Kul ES-87 with Cherry mx Clears -- Review and Comparisons

User avatar
Hypersphere

27 Sep 2014, 21:48

This review has also been posted on Geekhack (GH):

http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=63305.0

Recently, I bought a new Kul ES-87 with Cherry mx clear switches. This board has been available for some time, and a number of reviews are already available. Therefore, this post is not intended to be a thorough review with keyboard pictures, but rather a collection of my impressions about the keyboard and Cherry mx clear switches, including some comparisons with other Cherry mx switches as well as Topre and IBM buckling springs (complete with an inspection of force-displacement curves).

Thus far, the Kul has been available only with mx linear switches (red or black) or tactile switches (brown or clear), but not tactile/clicky switches (blue or green). I had previously tried other boards with black, brown, blue, and green switches, and I had not really liked any of them. Accordingly, I ordered the Kul with clears to try out this new board with a switch that was also new to me.

Kul keyboards are a available through several sources, including Elitekeyboards.com (EK), Mechanicalkeyboards.com (MK), and Amazon. The price is reasonable at 129 USD, and MK and Amazon (Amazon Prime) offer free shipping.

The keyboard is attractively packaged in a sturdy box that includes the keyboard, detachable mini-USB cable, keycap puller, extra keycaps for swapping CapsLock/Control, Escape/Backtick, and Backspace/Backslash, a plastic keyboard cover molded to fit over the keycaps, and a manual written in English.

The keyboard itself is a standard TKL design housed in a sturdy matte black case with no flex or creaking even when pressing down hard anywhere on the top panel. It is equipped with non-skid rubber pads on the bottom front and rear of the case, rubberized feet that lock into position with a reassuring solid snap, a mini-USB connector in a recessed area underneath the keyboard, cable management channels for directing the cable to the left, right, or center, and 8 DIP switches. It has a CapsLock feature with a CapsLock LED, and an LED under the Escape key to indicate Windows Power Mode, but it lacks an embedded numeric keypad and so it has no NumLock LED. The switches on my board were Cherry mx clear, and Kul keyboards use Cherry stabilizers. A nice touch that I didn't notice right away is that the bottom of the case has a beveled front edge with its own set of rubberized grip pads, presumably to provide better traction when the feet are extended -- the only other keyboard I know about that has this feature is the RF 87u series.

Although many people like detachable cable connectors in a recessed area with cable management channels, I find it difficult to connect and disconnect the cable from such an arrangement. I prefer to have a connector on the back of the case, as it is often found on sub-TKL keyboards. In fact, I like to have the connector on the left rear of the keyboard (near the Escape key) or the center rear, and rather than being disappointed if the manufacturer decided to put the connector on the right rear of the case, I suppose it is good to have the cable routing channels.

One reason I bought this keyboard is that the abundance of DIP switches (8 of them) provides some handy hardware customizations that I would otherwise have to remap using software. These include the following: (1) Windows/OS X mode; (2) Left Control/CapsLock; (3) Escape/Backtick; (4) Backspace/Backslash; (5) Shift+Fn+Menu/Fn=Menu; Shift+Fn=Fn; (6) 125Hz polling/1000Hz polling; (7) 6-key rollover/N-key rollover; (8) Future expansion. Extra keycaps are provided to correspond with various key swaps.

The DIP switches get high marks from me. I used the DIP switch settings to give me Mac OS X mode, Control to the left of the "A" key, HHKB-like Backspace/Backslash swap, and a remappable Fn key -- with this arrangement, the Fn key sends a scan code to the computer and I do not have any dead keys on the keyboard, as can be the case with keyboards that choose to have a hardwired Fn key. Excellent!

The stock keycaps on the Kul are thin ABS with laser-engraved infilled legends. Because most people would want to replace these, at least eventually, the advantage of the included keycaps for the various possible key swaps would then be lost. However, the aesthetic (and even functional) benefit of dressing up the board with some handsome doubleshots or dye-sub PBT caps would tend to outweigh the specificity of keycap legends (although this is especially nice to have for those who swap Backspace and Backslash).

Everything was fine with the keyboard itself. However, when I started typing on it, my heart sank, as I discovered that I hated typing on Cherry mx clear switches. This surprised me, as I had read glowing accounts from others for whom this switch was a favorite. The tactile bump that has been added to this switch felt scratchy or gritty in the extreme, and rather than representing the collapse of a dome or spring followed by a decrease in force, as in a Topre or IBM buckling spring switch, there was a markedly rising force all the way to bottoming out. Because I normally bottom out when typing on any other type of switch, the force curve of the mx clear switch made me feel as if I was fighting the switch rather than having it do my bidding. Moreover, I found that some of the keys would actually stick at around the actuation point, requiring a slight nudge to get them to spring back to the starting position.

