That's it!0100010 wrote: ↑Maybe? http://www.homedepot.com/p/General-Tool ... /100200416
Model F key failure
- Redmaus
- Gotta start somewhere
- Location: Near Dallas, Texas
- Main keyboard: Unsaver | 3276 | Kingsaver
- Main mouse: Kensington Slimblade
- Favorite switch: Capacitative Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
- fohat
- Elder Messenger
- Location: Knoxville, Tennessee, USA
- Main keyboard: Model F 122-key terminal
- Main mouse: Microsoft Optical Mouse
- Favorite switch: Model F Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0158
I used an antique 5/8" leather punch that I bought on ebay.
The barrels are 1/2" diameter, and I allowed the extra crescent of the cut to be diagonally down to the right to accommodate the "buttress" alignment tabs as found on the AT and 122-key styles.
The XT style has a small thin separate post directly at the bottom, and I have not cut one of those mats yet.
The barrels are 1/2" diameter, and I allowed the extra crescent of the cut to be diagonally down to the right to accommodate the "buttress" alignment tabs as found on the AT and 122-key styles.
The XT style has a small thin separate post directly at the bottom, and I have not cut one of those mats yet.
- Attachments
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- F-122-H04-pad-cut-new-004.JPG (213.47 KiB) Viewed 2648 times
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- F-122-H03-pad-cut-new-003.JPG (277.65 KiB) Viewed 2648 times
- vivalarevolución
- formerly prdlm2009
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: IBM Beam spring
- Main mouse: Kangaroo
- Favorite switch: beam spring
- DT Pro Member: 0097
A few things:
I was going to mention that your malfunctioning key might be the result of moisture or a sticky residue on the hammer or PCB, but you figured that out.
I don't recommend those grommet things. I would recommend at least a 1/2 inch hole size. You can find the proper sized hole punch if you look around online a bit: http://www.mcmaster.com/#hole-forming-punches/=ww2xpp
With the small post on the XT, I just cut the big hole for the barrels and then let the small post form its own hole in the foam.
That automotive headliner seems interesting, I might have to try that.
I was going to mention that your malfunctioning key might be the result of moisture or a sticky residue on the hammer or PCB, but you figured that out.
I don't recommend those grommet things. I would recommend at least a 1/2 inch hole size. You can find the proper sized hole punch if you look around online a bit: http://www.mcmaster.com/#hole-forming-punches/=ww2xpp
With the small post on the XT, I just cut the big hole for the barrels and then let the small post form its own hole in the foam.
That automotive headliner seems interesting, I might have to try that.
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- Location: Reno, NV
- Main keyboard: IBM Mod F AT
- Main mouse: Logitech M570
- Favorite switch: Mod F capacitive
- DT Pro Member: -
How did you mark the foam for cutting? It looks as if you attached the foam to the upper plate and then used spray paint...fohat wrote: ↑I used an antique 5/8" leather punch that I bought on ebay.
The barrels are 1/2" diameter, and I allowed the extra crescent of the cut to be diagonally down to the right to accommodate the "buttress" alignment tabs as found on the AT and 122-key styles.
- Touch_It
- Location: Nebraska, United States.
- Main keyboard: Unicomp Classic USB 103 key (work) IBM F 4704 107
- Main mouse: Logitech g502 Proteus Core
- Favorite switch: Buckling spring (yet to try Beam Spring)
- DT Pro Member: -
I think a lot of people attach the foam to the back of the top metal plate and spray paint it. If you need to refinish it of course. If not I imagine the original foam would work as well if it is in decent enough shape. If not I think someone made paper templates for most Model F keyboards, for this purpose as well.
