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What Solder Station to get?

Posted: 28 Jul 2015, 05:38
by Redmaus
I have been needing one for quite a while. All I have been using is an old plug and use one without and voltage settings and the tip is messed up and everything.

Vacuum desoldering pump would be GREAT since my thumb press and release one is tiring after extended use and does not work well for intricate electronics.

I have heard Hakko is good and my budget is around 200$.

Thanks for the help yall :mrgreen:

Re: What Solder Station to get?

Posted: 28 Jul 2015, 07:57
by bazhvn
I'd go with Goot, PX-501 or 601 I cant remember, but they're from Japan too, Hakko is just everywhere and besides Goot's PX is all in white, which is cool.

Re: What Solder Station to get?

Posted: 28 Jul 2015, 08:04
by bazh
Oh shit, stupid Tapatalk, automatically create a new account and shit

Posted: 28 Jul 2015, 15:23
by Redmaus
bazh wrote: Oh shit, stupid Tapatalk, automatically create a new account and shit
What? :?
bazhvn wrote: I'd go with Goot, PX-501 or 601 I cant remember, but they're from Japan too, Hakko is just everywhere and besides Goot's PX is all in white, which is cool.
Got it, I'll check that out in a minute.

Posted: 28 Jul 2015, 15:50
by Parak
Getting a proper* desoldering station for under $200 is fairly difficult second hand, especially when combined with good soldering. New is pretty much impossible. If you just want a soldering iron, getting one used for around $100 is possible, however. For example:

The handpiece +
the station itself +
how to control the temperature on it +
some tips = win.

TD100 is my favorite handpiece, only rivaled by the JBC ones.

* My parameters for proper mean something from Pace, Metcal, JBC, etc.

Posted: 28 Jul 2015, 17:14
by andrewjoy
its all about the tips , even if you get a clone get genuine tips .

And dont use lead free solder , its crap.

Posted: 28 Jul 2015, 17:50
by Muirium
The fumes don't do nuthin' for me. Moar led!

Posted: 28 Jul 2015, 18:04
by Redmaus
Any leads on a good full desoldering station? The new hakko one is like 500$...

Posted: 28 Jul 2015, 18:38
by Parak
I actually have this thingy with both soldering and desoldering handpieces and tips for both. I no longer need it and would sell off, but I suspect that I couldn't do it for the price point that you're aiming at :(

Posted: 28 Jul 2015, 19:04
by Redmaus
Parak wrote: I actually have this thingy with both soldering and desoldering handpieces and tips for both. I no longer need it and would sell off, but I suspect that I couldn't do it for the price point that you're aiming at :(
What price? Maybe we could work something out.

BTW I looked at your other pics and nice collection man. 8-)

Posted: 28 Jul 2015, 21:59
by Parak
Redmaus wrote:
Parak wrote: I actually have this thingy with both soldering and desoldering handpieces and tips for both. I no longer need it and would sell off, but I suspect that I couldn't do it for the price point that you're aiming at :(
What price? Maybe we could work something out.

BTW I looked at your other pics and nice collection man. 8-)
I'll PM you about it sometime tonight once I get home :D

Posted: 28 Jul 2015, 22:35
by Muirium
Got a suggestion for the US based software engineer who would like to warm up his hardware skills again, and rather buy new and buy once? My brother's a snob too, you see. Although the higher the price, the more convincing he'll take. I could use a good lab when I'm over his place again…

Posted: 28 Jul 2015, 22:49
by chzel
No suggestions until the Unicomp stuff is shipped!
Anything from Hakko, Weller, Antex, JBC should be more than fine. No need to go overboard, esp. for non-professional use.
I have a "Solder Peak SP-60D" station I got from TME and it's perfect for the tasks it faces.

Posted: 28 Jul 2015, 23:20
by Muirium
Cool. Specific suggestions are best, because I'm ignorant about this stuff and could really use some experience on a quality iron to learn any better!

My return luggage after the holidays will be made of Unicomp caps…

Posted: 28 Jul 2015, 23:45
by Redmaus
Yeah the problem is getting a desolder station too. That would save me LOADS of time.

Posted: 29 Jul 2015, 06:15
by bazh
andrewjoy wrote: its all about the tips , even if you get a clone get genuine tips .

And dont use lead free solder , its crap.
Yep, lead-free's hard to work with and leaves ugly solder point. I prefer the 62 solder from Kester, they're beautiful with 2% silver inside, love them.

Posted: 29 Jul 2015, 11:03
by andrewjoy
i have always wondered why they add 2% silver. I cannot say how good it is as i have never tired it.

I always go for this one

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Solder-60-Hi-Ac ... sin+solder

Works wonders.

I have a hakko 936 clone , its one of the nicer ones as i took it apart to check for safety! With genuine tips its good enough or home use.

Posted: 29 Jul 2015, 11:08
by 002
Might have something to do with silver being a noble metal? Could also be because silver has good thermal properties which is why it's sometimes used for thermal pastes and compounds for CPU/GPU heatsinks?

Posted: 29 Jul 2015, 17:39
by Parak
I believe that the original purpose of electronics solder containing a small amount of silver was that it increases intermetallic strength when soldering silver containing parts, due to being able to better dissolve their contact points.