PS. postal service is Deutsche Post and DHL

mintberryminuscrunch wrote:@off: not sure if I can send you 2 entire ones
sorry for missing your post

Np on the ss.
re 2: Ouch.
Well, lemme know.
Dropping the interest in the blues though, never even tried 'em and already have 7-bit incoming with testers.
ot: How are you liking the board so far?

Can't wait for this freakin board to come, it's been in Hamburg for 4 days now, Germans really need to learn how to work!

Friday and Monday were public holidays.. expect it to be quicker from now on

mintberryminuscrunch wrote:

How are you liking the board so far?

Not using one of them, i will probably just sell mine or use them for the springs.

well it's cheap enough, that's true; still a bit perplexing to hear after you organising the buy

I'm using the g80-5000 for now.
only keyboard that might get me away from it, could be the Phantom

fffffuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu

Sorry it took me long for paying!

mintberryminuscrunch wrote:Friday and Monday were public holidays.. expect it to be quicker from now on

Hehe yeah, I was kinda joking..
But the package is still in hamburg, so this time I mean it, freakin Germans!

woody wrote:

Lustique wrote:Does anybody here know whether it is possible to add a "scroll functionality" to a normal trackball that works like the scrolling you can do with a Kensington SlimBlade (http://youtu.be/X8zrGsp4i0I#t=1m15s) using AutoHotkey, or is this a hardware feature and thus not reproduceable?

Hardware feature.

Well, that's unfortunate.

off wrote:

Lustique wrote: the scrolling you can do with a Kensington SlimBlade (http://youtu.be/X8zrGsp4i0I#t=1m15s)

Slick!
And normally I would say there are very little purely hardware features, most are realised through software/firmware; and this logiball seems not to even have bearings but neither rollers to make this motion impossible, but I don't see you reprogramming the controller either- and good luck reading the ball twist motion from windows; can't help you there.
TLDR; iz not possibul!

And re that tripleshot semi-rubberdome cap... When is the MO coming up (cherrystemmed ofc)?

Well, I don't even know how good this even works on a SlimBlade, so maybe it's not even desirable.

you could macro a key to act as middle mouse button click
which would result in scrolling in most browsers (in ms windows)

Got mine today, thanks MBMC!

mintberryminuscrunch wrote:you could macro a key to act as middle mouse button click
which would result in scrolling in most browsers (in ms windows)

Funny thing, I always found that an annoying way of scrolling (seeing that how far you move your mouse from the starting point sets the speed of scrolling, then you have to return to that point to stop; or middleclick again (and probably overshoot your target)), yet always had it as backup if a window didn't want to show sideways scrollbars; but somehow the function has disappeared on my pc xD.
If it does work though, it might actually be decent with a trackball; at least you'll have scroll that is not pgup/pgdn.

Got mine today as well. Thank you Mintberryminuscrunch for organizing this group buy!

These are some great keyboards. The trackballs are good too, especially compared to the old mechanical Logitech Trackman Vista I used on my first computer. But you can definitely feel that these switches are used. The home row has a lighter tactile point than the function keys. But the switch under the spacebar really is too stiff. It feels rather like a clear switch than like a stiff brown one. More of a tactile bump.

These keyboards are much harder to clean than your ordinary Cherry Corp keyboard though. The Trackball unit has a copper shielding beneath, which is soldered to the PCB. I desoldered it to make cleaning easier. In order to clean the lower part of the housing one has to remove the trackball unit, then unscrew the controller, and then remove the shielding.

But when they are clean these boards are fantastic. The Keycaps are nice as well, I didn't expect to receive thick lasered PBT caps on this board.

Now I only need to find a way to emulate a scroll wheel under Linux. Preferably using a key and the trackball. Does anyone know a way?

i got my boards yesterday.

Thank you very much mintberryminuscrunch for this groupbuy and your work with it!

I got mine today, works just fine, thanks a lot mintberryminuscrunch!

Browns are a lot stiffer then I remembered tho, I'm uset to my green alps now and these switches was a lot different (in a good way).

I got mine the day before yesterday, as well. Thanks again! I'm already cleaning/drying it.

RC-1140 wrote:[...]These keyboards are much harder to clean than your ordinary Cherry Corp keyboard though. The Trackball unit has a copper shielding beneath, which is soldered to the PCB. I desoldered it to make cleaning easier. In order to clean the lower part of the housing one has to remove the trackball unit, then unscrew the controller, and then remove the shielding.[...]

Yeah, stupid fucking copper shielding. I almost ripped the whole thing off when I tried to remove the PCB with the trackball (did not notice the stupid ass shielding). The part where the shielding is soldered to the PCB is almost torn, just some 2 mm (from ca. 6 mm) copper are still intact and provide the connection. I plan to move the ripped area together and then fix it with some aluminium foil tape. I hope I don't rip it off during reassembly...