My discomfort with the Cherry mx clear made sense when I actually looked at its force-displacement curve and compared it with the force-displacement curves of two of my favorite switch types, the Topre and the IBM buckling spring.

Cherry mx Clear
Clear-force.png
Clear-force.png (5.4 KiB) Viewed 6225 times
Topre
Topre-force.jpeg
Topre-force.jpeg (49.98 KiB) Viewed 6225 times
IBM Buckling Spring
BucklingSpring-force.jpeg
BucklingSpring-force.jpeg (18.45 KiB) Viewed 6225 times
With the mx clear switch, the peak force of the tactile bump is 65 cN. The force decreases after the bump to a local minimum of about 50 cN, and the actuation point (operating point) occurs at around 55 cN while the force is increasing with a steep slope. The force then continues to rise steadily to about 90 cN before reaching the bottom of the stroke. It is easy to see why this switch gives a feeling of fighting against it after the actuation point if you try to bottom out the stroke. In fact, the force-displacement curves of all Cherry mx switches share the characteristic of increasing force immediately after the actuation point, regardless of whether the switch is linear, tactile, or tactile/clicky.

In contrast, the force-displacement curve for a 45g Topre switch rises to a tactile bump at 45 cN, but actuation (operating point) occurs while the force is decreasing. The force continues to decrease, enabling the user to allow the key easily to finish the stroke until reaching bottom.

In like manner to the Topre switch, the force-displacement curve for an IBM buckling spring switch, shown in the bottom panel, increases steadily to a maximum of about 70 cN, whereupon the spring undergoes a catastrophic collapse (it buckles) accompanied by a precipitous drop in force from around 70 cN to about 55 cN, corresponding to actuation ("make") of the switch. After the sudden collapse of the spring, the force then increases again to the bottom of the stroke.

The force-displacement curves for all three switch types exhibit hysteresis -- the return or recovery (upward) stroke does not retrace the downward stroke; instead, the upward stroke follows a different path as the switch resets itself to permit a new activation and recovery cycle.

This analysis of force-displacement curves made it clear to me why I did not like any type of Cherry mx switch and why I liked both Topre and IBM buckling spring switches, which might seem worlds apart in their mechanisms until the force-displacement curves are compared. In general, all Cherry mx switches display increasing force immediately after the actuation point, whereas Topre and IBM buckling spring switches have decreasing force directly after the actuation point.

All was not lost, however. I decided to try replacing the stock keycaps on the Kul with Imsto dye-sub thick PBT and 40A-L O-rings. This resulted in a shortened key travel, thus reducing the interval of the increasing force, bottoming out before the force could go as high as it would with a longer stroke. This gave the feeling of actuation almost coinciding with the bottom of the stroke -- a similar feel in this regard to that of Topre or IBM buckling spring switches.

Indeed, after replacing the keycaps and adding the O-rings, I found that although I still preferred the feel of Topre or IBM buckling spring switches, I enjoyed the Cherry mx clears much more than before, and I liked the clears more than any other Cherry mx switch I had tried to date (black, brown, red, blue, and green). Moreover, objective tests carried out on Typeracer showed that my typing speed and accuracy were markedly better with Cherry mx clears than with any other Cherry switch and even better than my performance on Topre or IBM buckling spring switches. I attribute this, at least in part, to the fact that I make fewer accidental key presses with Cherry mx clears.

Despite my improved typing performance on mx clears, I find prolonged typing sessions with these switches tiring. I can type comfortably much longer using Topre (45g or 55g) or IBM buckling springs (Model M or F). Nevertheless, I am glad that I did the experiment with changing keycaps and installing O-rings, as this led me to discover that I could tolerate mx clears after all, and rather than putting the Kul ES-87 up for sale for want of liking the switches, it can now be a keeper.

Indeed, all things considered, I like the Kul ES-87 better than any other Cherry mx TKL keyboard I have tried, including the Filco Majestouch 2 TKL Ninja with mx blues, Ducky Shine II with mx browns, and CM Storm QFR Stealth with mx greens. The Kul ES-87 with mx clears even compares favorably with my non-Cherry TKL keyboards, such as the CM Novatouch, but I would still give a higher rating to the IBM Model M SSK and the RF 87u, both the 45g and 55g versions.
Last edited by Hypersphere on 12 Mar 2016, 23:09, edited 4 times in total.

User avatar
Daniel Beardsmore

27 Sep 2014, 23:00

The first time I tried clears I found the bottoming out to be fatiguing. I soon learnt however to simply let go after the tactile bump, and the natural reaction delay would have been long enough to reach the actuation point. I did find that pressing a single key separately felt spongy and odd, but otherwise, so long as you learn not to bottom out (which I found didn't take long), it's a good switch.

I was contemplating getting another clears keyboard (since a colleague has mine) but then I tried reds and decided that good linear is good.

