Then get someone to knock you one together in 10 mins
With integrated macbook stand.
Have a monitor without a stand ?
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- Location: UK
- Main keyboard: Filco ZERO green alps, Model F 122 Terminal
- Main mouse: Ducky Secret / Roller Mouse Pro 1
- Favorite switch: MX Mount Topre / Model F Buckling
- DT Pro Member: 0167
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- bhtooefr
- Location: Newark, OH, USA
- Main keyboard: TEX Shinobi
- Main mouse: TrackPoint IV
- Favorite switch: IBM Selectric (not a switch, I know)
- DT Pro Member: 0056
- Contact:
That said, I'm using a $23 Monoprice arm with my 20" IPS LCD, and it works fine...
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- Location: UK
- Main keyboard: Filco ZERO green alps, Model F 122 Terminal
- Main mouse: Ducky Secret / Roller Mouse Pro 1
- Favorite switch: MX Mount Topre / Model F Buckling
- DT Pro Member: 0167
i will 3d print something to screw on there at some point for now the screw will doMuirium wrote: ↑Keep the Mac the hell away from that nail!!
- Mal-2
- Location: Los Angeles, CA
- Main keyboard: Cherry G86-61400
- Main mouse: Generic 6-button "gaming mouse"
- Favorite switch: Probably buckling spring, but love them Blues too
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
I bought something similar. On mine the arms are level, not stair-stepped upward, but functionally it's the same. It really was a nice move. For one thing, I mounted the monitors much higher than they were before, so they aren't leaning back. They're vertical, and that's nice when dealing with TN displays. This higher mounting means they also clear quite a lot of desk space beneath them which can be put to productive use. Here's my setup:
As a bonus, I was able to use one of the newly freed-up stands on a TV that was previously wall-mounted and the original stand misplaced.
One bit of warning though -- if you set up the monitors even a little bit asymmetrically, the entire stand will lean slightly to one side. Then you either have un-level monitors, or level monitors at slightly different heights. Also, the rotation hinges don't lock, so bumping a monitor often means having to re-level it. My fix for that was to tape them together with electrical tape on the bezel. This also keeps light from sneaking in between them from behind.