deskthority

Yes. Keyboard Science Uber Alles!


Have you seen the RipOruster?

Looks like it is confirming that stainless steel thing (although still magnetic so not COMPLETELY stainless).

ripster wrote: Looks like it is confirming that stainless steel thing (although still magnetic so not COMPLETELY stainless).

Its true that most "stainless" steels are not magnetic, but actually magnetism depends on atomic/crystal structure (ferritic or austenitic) while the resistance to corrosion mainly depends on the alloy components and thier amount... There is magnetic stainless steel as well as non magnetic non stainless steel, so the magnet test is not infallible

TheSoulhunter wrote:

ripster wrote: Looks like it is confirming that stainless steel thing (although still magnetic so not COMPLETELY stainless).

Its true that most "stainless" steels are not magnetic, but actually magnetism depends on atomic/crystal structure (ferritic or austenitic) while the resistance to corrosion mainly depends on the alloy components and thier amount... There is magnetic stainless steel as well as non magnetic non stainless steel, so the magnet test is not infallible

Now that's science. This my "TIL" for the day.

IIRC, you work with metals in a machine shop, right?

itlnstln wrote:

TheSoulhunter wrote:

ripster wrote: Looks like it is confirming that stainless steel thing (although still magnetic so not COMPLETELY stainless).

Its true that most "stainless" steels are not magnetic, but actually magnetism depends on atomic/crystal structure (ferritic or austenitic) while the resistance to corrosion mainly depends on the alloy components and thier amount... There is magnetic stainless steel as well as non magnetic non stainless steel, so the magnet test is not infallible

Now that's science. This my "TIL" for the day.

IIRC, you work with metals in a machine shop, right?

Right now I build "parts" for trains and trams (mainly aluminum tho),
but my VET involved all kinds of stuff, material science included...

[Account and posts deleted on request]

Speaking only for BLUE switches, I gotta admit that the older ones were nicer.
I've done side-by-side comparisons with the following 2 keyboards:
1989 West German made G80-1800 w/Blues (NIB)
2009 Czech made G80-3000 w/Blues (NIB)
Appearance-wise, the only difference is the shade of blue; the vintage blue stems were what I would call azure, while the 2009 stems were just blue. The only interesting part is that the OLDER blue switches were consistently FIVE GRAMS lighter than the newer switches. Keep in mind that both of these boards were NIB.
Sorry I don't have pictures, these tests were done more than a year ago.

I suspect the same with brown and black switches: older, unused switches are a bit lighter than new switches. This is just from experience.

But seriously, even the cheap ones cost 200 bucks :/

You know what they say. Big thumb = big penis.

ripster wrote:You know what they say. Big thumb = big penis.

[irony mode on] Now obviously that's a piece of really topical information with genuine added value for anybody interested in the theme discussed in this thread. [Irony mode off]

ripster is on my ignore list, but unfortunately I sometimes read deskthority threads without logging in and his postings are then displayed. I'm not sure why he consistently posts sexist and sex-related stuff completely unrelated to the topics, but I would suggest he refrains from doing it here.

Hah, I know more about Keyboard Science than you will ever be able to keep in your big..... thumb.

[Account and posts deleted on request]

cactux wrote:

TheSoulhunter wrote:

app14lg.jpg

But seriously, even the cheap ones cost 200 bucks :/

Sorry to change a little bit the subject, but I notice that you have a force gage. Do you think you can let me know how much force is required to pullout a keycap in either a FILCO, Leopold, or MODEL M board?

Actually its just a random image of a force gauge i found on the web...
It was a humorous reply to ripters "how to measure without coins" post which was removed >.>

Hahaha - I CAN be trained!

from the way cherry now makes its keyboard, there might be some element of truth in it.

So am I right that these black Cherrys are Vintage MX Blacks? (G80-2551HAD) EDIT: Here as comparison a photo of my G80-1800HAD:

Tarkoon wrote:So am I right that these black Cherrys are Vintage MX Blacks?

yes

How can you tell? The logo seems normal to me...

If I compare to the two pictures in the opening thread:
At the new switches the upper left cherry circle is top alligned with the cherry text.
At the old switches the cherry is higher and bigger. (as on my picture)
Just compare where the top right edge of the Y is located compared to the upper left cherry.

EDIT:
I just remembered that I also own a G80-1800HAD and took a comparison photo. (added it to the post above)
You can see easily that the complete logo is smaller...

Not sure whether the logo is accurate in determining whether the switch is vintage or not.
The 2551HAD was made in 1993, so it should be vintage. (serial number F 36)

I have the same WYSE keyboard shown in the picture below:
The switches has small CHERRY legend, but it was made in June 1993.
If the sizing is used to determine whether the switch is vintage or not, then this 1993 WYSE is not?

I received the G80-2551HAD from the eBay seller, the logo is small compared to the one showed by Tarkoon, but they still feel smooth as my MX1550

What is the production code? F36?

Tarkoon wrote:What is the production code? F36?

yes, serial 87

Not bad. Especially compared to IBM's Why are the Koreans making gold springs again. For Bling?


Haven't they read Hooke's Law?

Latest RipOruster results after one year in the elements.



hmm... I'd add it here but...
http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?3119 ... RipOruster!

Perhaps Cherry MX is not rustproof, metal never is, but impressive nonetheless.

Safe to say ALPS can also handle a water bath (at least the switch). If bored I'll reassemble the switches and check conductivity.
http: //geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=29641

And don't stick your mechanical keyboards in the dishwasher. That would be stupid.
http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?3171 ... post600888

Bathing in the shower MIGHT work...
http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?3185 ... You-decide

ripster wrote:Latest RipOruster results after one year in the elements.

Finally a moment to tell you, I still feel that your RipOruster is ripping people a new one.
The IBM spring at least is not comparable to the others, seeing how it touches a coin (that is clearly rusting) and has both a nail on one end, and a tack on the other (presumably with differing metal mixtures); ensuring corrosion taking place..

Experimental DESIGN FLAW!

Also in my link you can see that at Macro levels the pic shows slight oxidization at the spring/brad contact tips!

For anyone doing a PhD thesis using the RipOruster I suggest plastic tiedowns to hold the springs.

Hey, The FRENCH kids used my Wooden Buckling Spring Model in their Science Class. THAT must have got them laid that night!

http://geekhack.org/showwiki.php?title= ... post564781

hello,

we are French students.
As part of our studies, we make a model of a buckling spring keyboard key. We have seen the work of ripster and wanted to know if he could send us the characteristic of your models, particularly your spring.

we are makers of all councils, thanks.

Sincerely.

The Keyboard Works Of Ripster. Would make a good coffee table book.

Sorry to disturb the dead, but is there an audible difference in click pitch between the old and the new MX blue?
Also, is there a friction difference, as there is with the vintage and non-vintage blacks?