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Noob question.

Posted: 10 May 2015, 15:41
by Jonnyswboy
I have a Das Keyboard 4 Professional clicky and the two of the switches don't seem to click like the others. Is that fixable? Do I need a new keyswitch? Also my spacebar feels like it has a much higher actuation force than the other keys, is that due to the wire guides? Can I loosten them or something? If not can I put a brown spring in the blue switch to lower the force?

Sorry for so many questions, I'm new to mechanical keyboards.

Thanks!

Posted: 10 May 2015, 15:55
by amospalla
You can try to clean with hydrogen peroxide the inner part of the switch, that is how I restored an old keyboard with MX blue with ots of non-clicky keys. You need to remove the keycaps and then remove the cap of the switch.

Regarding the spacebar it may have a stiffier spring than the rest of the keys. If that is the case you could change it for another one on the same keyboard (ie, a key you almost never use), or buy a new spring.

Posted: 10 May 2015, 16:05
by Jonnyswboy
amospalla wrote: You can try to clean with hydrogen peroxide the inner part of the switch, that is how I restored an old keyboard with MX blue with ots of non-clicky keys. You need to remove the keycaps and then remove the cap of the switch.

Regarding the spacebar it may have a stiffier spring than the rest of the keys. If that is the case you could change it for another one on the same keyboard (ie, a key you almost never use), or buy a new spring.
Thank you for the help. Should I use a Q-tip? How much peroxide should I use? Does it need to be bone dry when I put the switch back together?

Posted: 10 May 2015, 16:39
by chzel
Why peroxide??? It is an oxidizer.
IPA (isopropylic alcohol) is much better, and yes the switch should be dry before reassembly.

Posted: 10 May 2015, 16:44
by Jonnyswboy
chzel wrote: Why peroxide??? It is an oxidizer.
IPA (isopropylic alcohol) is much better, and yes the switch should be dry before reassembly.
Thanks. Good thing I'm not home yet to do anything. Also I heard mashing the bad keys a few hundred times can fix it.

Posted: 10 May 2015, 17:27
by Chyros
Do not use hydrogen peroxide to clean electronics. In fact, I'd recommend not using it to clean anything.

Like Chzel said, use IPA, much better. Also dries much faster. If there's dust in the mechanism, blow it out with compressed air.

Posted: 10 May 2015, 20:18
by Jonnyswboy
Okay, so I took of the spacebar key and found it used Cherry dummy switches I think?
Pic:

Image

Is this the cause of the mushiness/high actuation force? I heard Costar stabilizers are better. Is that just how Cherry stabilizers are, or can I just lube it or something?

Posted: 10 May 2015, 20:20
by scottc
Those are just Cherry stabilisers. Not sure how to mode them in a plate-mounted board.

Posted: 10 May 2015, 20:26
by chzel
Cherry stabilizers have two little "prongs" on the underside that work as sprung legs and dampen the bottom out.
If you take out the stabilizer and cut the prongs it gets much better IMHO. Note that to remove the stabilizer you need to desolder the switch.
A tiny bit of thin lube might also help, but I have never found it necessary.

Posted: 10 May 2015, 21:06
by Findecanor
That is a matter of personal taste. I don't bottom out or use O-rings, so I don't bottom out hard anyway.

I have recently use hydrogen peroxide to rust steel quickly.

Posted: 10 May 2015, 21:53
by amospalla
Leason learnt about peroxide :roll:

Re: Noob question.

Posted: 16 May 2015, 18:06
by F0lie
If you want to rust your springs, use peroxide.

Anyway, for the noobs, there are two kinds of stabilizers. Cherry, which is the one here, is a wire stabilizer with a "dummy" stem attached so you can easily remove and attach keys. The wire goes under the plate.

The other kind is Costar where there is no "dummy" stem. The wire directly attaches to the keycap. The wire is entirely visible from the plate. They are a bit harder than cherry to remove but all you need to do is to use a screwdrivers or stick to push the wrote to the side so you can lift the keycap. Really is not that hard as long you do the right technique.

There are differences between the two but honestly I wouldn't be too concerned with them other than a little lithium grease at the hinge.

Posted: 16 May 2015, 18:22
by Muirium
No one mentioned the metal plate that keeps all the switches closed yet.

Image

Posted: 16 May 2015, 18:33
by chzel
Oh c'mon...you have to desolder just two pins!!