Nuum wrote: ↑I can't find the thread where someone has done this, I believe it was over at Geekhack. Or maybe I'm completely wrong and noone has done this.
From what I remember this mod should make the keyboard more sturdy, with less flex in the PCB. Also it would get quite a bit heavier.
Sixty did it, not sure if there's a build log anywhere but there are some pics in the thread below.
Even as a Cherry G80 fan, when it comes down to it the only really great thing about G80 line is the nice doubleshots or dyesubs that came on those older models. Some of the vintage ones are quite nice and interesting like the 0*** models, but you already have refused those.
As far as adding in plates from MY underneath the PCB it is much more forgiving on 1800. It's possible on some of the mid period 3000 cases but still tough to get it back together. It's completely impossible to fit the case back together on current 3000 style cases. It's hard enough to get it back together properly without the numpad edge bowing with only what belongs inside there as it is. Adding dense foam rubber to the inside bottom of the case to fill in under the PCB and some additional feet strips around the bottom label can do a lot to help stop the bounce if you aren't a light touch.
The most solid feeling modern Cherry PCB mount board is by far the 11900. But, if you are really after a PCB mount board you might just go for one of kit board options or the Plum made one of Neo Zelia of Plum 96 instead and upgrade them to Cherry doubleshot or dyseub set if you like.
https://imgur.com/a/LyiGu
This might be of interest to someone. The cases are almost the same, only little differences (like the rubber padding under the controller in the g81 and the opening for the cable). Other than those slight differences (which might be due to the age of the g81) it's the same thing.
I dodn't have the time to finish the project atm and use the g80 in it's original state, since you can't just place the metal plate into the g80 case. Case won't close anymore with the PCB and plate inside without some adjustments, guess il cut/file away some plastic to make it fit.
For the long run i plan on building a custom case out of wood or plexiglass, i came up with an easy design...
Basically a bottom plate and a top plate with the cutouts for the keycaps, connected with threaded rods and 4 nuts per rod, 2 on the ourside and 2 loosely around the PCB, so the plates can be fixed between 2 nuts, without putting too much pressure on the PCB.
Spoiler:
something like this, where the o's stand for the nuts... I think it would look quite nice made from 0.5 - 1cm thick plexiglass. Would probably be pretty sturdy and another pro is, that you can use the threaded rods as adjustable feet for the whole thing.
It was a mispost on Tapatalk and meant for another thread. About trolling, hey I'm not the one that always debates about the etymology and word usage of ergonomic and right-handedness in every single mouse thread.
Just the other day I briefly used a cherry G80-3000, it didn't feel that great. I think it's a "newer" cherry keyboard and as they say they don't make them like they used to anymore
you might want to considder other options than Cherry, or Cherry vintage if solid build quality is that important to you. You are not making it simpler by focusing on cherry´s.
My Cherry G81-1000 HBD/13 is for sale soon!
This is a pretty good deal, I don´t know if you like tenkeyless, but you do get two Windows key´s:
I don't think there is a Keyboard from cherry that will fulfill all your desires. Only one would be the MX 3.0 but you don't like the flat caps. The best you could to is to actually get something from a different brand
