Posted: 01 Dec 2016, 19:34
Hmmmm......can a laser etch chromate?
It (ours) can MARK with an additive like Cermark (same as we would do for other raw metals like stainless steel). It is important that you remove the oils prior so they don't refract the beam prematurely, and then reapply the oil afterwards to maintain consistency in the coating. More powerful lasers (say 75+ REAL watts) can etch most conventional metals aside from the likes of aluminum. It needs to be in the triple digits to perform well. When someone etches something that is anodized aluminum, they are rarely even touching the aluminum (only etching off the anodized coating). Think more like us taking the dyed PBT off our key cap experiments, but much less (pretend the dye was only a coating).E TwentyNine wrote: ↑Hmmmm......can a laser etch chromate?
Wow, I guess only two green top plate orders? I didn't order one myself, but is there an MOQ on the individual colors?lot_lizard wrote:I have some metrics/charts in the 3rd post of this thread.
There isn't because of who we are working with... plus my orders and orders for friends that aren't on DT have yet to be counted. It is highly unlikely we will mess with other forums at all to increase sales. Again, as long as we show up with numbers that aren't embarrassing for myself (our producers are personal friends), I will be happy.Techno Trousers wrote: ↑Wow, I guess only two green top plate orders? I didn't order one myself, but is there an MOQ on the individual colors?
Just sell a Cherry keyboard from the pile This could be a once in a lifetime opportunity, man!photekq wrote: ↑Only 3 days left, still no money to get in T_T
I guess I'll have no regrets then... Ordered four!POTV wrote:Paid.
(Hmmm... I have a feeling, that quite soon I´ll regret, that i did'nt order 4 instead of 2...)
Serves dem well for settling in a wrong community!lot_lizard wrote: ↑but if l lived on GH and this short GB passed me by, and would have been upset.
We are actually going to have that mesh up just about perfectly. I will still have a small reserve, but I set those aside from the beginning to always have some on hand for myself (and to help with SMALL quantity requests that people might have from time to time). Im expecting that everyone that lives on GH or Reddit that actually cares about IBM stuff is aware of our project already, but might not be aware the buy is about to end since it was so short. I am not expecting much in-flux if any, but I might be naive. To actually answer though... NO... we don't have many left.DMA wrote: ↑(does that mean you have still more switches to find a good home?)
I have ordered USB-B and USB-C because I think that the big B socket is the sturdiest for now, and the C-type to ensure that it is future-proof.evoman wrote: ↑I still haven't decided to jump in with an order (mostly because of the issue of import fees), but here are two issues I needed to decide when doing the order form (and so I need to address if I do a last minute order!) - which USB option do people recommend? I have a couple of keyboard with a micro USB connector and it seems like a poor choice, but also a common one - so what are people going with?
For the layout, if I get it with the win key, but end up needing to put it into an older case without the space, can I just pull the key or will the cylinder be a problem? thx
For the full size, there are two daughter boards. The one for both profiles (SSK and Full Size) in the USB output daughter, and the LED itself (capslock, num, scroll). This LED board is currently in development (PCB design is complete, but resistors and testing are in the works). The LED daughter board comes with every full size plate / PCB combination by default (not a separate choice in the form). There is only one LED color ( legacy green), but you could certainly get an unfinished LED board if you wanted to play with LEDs. Just let me know ahead of time if you would rather solder your own, and we will leave alone.alienman82 wrote: ↑what LEDs come on the daughter board for the full size.
Don't get anything untoward on the M|F's that you're proxying!Wodan wrote: ↑Sorry just finished fapping to this. Need I say any more?
If ever there was a time for it...POTV wrote: ↑I guess there is a market for something like 50 reasonably priced SSK cases soon after this GB. At least I would consider selling my SSK´s, if something interesting happens on the case front - be it metal, resin or wood...
Thanks for the info - the comment about USB is exactly my thought about sturdiness of the B versus the wider availability (and future-proof aspect) of C. But if you order both, how do you swap - is it an easy change of a modular component, where you just pop open the case and make a change?fohat wrote: ↑I have ordered USB-B and USB-C because I think that the big B socket is the sturdiest for now, and the C-type to ensure that it is future-proof.evoman wrote: ↑I still haven't decided to jump in with an order (mostly because of the issue of import fees), but here are two issues I needed to decide when doing the order form (and so I need to address if I do a last minute order!) - which USB option do people recommend? I have a couple of keyboard with a micro USB connector and it seems like a poor choice, but also a common one - so what are people going with?
For the layout, if I get it with the win key, but end up needing to put it into an older case without the space, can I just pull the key or will the cylinder be a problem? thx
If you have an old case you will need to cut off the "tab" between the space bar and the "Alts" to add Windows keys, or else don't install barrels (aka "chimneys") in those locations. Lot_Lizard will have plugs for unused holes.
It's a separate component, believe there's pictures of it somewhere in the original thread. Swaps right out.evoman wrote: ↑
Thanks for the info - the comment about USB is exactly my thought about sturdiness of the B versus the wider availability (and future-proof aspect) of C. But if you order both, how do you swap - is it an easy change of a modular component, where you just pop open the case and make a change?
They are nice. But as a nitpick I've raised before, they're caps specific to the Mopar diagnostic systems which used industrial SSK keyboards, aka "Mopar keycaps", not "industrial ssk caps".Ir0n wrote: ↑I figured other people might find this helpful.
Unicomp will make you some industrial ssk caps if you ask.. I ordered some for my kit.
They are a lot darker but still look nice.
I didn't know that nor did I know about the name Lol my bad.E TwentyNine wrote: ↑They are nice. But as a nitpick I've raised before, they're caps specific to the Mopar diagnostic systems which used industrial SSK keyboards, aka "Mopar keycaps", not "industrial ssk caps".Ir0n wrote: ↑I figured other people might find this helpful.
Unicomp will make you some industrial ssk caps if you ask.. I ordered some for my kit.
They are a lot darker but still look nice.
Vast majority of industrial SSKs did not have those keys.
You're not the source of the terminology, I know, just prefer the more accurate term.
Yep, it's why they're the color they are. As close to Mopar Blue as they could get:Ir0n wrote: ↑ I didn't know that nor did I know about the name Lol my bad.
I thought all industrial ssks came with those caps. ;o