Unitek K-155 Keyboard

User avatar
Redmaus
Gotta start somewhere

01 Apr 2015, 02:48

Here are some pictures of a Unitek keyboard I acquired at an electronics store yesterday. The board was VERY dirty when I first picked it up and needed some cleaning.

Here is the label.
Unitek
Unitek
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This was the state of the board before I cleaned it.


Ick
Ick
IMG_2028.JPG (100.09 KiB) Viewed 8052 times
Detail
Detail
IMG_2033.JPG (144.71 KiB) Viewed 8052 times
Enter Stabilizer
Enter Stabilizer
IMG_2034.JPG (130.44 KiB) Viewed 8052 times
Last edited by Redmaus on 02 Apr 2015, 23:31, edited 1 time in total.

User avatar
Redmaus
Gotta start somewhere

01 Apr 2015, 02:48

In order to clean it, I opened the whole thing in order to get to the barrel plate and interior. I unscrewed all the screws I saw and the board wouldn't open in one area. This guy was hiding from me!
There you are!
There you are!
IMG_2040.JPG (64.78 KiB) Viewed 8043 times

Another yucky part of the keyboard...
Eww...
Eww...
IMG_2045.JPG (59.83 KiB) Viewed 8043 times
The huge spacebar has a linear cherry mx gray switch underneath supported by two stabilizers. Are these supposed to be more smooth than the newer mx grays like the cherry mx blacks? You can also see that some of the keys have been faded and damaged. On closer inspection, I believe these are dyesub, but a chemical or something got on a few of the keys and caused the damage.
Vintage mx gray?
Vintage mx gray?
IMG_2027.JPG (90.38 KiB) Viewed 8043 times
The keyboard has two folding feet that feel a little flimsy, but get the job done.
Feet
Feet
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Here is a shot of the keyboard PCB
PCB Detail
PCB Detail
IMG_2044.JPG (116.54 KiB) Viewed 8043 times
Here is the keyboard assembly. Plate mounted switches.
Keyboard Assembly
Keyboard Assembly
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Last edited by Redmaus on 01 Apr 2015, 03:11, edited 1 time in total.

User avatar
Redmaus
Gotta start somewhere

01 Apr 2015, 02:48

I also cleaned the key caps. I soaked them in hot soapy water, and then hand washed each of them under hot water. Took quite a while.
Time for a Rinse
Time for a Rinse
IMG_2059.JPG (77.32 KiB) Viewed 8038 times
I actually like the cable on this board a lot. It feels solid, has a nice coil, has a glossy black feel, and the end is a full metal piece.
Too bad its AT...
Too bad its AT...
IMG_2052.JPG (93.59 KiB) Viewed 8038 times
Glamour shot
Glamour shot
IMG_2080.JPG (56.81 KiB) Viewed 8038 times
Here are the after cleaning pics of the keyboard. I used an air compressor and an alcohol soaked toothbrush to clean it.

Barrel Plate:
IMG_2054.JPG
IMG_2054.JPG (99.96 KiB) Viewed 8038 times
IMG_2055.JPG
IMG_2055.JPG (99.98 KiB) Viewed 8038 times
IMG_2056.JPG
IMG_2056.JPG (123.75 KiB) Viewed 8038 times
IMG_2057.JPG
IMG_2057.JPG (130.75 KiB) Viewed 8038 times
Fully assembled.
IMG_2068.JPG
IMG_2068.JPG (56.69 KiB) Viewed 8038 times
IMG_2069.JPG
IMG_2069.JPG (40.74 KiB) Viewed 8038 times
In the end there were two keys missing when I bought the keyboard
In the end there were two keys missing when I bought the keyboard
IMG_2070.JPG (52.14 KiB) Viewed 8038 times
LED panel
LED panel
IMG_2071.JPG (48.09 KiB) Viewed 8038 times
Arrow Cluster
Arrow Cluster
IMG_2072.JPG (49.85 KiB) Viewed 8038 times
For those of you that like to switch their ctrl and caps lock keys...
For those of you that like to switch their ctrl and caps lock keys...
IMG_2073.JPG (42.09 KiB) Viewed 8038 times
Would you just look at the size of that spacebar!
Would you just look at the size of that spacebar!
IMG_2076.JPG (78.34 KiB) Viewed 8038 times

Hope you all enjoyed! :mrgreen:
Last edited by Redmaus on 01 Apr 2015, 03:27, edited 1 time in total.