- vivalarevolución
- formerly prdlm2009
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: IBM Beam spring
- Main mouse: Kangaroo
- Favorite switch: beam spring
- DT Pro Member: 0097
Spray painting is one method. Another is finding the PDF files of the metal plates floating around this website that wcass created and taping those to the foam to punch the foam. I found that method to be more accurate.dramsey wrote: ↑How did you mark the foam for cutting? It looks as if you attached the foam to the upper plate and then used spray paint...fohat wrote: ↑I used an antique 5/8" leather punch that I bought on ebay.
The barrels are 1/2" diameter, and I allowed the extra crescent of the cut to be diagonally down to the right to accommodate the "buttress" alignment tabs as found on the AT and 122-key styles.
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- Location: Reno, NV
- Main keyboard: IBM Mod F AT
- Main mouse: Logitech M570
- Favorite switch: Mod F capacitive
- DT Pro Member: -
Hm. A quick look through the Wiki and the Photos section didn't turn anything up. Any idea where I should look?prdlm2009 wrote: ↑Spray painting is one method. Another is finding the PDF files of the metal plates floating around this website that wcass created and taping those to the foam to punch the foam. I found that method to be more accurate.
- 0100010
- Location: DFW TX, US
- Main keyboard: IBM 4704 107
- Main mouse: Trackman FX
- Favorite switch: Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
wcass' post in this thread : http://deskthority.net/keyboards-f2/rep ... 33-90.html
- vivalarevolución
- formerly prdlm2009
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: IBM Beam spring
- Main mouse: Kangaroo
- Favorite switch: beam spring
- DT Pro Member: 0097
I know that wcass has also shared similar PDFs for the AT, XT, XTant, and Kishsaver, but I'm also not sure where to locate those. I might have them saved on my desktop somewhere. His Github page might have them as well.
- XMIT
- [ XMIT ]
- Location: Austin, TX area
- Main keyboard: XMIT Hall Effect
- Main mouse: CST L-Trac Trackball
- Favorite switch: XMIT 60g Tactile Hall Effect
- DT Pro Member: 0093
I'm looking for a template for an F107. I've sent wcass a PM about this. If he doesnt have one I may draw one up myself. Should be easy to do in Inkscape.
- Touch_It
- Location: Nebraska, United States.
- Main keyboard: Unicomp Classic USB 103 key (work) IBM F 4704 107
- Main mouse: Logitech g502 Proteus Core
- Favorite switch: Buckling spring (yet to try Beam Spring)
- DT Pro Member: -
I also looked for one, but never found one. I would be interested in one. Need to add/replace the foam in mine. Fwiw I used the spray paint method and it worked well enough
- chzel
- Location: Athens, Greece
- Main keyboard: Phantom
- Main mouse: Mionix Avior 7000
- Favorite switch: Beamspring, BS, Vintage Blacks.
- DT Pro Member: 0086
Did you try to contact orihalcon? He has restored a few F107s so he might have a template.XMIT wrote: ↑I'm looking for a template for an F107. I've sent wcass a PM about this. If he doesnt have one I may draw one up myself. Should be easy to do in Inkscape.
- XMIT
- [ XMIT ]
- Location: Austin, TX area
- Main keyboard: XMIT Hall Effect
- Main mouse: CST L-Trac Trackball
- Favorite switch: XMIT 60g Tactile Hall Effect
- DT Pro Member: 0093
Turns out the F107 and F122 template are interchangeable. I think the F122 template is here already, or I can maybe share the one orihalcon shared with me via PM. Thanks for the suggestion chzel!
I have some leather punches on order that should be here tomorrow.
I have some leather punches on order that should be here tomorrow.
- 0100010
- Location: DFW TX, US
- Main keyboard: IBM 4704 107
- Main mouse: Trackman FX
- Favorite switch: Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
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- DT Pro Member: -
I think there was a thread about different types of foam mats, with links to various templates here (pages 2, 4&5). I had a go at using 3mm closed cell neoprene, which worked, but involved more clamps and hammers than ideal. 2mm would probably have involved less effort, and less revenge from the keyboard when I dropped the whole clamped assembly edge first on to my foot.