Maaaan, those full mounted keys look nice now when they are cut properly. D'oh

Just got mine today! (Round 1) Everything looks good, especially the laser-cut switches. I now understand why some people like Topre so much. Those alps feel really nice for some reason.
Love the little extras you've included. Cheers!

EDIT by Mrinterface : JaccoW -> I moved your post to the proper thread

Very nice, thanks!

Mrinterface wrote:All participants in Round 1 : please write a little story about the switches in this thread.

once uppon a time, a keyboard fan named Mr. Interface posted a review of a Topre keyboard on youtube. Ever since then the world has changed, as the benefit of this typing experience became apparent. Not yet satisfied with the result, he began to spread actual keyboard parts into the world by providing a sampling bag: only the best mechanical switches are aloud in here. it would normally require years of work to obtain some of these rare switches, but he has them gathered, to provide us all an opportunity to see what it's about.

Not only that, but he included a custom manufactured Topre and IBM keytester, which is perfect for witnessing the switching power of these devices. The gates have just been opened, and the good's have been released into the wild. Anticipation awaits until people recieve then. Then they can judge themselves about the switches and know where to go from here to unleash the ultimate typing experience. we are gratefull for his work.

This bag looks awesome - can't wait to get mine!

THE CAT \o/

The first thing I noticed is that all other clicky switches don't have the problem the MX Blue has - no dead zone where it doesn't click.

dead zone?

Icarium wrote:dead zone?

Collecting keyboards is a dangerous hobby!

The hysteresis problem!

*plays with switch*
The what? where? how?

The dangling leaf!

Just keep it slightly pressed around activation point and bottom out and release around that point a couple of times. No clicks. The worst thing is, sometimes it does activate.

is that actually a problem though? according to this: http://amarsagoo.blogspot.com.au/2008/05/science-of-keyboard-design.html, we want hysteresis.

nice story cinch.

possum wrote:is that actually a problem though? according to this: http://amarsagoo.blogspot.com.au/2008/05/science-of-keyboard-design.html, we want hysteresis.

nice story cinch.

Double tapping and quick moves naturally suffer

Ahh, cant wait to get the bag! Would be a great way to introduce friends to mechanical switches.

Hm...okay so disassembly instructions for some of the rarer keys would be nice. I'm especially talking about the acer ones. I can't see how they are actually hooked up but I don't want to break them when trying to take them apart either.

Second, has anybody figured out a way to mount the F switch?

And the last thing I noticed was that them M switch feels weird and that the lever only moves very little and that it's a curved housing mounted to a flat surface. Are you sure it feels correct?

Unfortunately, I won't get my hands on this bag before going on vacation tomorrow!

Mrinterface wrote:Dampeners :
Firm
Soft
50 A
40 A

are those the ones from WASD and elitekeyboards?

Would love to be added to the purchasers list.

Full bag, standard everything, shipped to US of A.

Am currently at a limited internet location. Will answer everybodies questions in 2 weeks!:-)

I got mine this morning. Very nice. Would be interesting to mount them onto a board to feel the difference.

Got mine too- I second the earlier suggestion of having a chart with names.

My Model F buckling spring doesn't seem to work though. The spring and everything got here okay. Is the Model F cap supposed to be able to rotate within the cylinder, because it seems to be too small and it won't buckle the spring.

I wish I had gotten the mounted ones. The pre-cut acrylic glass looks very professional

damorgue wrote:Got mine too- I second the earlier suggestion of having a chart with names.

My Model F buckling spring doesn't seem to work though. The spring and everything got here okay. Is the Model F cap supposed to be able to rotate within the cylinder, because it seems to be too small and it won't buckle the spring.

I wish I had gotten the mounted ones. The pre-cut acrylic glass looks very professional

The orientation of the cap is important. It won't work if you insert it in the wrong orientation. I'm currently unable to help since I am in another country .... When I get back I'll solve everybodies questions/problems...

got mine today, thanks!

Firstly, thanks Mr Interface!!



My favourites (all strongly tactile) original clears, black clicky alps, white clicky alps.

What are the two other white switches (shown above the others)? Ergo clears and MX White?

My only question is: what good black clicky alps boards are there and where can I find one? Blues suck compared to this awesomeness!!

edit: Oh the two blue alps ones are awesome too (clicky blue and monterey), why are alps so much more snappier than cherry MX? Can't understand why Cherry didn't do stuff like that tbh, very impressive feeling

hamza_tm wrote:What are the two other white switches (shown above the others)? Ergo clears and MX White?

The one with the truly white stem (x,y = 6,2 in OP picture), a miniscule additional pin on its stem and no PCB mounting pins is a MX White (new style). The other one (x,y = 3,1) is kinda mysterious. Looks like a Cherry knockoff to me.

Edit: ah, the other one is a "fake white clicky chicony MX" as mrinterface calls it.

Papa's got a brand new bag! Got mine yesterday. Brief thoughts:
Thanks to Mr. Interface!
Futaba switch is quite funky!
Nice curiosity those vintage Cherries
I was expecting the Topre switch to maybe change my mind but, well, I still don't like the rubbery feel of the Topre
That's it for now.

codehead wrote:I was expecting the Topre switch to maybe change my mind but, well, I still don't like the rubbery feel of the Topre

be glad, your wallet with thank you many times

Fantastic, thanks cinch!