RC-1140 wrote:TBH I still don't get why one would want to open every damn switch instead of soldering other ones in. On Cherry Boards that's great, but the last time I opened a complicated ALPS it took me 5 minutes to reassemble it correctly. Soldering switches is faster imho.
Paranoid wrote:@hasu: I've tested them a little bit and I'm not quite sure what my impressions are. I would say when I use the grey contact plates it requires a tiny bit less force than when I use the white ones.
huttala wrote:I have done some desoldering with alps. It's easy, and I would not recommend you to open the switches up instead of desoldering. Getting the switches together again is a pain in the ass.
Paranoid wrote:hmm ok, guess I'll try it again later with some solderwick. I've got a desoldering pump but that didn't take all the soldering away.
Icarium wrote:They are doubleshot but I doubt that there will be much interest in them.
maxrunner wrote:whe soldering/desoldering i assume the iron should never touch the contact connectors of the pcb?
maxrunner wrote:Also what does this description mean:
"Tin the iron tip by applying some rosin core solder. Heat the connecting points(not the solder) and apply some solder to the heated parts".
Thats in the iron solder manual.Tin the iron is putting some solder on it right? But the second part im not following. What d they mean by heating the connection points?
maxrunner wrote:Also, Paranoid your desolder pump is equals to mine(from Salki) and on the paper it says "change tips simply by simply turning tips counter clock wise". What tip is this? The metal one inside?
maxrunner wrote:Very nice pics. I'm currently in the verge of swapping my type II/IV white alps Ortek MCK-84 to blue alps. But i'm new using soldering iron, any starting tips ? Do i need any extra caring regarding the switch pins?
maxrunner wrote:I think my problem is that my iron solder has a too sharp point.
It's this one, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7j5InYnp-xs.
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