By the way:

• Does anybody know in which way you have to plug the cable into the trackball (the cable with the black plug)? It seems that it is possible both ways. (I plugged it off, because I wanted to get the PCB out of the case more easily... )
• Where does the plastic sheet under the trackball go? Between copper shield and case, or between copper shield and trackball?

Mine have arrived today (UK) thanks so much bud really appriciate the effort

May try browns in my work board now, never mind ghetto reds

Lustique wrote:By the way:

• Does anybody know in which way you have to plug the cable into the trackball (the cable with the black plug)? It seems that it is possible both ways. (I plugged it off, because I wanted to get the PCB out of the case more easily... )
• Where does the plastic sheet under the trackball go? Between copper shield and case, or between copper shield and trackball?

Did you disregard the most important part in disassembling a piece of hardware? Always look before you take it apart

I can't provide any definite instructions on the plug direction, but I remember looking at the plug and the PCB, and discovering, that the not connected pins on the plug lead into nowhere on the PCB. Just follow the traces and you will probably see it. If I remember correctly the not connected Pins were at the top though, but I'm not exactly sure.

And the plastic sheet belongs between the shielding and the Trackball, and the other plastic sheet belongs between the two controller boards.

RC-1140 wrote:

Lustique wrote:By the way:

• Does anybody know in which way you have to plug the cable into the trackball (the cable with the black plug)? It seems that it is possible both ways. (I plugged it off, because I wanted to get the PCB out of the case more easily... )
• Where does the plastic sheet under the trackball go? Between copper shield and case, or between copper shield and trackball?

Did you disregard the most important part in disassembling a piece of hardware? Always look before you take it apart

I can't provide any definite instructions on the plug direction, but I remember looking at the plug and the PCB, and discovering, that the not connected pins on the plug lead into nowhere on the PCB. Just follow the traces and you will probably see it. If I remember correctly the not connected Pins were at the top though, but I'm not exactly sure.

And the plastic sheet belongs between the shielding and the Trackball, and the other plastic sheet belongs between the two controller boards.

Well, I did take some pictures, but when I took out the trackball unit, I pulled the copper shielding out like a slice of cheese out of a sandwich (it was and is pretty mangled; not really smooth any more), more or less, so I did not even see that there was a plastic sheet, until I took the lower part of the case with me for cleaning. But the plug thing really was stupid. I just thought that it would be a plug you can only plug in one way, like all the plugs in relation to modern motherboards. At first I was surprised by all the screws as well. I expected it to fall apart as the other Cherry boards I previously cleaned, which did not involve any kind of screws. Do you know what the copper shielding is actually for? Frankly, it looks like it serves no purpose other than being a predetermined breaking point.

After a few hours of writing I have to say that I love the board. It's pretty damn solid for the price we paid.

However, to make this board my daily drive I have to make it tenkeyless, I really hate when the boards are to wide, I want the mouse as close to the board as possible. So... Does anyone have an idea if this would be hard to do? Or is it just to cut out the tenkey(and mouse) section and then plug in the board? I'm thinking of the controller and how it will react to the mouse and tenkey being gone.

AFAIK, no problem at all. Just a bit of effort to make the case look good (flashes of a certain GH-avatar go through my mind).

Nice one guys have one myself although my one was NIB . I like the fact that the keys are kind of low profile. This did kind of throw a spanner in the works putting o rings on it and using it in work as the key travel was then far too short but meh. Putting o rings just on the modifiers works wonders IMHO.

I also dont know why you would bother making it tenkeyless its not as wide as a standard AT layout keybord to start with and you lose the cool trackball that i must say i use more often than i expected its not great but its fine for a quick move of the mouse every now and again

btw. all are shipped, besides the one that is waiting for its rgb set

Yes, that would be mine, I guess?

Yes it's yours

Yay, both have arrived in seemingly good condition; at least one is near mint and functional. TYVM MB-C!
There was some fuuuunky near-fungus like stuff going on at the small dots the ball rests on, but cleaned that and all is well. ah, also the cableguard inside the case (just a single plastic pole) was broken, but removed that and put a cabletie on the cable on the inside of the case.
On the MX11800; the creakiest plastic I've ever heard, scared me a bit
On Browns / first MX's.. absolutely not what I expected. Are way closer to both Black Alps and MY's than I'd thought; but way different at the same time. Stiff spacebar (not brown). Will probably drop doubleshots on this board later tonight to see how that feels (off of the MY board onto a better home), and browns will at least get a lot more time to grow on me. One more thing on browns, I really don't see how people can claim they don't feel the tactile point unless they've been typing on BS since birth; although the 'k' has a lot less tactility than 'd', curious what's the story behind that, used by a very upfront guy I presume
Oh the trackball, I was prepared for it to suck (then butcher it), but it's quite nice (though low dpi)!