User avatar
Hypersphere

27 Sep 2014, 23:17

Daniel Beardsmore wrote: The first time I tried clears I found the bottoming out to be fatiguing. I soon learnt however to simply let go after the tactile bump, and the natural reaction delay would have been long enough to reach the actuation point. I did find that pressing a single key separately felt spongy and odd, but otherwise, so long as you learn not to bottom out (which I found didn't take long), it's a good switch.

I was contemplating getting another clears keyboard (since a colleague has mine) but then I tried reds and decided that good linear is good.
Matias and others have remarked that all Cherry switches are linear, because the mechanism is based on compressing a spring, which follows Hooke's Law; essentially F = kX.

The Cherry switches that are tactile or tactile/clicky have these attributes rather artificially added rather than having them arise naturally from the fundamental mechanism of the switch. Be that as it may, if you want a purely linear switch, Cherry mx blacks and reds are arguably the best available.

Before trying out mx clears, I had thought that if I were to like any Cherry switch, it might be reds. I had tried blacks (well, presumably vintage blacks, in some old Wyse terminal keyboards) and found them a bit too heavy and lacking in interest because they did not have a tactile bump. I still think I might like reds, given that I am sure to bottom out with them, and the bottoming out might substitute for the tactile bump. On the other hand, I suspect that owing to the lightness of the switch and its lack of a tactile bump near the actuation point, I will surely have a high error rate with reds arising from accidental key presses.

User avatar
Daniel Beardsmore

28 Sep 2014, 00:00

That argument doesn't work in favour of Matias, though. The tactility of a Cherry switch arises from the interaction between the slider and a second spring. The tactility of an Alps or Alps clone switch arises between the interaction between the slider and multiple additional springs (both metal and plastic). If you remove the click or tactile leaf from an Alps switch or clone, very little tactility remains (just the point where the slider slips past the actuation leaf or bare movable contact).

Matias switches are not fundamentally different to Cherry in that respect. Switches that are fundamentally different include rubber dome and buckling spring; the latter do still compress a coil spring but in a different way, such that it does not collapse linearly. Mitsumi tactile mechanical switches had another approach: stretch the spring over a post, giving you a non-linear response.

I thought MX red would be too light for me, and in a sense they are, but the linear force curve compensates by removing the "catapult" effect of crossing the tactile peak, so you feel the force build up more as a result. I would still like a bit more resistance, but MX red is definitely nice.

The down side to KUL is that they don't yet sell ISO, though at this point I'm not wholly sure whether I'd prefer 75% or TKL if I were to replace my Poker II with something that's less of a headache to use. Certainly, I expect it to have Cherry stabilisers.

User avatar
Hypersphere

28 Sep 2014, 00:59

Daniel Beardsmore wrote: <snip>
The down side to KUL is that they don't yet sell ISO, though at this point I'm not wholly sure whether I'd prefer 75% or TKL if I were to replace my Poker II with something that's less of a headache to use. Certainly, I expect it to have Cherry stabilisers.
In the sub-TKL and larger than 60% category, I've tried the Matias Mini Tactile Pro borrowed from a friend, and I own a KC84 (white, with PBT keycaps and Cherry mx blue switches), a Leopold FC660M with Cherry blues, and a Leopold FC660C with 45g Topres.

I liked the layout, feel, and even the loud sound of the Matias, but I don't like the styling or choice of materials. I got the KC84 when they were presumably still using genuine Cherry switches; it is fun to type on, but the layout is not quite for me and Cherry switches are still not my favorites. Between the two Leopolds, I much prefer the sound and feel of the Topre version. However, the layout was not quite to my liking.

In the 60% category, I have a Poker II with blues and a HHKB Pro 2. The Poker spends most of its time boxed up on a shelf, whereas I use the HHKB Pro 2 as my daily driver at work. The HHKB has the best layout I have ever tried, and I map all my other keyboards as close to it as I can, along with the Mac OS X swap of Command and Opt/Alt. I also like the styling, design, symmetry, dye-sub PBT keycaps, and Topre switches of the HHKB. At work, I sometimes rotate the HHKB with my IBM SSK.

At home, I mostly use my RF 87u 55g and my IBM XT keyboards. Although I love the form factor and layout of the HHKB, I like the solid feel and sound of the RF and XT.

BTW, when I replaced the stock keycaps on the Kul with the Imsto dye-sub PBT set that had been on my CM Novatouch, I put the Kul caps on the Novatouch, which I am typing on now. I like the sound and feel of these caps on the Novatouch better than that of the dye-sub PBT set. Something I appreciate about the Kul keycaps is that the snap into place, rather than just sliding into place with a friction fit. They snap on both regular Cherry stems and on the hybrid stems in the Novatouch. The Imsto set was too loose on the Novatouch.