User avatar
Redmaus
Gotta start somewhere

01 Apr 2015, 02:49

Desoldering! :twisted:

I thought about not harvesting the switches but there are two missing keys and some are damaged beyond repair and good luck finding replacements. :?

I desoldered all the switches on the PCB like in the picture. This took about one or two hours to finish! :shock:
This took awhile
This took awhile
IMG_2096.JPG (134.89 KiB) Viewed 7817 times
Once everything was desoldered, I had to rip the PCB to pieces in order to get the switches off. It just would not let go! There were probably some unfinished soldering now that I look back on it.
Broken to the bones
Broken to the bones
IMG_2098.JPG (93.68 KiB) Viewed 7817 times
Next step was to pop them all out of the barrel plate.
Yay im done
Yay im done
IMG_2101.JPG (102.5 KiB) Viewed 7817 times
The hardest part was my desolderer. I think it's pretty old, it's just what my Father had available. The end kept popping out! :x
The pain
The pain
IMG_2105.JPG (89.84 KiB) Viewed 7817 times
I wonder is there any use for the barrel plate now? Or should I just recycle it?
Solid Steel
Solid Steel
IMG_2109.JPG (83.64 KiB) Viewed 7817 times
Here are all the switches in a bowl with the mx gray in the middle.
Switch Heaven
Switch Heaven
IMG_2111.JPG (132.78 KiB) Viewed 7817 times
I am pleased to report that there were no casualties among the switches. Except for the one below that was already damaged when I got the keyboard. The switch will still depress, it is just unstable. I have marked it with a silver circle on both sides of the switch. The damaged switch is the one on the left.
Yeesh
Yeesh
IMG_2118.JPG (112.05 KiB) Viewed 7817 times
I will be selling these switches, shoot me an offer. There are 95 total, and minus two if you don't count the unstable one and the mx gray switch(if you want that too)

I am also selling the keycaps for 5$ + shipping. The ones that are not damaged are actually quite nice, and I think these are dyesub. Not sure what you would use them for, but they're available.

I want to hold onto the cable. It still holds a nice coil and its sturdy and has a nice feel to it. I might be able to use it for something in the future.
Last edited by Redmaus on 04 Apr 2015, 02:25, edited 4 times in total.

User avatar
XMIT
[ XMIT ]

01 Apr 2015, 02:53

Looks like a nice find. Vintage Cherry MX Black switches. Looking forward to seeing the finished result!

User avatar
Ace
§

01 Apr 2015, 05:13

XMIT wrote: Looks like a nice find. Vintage Cherry MX Black switches. Looking forward to seeing the finished result!
I was thinking the same thing. I've been looking for a nice set of Vintage Blacks. I would probably have the switches desoldered out, wasting all of your efforts...........

User avatar
Redmaus
Gotta start somewhere

01 Apr 2015, 05:23

AbuBakr Akram wrote:
XMIT wrote: Looks like a nice find. Vintage Cherry MX Black switches. Looking forward to seeing the finished result!
I was thinking the same thing. I've been looking for a nice set of Vintage Blacks. I would probably have the switches desoldered out, wasting all of your efforts...........
How much would you pay for a set of around 100 mx blacks? 8-)

User avatar
Ace
§

01 Apr 2015, 06:18

Probably around $50. Though I'm not sure if that's a fair price.

User avatar
ramnes
ПБТ НАВСЕГДА

01 Apr 2015, 10:45

That's Unitek week!

Great find. You finally got your terminal keyboard, Redmaus. ;)

User avatar
XMIT
[ XMIT ]

01 Apr 2015, 15:55

Redmaus wrote: I also cleaned the key caps. I soaked them in hot soapy water, and then hand washed each of them under hot water. Took quite a while.
An easier method is:
salad spinner
6 cups or 1.5L hot water (212F or 100 C for PBT key caps only, 160F or 70 C for all others)
1T or 15mL dishwasher soap (ideally unscented and no added color. I use Seventh Generation Natural Dishwasher Detergent Gel, available at H-E-B, the local grocery store.)

