PC decided to crash and burn. 1-2 weeks until I can fix. Not sure if CAD files are safe. Have old backup at home, not current design. FML

Using Phone btw.

Damn that sucks. Hope you didn't lose too much.

Getdataback has saved me in the past if its just the partition data.

i'm in 1 case for my Filco TKL .

Making the cad files goes quite fast once you have decided the design and how it is to be made etc. Do you still have the images and printscreens you took of it?

damorgue wrote:Making the cad files goes quite fast once you have decided the design and how it is to be made etc. Do you still have the images and printscreens you took of it?

Yes. I have the designs from when I stopped + photos on Imgur. But I cant do shit until I get it running again.

What do you need to get it running again?

longweight wrote:What do you need to get it running again?

Maybe his computer

Bad luck new SSD (with work), Good luck W7. Hoping W7 since it won't start after update.

Swede wrote:Bad luck new SSD (with work), Good luck W7. Hoping W7 since it won't start after update.

I don't understand?

That's pretty easy to test. Boot from your W7 disk and see if you can repair the installation. While you're in there you can also open a console and see if you can browse your hard drive. If you can, then Windows can probably repair it but even if it can't, you at least have a way to get your files off the drive. :thumbup:

gimpster wrote:That's pretty easy to test. Boot from your W7 disk and see if you can repair the installation. While you're in there you can also open a console and see if you can browse your hard drive. If you can, then Windows can probably repair it but even if it can't, you at least have a way to get your files off the drive. :thumbup:

Correct. But I have no access to a W7 disk. Need to go to my home at school to get it. I can find SSD when in Bios, but no guarantee that it works 100%.

Can you not download W7 image on another machine?

You could also just make a bootable disk/USB with FreeDOS (http://www.freedos.org) or a Linux LiveCD (like Ubuntu: http://www.ubuntu.com/download/desktop)

looks great.

i'm in for one!!

Any updates?

in depending on price... and when.

So now I got the PC running again. The SSD Failed, so had to wait for it to be returned to me.

Also I have had loads to do with school that have affected somewhat. Had to get the new students introduced (get extremely drunk) on the school. That lasted the entire last week, hopefully they dont remember some stuff

Also when I reinstalled windows I forgot about Solidworks, so had to fix a new licence from school. They have switched to the new 2012 version, but not gotten all the licences. Had to wait to get them...

Anyways, I'm getting started all over again since I lost everything in the crash. Now going to run tripple backups...
But the good stuff is that I have figured out how to mount the damn thing in the mill without it becoming a banana

Got the idea from how they do the emblem for the Pagani Huyara, quite basic really. Just mount it with screws, holes will be leftover and not used in the end, but it will be much easier to do than the last idea I had.

Will update now on Geekhack... Most must think I'm dead unless they have read this thread

Welcome back

Yeah welcome back.. from the dead? =P

Definitely interested, but I'd like to see photos of it before I buy.

I sat most of yesterday evening trying to get back to where I was before the crash. I must say it went a hell of a lot quicker than I thought... Having the basic measurments on the school laptop helped a lot



What you see here is how I will mount it in the Mill for the second pass. I will screw it down so that I can do the heavier milling. I can mill the 7bit without any problems with this mounting, I hope.

The holes that will be left won't be used, I don't think that is a problem since you can't see them. Only the 4 holes on the edges will be used when putting the case together.

Still have the bottom piece to make, and most of the measurments are gone from that. So having that finished will take a week or so when acounting for school.

It's looking very nice.

After working most of friday and saturday, I'm back to where I was before the crash, all top versions are done and bottom is done as well. Took some time to gather all the material I needed to finish the bottom, Inch to mm is a bitch, I think I have more to do in order to make it perfect... Feet are yet to be made, will do them when I get time. Honestly I have a hard time to figure out a nice design.

Will look into how I will manufacture the case now (the hard part, but it's fast). I like the design a hell of a lot better now, more efficient and much less waste. If all goes well I will talk to my teacher on tuesday, to see if I have made good choices or not.

Then it's on to coding, I will do this in CAM instead of doing it manually, much faster and better results in the end. I will not give a deadline on this as I'm far to optimistic on deadlines .

Winkey design

Normal design

7Bit design

Bottom

These are most likely the final designs, as mentioned above Feet are not yet made. Might redo the cablehole, but I'll do that if I see that it's a bad design when I try it out. Also you can opt to remove the LED holes as I've stated since the start.

The final weight will be about 900gram, will probably not feel like it can survive a nuke, but I hope it will be close

Three thoughts:
A) The holes in the corners seems to protrude the inner surface. That will cause the drill bits to break a lot.
B) Is there any reason in particular why the gaps for the teensy and cable are symmetric? I would also suggest you mill them closer to the nearby support to increase the radius if the bend the cable has to make.
C) How will the case be screwed together? I had assumed that the top piece will be threaded and that there will be a countersunk clearance hole from underneath the bottom piece?

Looks great so far.

2lbs for the case. I like it. it looks like you've left a bit of material in the bottom for extra weight, but I was wondering what the possibility is of having some milled out to allow for brass weights to be installed?

A) This is true, I will probably drill these holes after I face it so I avoid that.
B) It's to give room for the cable from the Filco case. It doesn't need to be that deep, but I do it so that it's symetrical.
C) It will be screwed together byt the 4 holes in the corners. And yes they will be countersunk. And now that you reminded me I need to add them

gimpster wrote:2lbs for the case. I like it. it looks like you've left a bit of material in the bottom for extra weight, but I was wondering what the possibility is of having some milled out to allow for brass weights to be installed?

I planned to make 2 cases with brass inserts, one for me and one randomly given out to a buyer.

It's not a lot of room to mill out a space for the insert in this design. On average it's about 2mm of space to make room for it, and then I have about 1mm of alu left to make the bottom.

Might be possible to do a brass insert that goes through the bottom.

Np
Have you checked out possibilities for anodizing yet? I am going to assume that we all need to pick the same colour. Should we begin to vote on that, cause it might take some time to agree upon one, or perhaps two. Poll?

Swede wrote:A) This is true, I will probably drill these holes after I face it so I avoid that.

Or you could increase the radii of the inner corners, unless it is really tight to the PCB. This allows for a larger mill bit as well, making it faster and cheaper too.

Swede wrote:Might be possible to do a brass insert that goes through the bottom.

That would be cool. I think that's the way the 356 Mini was designed.