User avatar
Muirium
µ

28 Sep 2014, 01:10

Don't underestimate the significance of ISO vs. ANSI to many people. I'm used to them both (having grown up in the ISO world) as well as none: like this 3276 beamspring here, which has a vertical Return key quite like an XT instead. Fortunately, I'm quite adaptable and don't mind switching back and forth. I'm the same way with keyswitches themselves, and weights. Not so for Daniel, however, or indeed a great many ISO users. Although this is all too easy to overlook from the ANSI-US perspective.

User avatar
Hypersphere

28 Sep 2014, 02:03

Muirium wrote: Don't underestimate the significance of ISO vs. ANSI to many people. I'm used to them both (having grown up in the ISO world) as well as none: like this 3276 beamspring here, which has a vertical Return key quite like an XT instead. Fortunately, I'm quite adaptable and don't mind switching back and forth. I'm the same way with keyswitches themselves, and weights. Not so for Daniel, however, or indeed a great many ISO users. Although this is all too easy to overlook from the ANSI-US perspective.
Certainly, I am aware of the ISO vs ANSI preference, but being most familiar with ANSI, no doubt I underestimate the disorientation from having an alien layout foisted on one, or the frustration in not being able to find anything but ANSi when your kinesthetic memory cries out for ISO.

davkol

01 Oct 2014, 17:06

Hypersphere wrote: This review has also been posted on Geekhack (GH):
wall of text
:roll:

You'd enjoy one of these projected keyboards combined with a steel plate. Ruin your finger joints without any excess rubber domes or springs!

Bottoming out is like bungee jumping without the bungee cord.

/rant

User avatar
Hypersphere

01 Oct 2014, 18:33

davkol wrote:
Hypersphere wrote: This review has also been posted on Geekhack (GH):
wall of text
:roll:

You'd enjoy one of these projected keyboards combined with a steel plate. Ruin your finger joints without any excess rubber domes or springs!

Bottoming out is like bungee jumping without the bungee cord.

/rant
It's the only way to jump! ;)

User avatar
Hypersphere

03 Oct 2014, 20:29

Update: I'm getting the Kul ready to sell. Try as I might, I just don't like mx clears. I have now tried mx blue, green, brown, vintage black, and clear, and I don't like any of them. I might still give reds and contemporary blacks a try before giving up on Cherry mx altogether.

It looks as if my CM Novatouch with its hybrid 45g Torpes switches and Cherry mx compatible stems will be my only platform for showcasing my best Cherry mx keycap sets. However, it will not work with all of them. I tried fitting it with Wyse caps today and found that they are incompatible with the Novatouch. The cap pushes down and will not pop back up.

User avatar
Laser
emacs -nw

03 Oct 2014, 20:32

(with this narrator voice:) MX Clears are often used with black springs ("Panda Clears") or 62/65g springs ("Ergo Clears").
If you are the modding type. :) I use (and like) panda clears.
Last edited by Laser on 03 Oct 2014, 20:39, edited 1 time in total.

davkol

03 Oct 2014, 20:38

Well, I hated blacks for several months, because "they were stiff, loud on bottoming out and upstroke". Guess what? Now they're my primary go-to switch. All it took was adjusting my typing technique. I went from reds to stock clears in the process, which was a huge change… how did I deal with it? I exercised to build muscles in my fingers. Same thing with buckling springs. Then I hated on browns, until I tried to use them for several months with an emulated click.

I find it amazing that so many people buy a new car and simply *get used to it*, but refuse to do the same with so many other tools.

User avatar
Hypersphere

03 Oct 2014, 22:59

I sometimes use the shoe analogy when dealing with keyboards. During my younger, poorer days, I often encountered new shoes that were uncomfortable. The shoe salesman would try to convince me that they simply needed to be broken in. Later, when I was able to afford a really good pair of shoes, I discovered that they were comfortable right out of the box. Since then, I have never bought a new pair of shoes that didn't feel good when I first tried them on.

For me at least, keyboards and various keyboard switches have tended to be the same way. The first time I tried Topre switches, I liked them, and I still do. The same with IBM buckling springs, especially the Model F variety.

Of course, preferences for keyboards and their switches depend upon a number of subjective factors. And with Cherry switches, there are many factors that could be modified, such as spring weights, lubrication, keycaps, and O-rings. Indeed, with the hybrid Topre switches in the CM Novatouch, I am having fun modulating the looks, sound, and feel of the board by trying out various combinations of keycaps and O-rings.

Regarding Cherry mx, I still haven't tried reds or contemporary blacks, and I'd like to give them a shot before giving up entirely on the Cherry line of switches. In addition, I haven't really given vintage blacks a complete chance. I've fiddled around with a couple of Wyse terminal boards, but I haven't done real typing with them because I didn't have them connected to a computer. It's on my to-do list to install Soarer's Converter in at least one Wyse board.

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