Combine water, dish soap and key caps in salad spinner.
Spin for 10 seconds to mix soap thoroughly.
Let sit for 15 minutes. Maybe clean other parts of the keyboard while waiting.
Spin for a couple of minutes, slowly. There may be no suds especially with hard Texas water, this is okay.
Drain.
Rinse 5 times.
Spin to dry.

Let keycaps dry on a towel until no moisture remains.

Image

User avatar
Ascaii
The Beard

01 Apr 2015, 16:13

I doubt these are dyesubs...my bet is pad printed

zts

01 Apr 2015, 16:32

Great cleanup job + pics!

User avatar
scottc

01 Apr 2015, 16:35

Using this with a modern computer won't require any converting if you have a PS2 port. It speaks AT, so with a simple DIN5 to PS2 adapter, it will work just fine.

User avatar
Redmaus
Gotta start somewhere

01 Apr 2015, 19:45

scottc wrote: Using this with a modern computer won't require any converting if you have a PS2 port. It speaks AT, so with a simple DIN5 to PS2 adapter, it will work just fine.

Already tried that, it didn't like the conversion. The LEDS would work when I touched the caps lock key though.

User avatar
Redmaus
Gotta start somewhere

01 Apr 2015, 19:52

AbuBakr Akram wrote: Probably around $50. Though I'm not sure if that's a fair price.

I might do that for you. Some if the keys on this board are ruined, and the layout means you can't just replace with different ones. There were also two keys missing when I bought it. But one thing is the linear gray key. Do you want it? I am not sure if they are supposed to be smoother than the current MX grays like the blacks are. But all of the switches are indeed very smooth 8-) the gray is the same slick switch just a little heavier.

User avatar
Redmaus
Gotta start somewhere

01 Apr 2015, 19:54

Ascaii wrote: I doubt these are dyesubs...my bet is pad printed
I thought that too, until I noticed how the lettering remained so deep into the keys even with the damage. I also scrubbed them by hand VERY hard, and the lettering did not fade.

User avatar
scottc

01 Apr 2015, 20:05

Redmaus wrote:
scottc wrote: Using this with a modern computer won't require any converting if you have a PS2 port. It speaks AT, so with a simple DIN5 to PS2 adapter, it will work just fine.

Already tried that, it didn't like the conversion. The LEDS would work when I touched the caps lock key though.
Was it in AT mode, not XT? If so, then it's probably just broken.

User avatar
Ace
§

01 Apr 2015, 21:46

scottc wrote: Using this with a modern computer won't require any converting if you have a PS2 port. It speaks AT, so with a simple DIN5 to PS2 adapter, it will work just fine.
I actually prefer PS/2 to USB. As far as I know, it's the fasted way to get a key stroke from the board to your PC. It just sucks for mobile......you know, laptops, tablets etc.

User avatar
idollar
i$

01 Apr 2015, 22:57

Lot of header pictures here ...

Are you making a keycaps salad ? :lol:

User avatar
Redmaus
Gotta start somewhere

01 Apr 2015, 23:24

idollar wrote: Lot of header pictures here ...

Are you making a keycaps salad ? :lol:

:lol:

I actually have an IBM F122 ANSI conversion that I need to post once I finish formatting and editing. Unlike this guide which was quickly photographed with a point and shoot, the ANSI conversion was taken with an SLR macro lens :)

Kev_Mech

20 Feb 2017, 05:15

Redmaus wrote: Desoldering! :twisted:


I will be selling these switches, shoot me an offer. There are 95 total, and minus two if you don't count the unstable one and the mx gray switch(if you want that too)

I am also selling the keycaps for 5$ + shipping. The ones that are not damaged are actually quite nice, and I think these are dyesub. Not sure what you would use them for, but they're available.

I want to hold onto the cable. It still holds a nice coil and its sturdy and has a nice feel to it. I might be able to use it for something in the future.
Hi! Sorry to hear your keyboard was missing a few key caps. Today, I found one of these in a barn, but I am missing one of the feet that folds down :'(

Do you still have the feet from your keyboard? I would really like to completely restore my keyboard. So if you are willing to part with them, please send me a message!

Also, the end of my cable was cut off, so I think I will be needing to put a new connector if not an entire cable. Right now, I am thinking I will use a PS/2 cable instead of the serial, since nobody has serial ports, and I don't like adapters. So, if anyone has any ideas on what to use for a new cable or adapter, please let me know!

Thanks!

-Kev

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