IBM 107 FMK - IBM 107 472X-41-53951 - Lot of pictures

Name the new born keyboard

Buckling Steel
7
30%
7i$
0
No votes
47i$
0
No votes
terminator
4
17%
Exoskeleton
0
No votes
The Ingot
1
4%
i(HAVE0)$
3
13%
Hartman
2
9%
IBM 107 FMK
6
26%
Hulk
0
No votes
 
Total votes: 23

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idollar
i$

28 Mar 2015, 00:47

On popular demand the escape key has been replaced.
DSC_2855.jpg
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------

Image

Image

-------- NAME THIS KEYBOARD ---------

The poll has ended. The keyboard is called IBM 107 FMK.

-------- NAME THIS KEYBOARD ---------


Here am I again with a new chapter of the lot of pictures series.
  • Here there is a link to a similar post of my IBM AT that I posted before
  • Here there is a link to a similar post on my IBM 1390120.
  • Here you can find the link pointing to the IBM 122-F ES to US ANSI - Lot of pictures
This time I will do it somehow different. I will start this weekend with the restoration. I will post while progressing.

Index:
Last edited by idollar on 25 May 2015, 09:12, edited 51 times in total.

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idollar
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28 Mar 2015, 00:47

1.- Sticker and IBM demonstration that IBM repair included re-painting

I started today trying to understand what I had in my hands. The sticker existed but was hardly visible. It looked somehow dirty. I decided to remove it using heat. It worked perfectly. I heated the case from the back. As it is all metal, the heat when quickly to the other side of the case and soften the glue.

To my surprise, I realised that the sticker was not dirty but painted on the same color as the case. I used a cutter to scratch it and it went off. The letter and number were visible. I continued and I realised soon that it was actually consisting on two parts, a transparent plastic that was painted covering a metallic part.

The cutter scratches made minor holes in the plastic part, so I decided to be brave and try to separate both parts.
Again. I used the hairdryer of my wife :-)
To make sure that the metallic bit was not bending, I used the same cutter blade to hold this part to the hard surface and pull from the plastic out. It worked.

I tried to clean the metallic part with alcohol. DO NOT DO IT: the letter would dissolved. Fortunately, I realised soon that this was the case with minor damages.

Finally, I replaced the plastic with a new cover that I extracted from a roll that I have for these purposes.

My conclussion is that the IBM service centre, re-painted the keyboard during a service.

Some pictures of the process follow:
Spoiler:
Sticker with original plastic and paint
Sticker with original plastic and paint
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Metallic and plastic part separated. One can see the paint.
Metallic and plastic part separated. One can see the paint.
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Sticker after restoration. It actually looks better than in the picture
Sticker after restoration. It actually looks better than in the picture
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This is the addtional sticker added during the keyboard restoration, I guess that by the IBM service centre
This is the addtional sticker added during the keyboard restoration, I guess that by the IBM service centre
DSC_9686.jpg (368.31 KiB) Viewed 10305 times
I will post additional pictures and information another day. I am tired now. I will continue latter with this project.
Last edited by idollar on 28 Mar 2015, 15:49, edited 4 times in total.

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idollar
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28 Mar 2015, 00:48

2a.- Paint-work - removing the paint and "BAD"

Hi,

This is posted in near-real time. The Molto Power Abbeizer is still operating in the keyboard.
But first things first: Thanks to "snoopy" for the advices that he has been given me on how to do this. THIS POST IS YOUR POST !

This is the product that am using to remove the paint:
Spoiler:
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First I made a "bed" of plastic foil to keek the keyboard cover (top first) when removing the paint:
Spoiler:
DSC_9699.jpg
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First round

I then applied a good cover of the Abbeizer
Spoiler:
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And then completely cover.
Spoiler:
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I waited 15/20 min and checked the result. Only the top part of the paint was removed. So I cleaned it with a putty knife and paper.
Spoiler:
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and surprise; another confirmation that the keyboard was repainted at a given point
Spoiler:
DSC_9706.jpg
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Anyhow, as the Molto did not do the complete work, I have applied it again. this time I will wait more than 20min.

Second round

The paint does not dissolved after the second attempt. I scratched once more and applied Molto again (10:44 am)
It started to rain :-(

Here is how it looked like after the second round:
Spoiler:
DSC_9707.jpg
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Third and other rounds

At the end, I had to heat the case to remove it. It would not go at normal temperature.
I used the hair dryer of my wife, making sure that the air would not blow to me.

The result, after some work is impressive (to me).
Spoiler:
DSC_9708.jpg
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You will notice that the right top part of the case is shiny. I wet-sanded.
Snoopy, I cannot apply any color to this metal beauty. It will be a transparent mat paint !

Wet sanding

I wet-sanded all the top but for the right part. I post a picture to show the effect.
Spoiler:
DSC_9710.jpg
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Polish and final

And finally some polishing ...
Spoiler:
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To be continued with the bottom part of the case ...
Last edited by idollar on 29 Mar 2015, 18:39, edited 10 times in total.

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idollar
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28 Mar 2015, 00:48

2b.- Paint-work (no paint) - Final result

On Snoopy request (we say that this is his post :-)) there are some close ups of the result.
Thanks once more snoopy !
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Spoiler:
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Last edited by idollar on 29 Mar 2015, 17:51, edited 3 times in total.

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idollar
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28 Mar 2015, 00:48

3.- Openinig the sandwitch

In the previous lot of pictures I focused in the final product. This time I have pictured the original status also.
The following pictures show how the sandwitch was put aside.

The first thing to do is to get some nice books to hold the set.
Spoiler:
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Then, after opening the metal bit that ensures that the sandwitch is not open by mistake during normal use, one can separate the parts.
Spoiler:
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Finally, we separate the barrels
Spoiler:
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This last picture shows how the old foam was "glued" to the top metal plate. Sanding will remove it.
Last edited by idollar on 01 Apr 2015, 17:57, edited 1 time in total.

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idollar
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28 Mar 2015, 00:48

4.- Sanding the top barrel

This process is simple: find a piece of nice sand paper (I always use wet-sanding) and clean the surface.
Some people removes the plastic parts. I don't. I am always afraid of them breaking.
Spoiler:
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Now it is time to take some close-up pictures
Spoiler:
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Last edited by idollar on 01 Apr 2015, 18:02, edited 1 time in total.

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idollar
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28 Mar 2015, 00:48

5.- The barrels

Once more, it is the moment to take some pictures of the barrels for future reference.
This time they are not cleaned
Spoiler:
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Last edited by idollar on 01 Apr 2015, 18:06, edited 1 time in total.

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idollar
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28 Mar 2015, 00:48

6.- The Flippers

Same process with the flippers
Spoiler:
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Last edited by idollar on 01 Apr 2015, 18:09, edited 1 time in total.

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idollar
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28 Mar 2015, 00:48

7.- The Original Controller

For future reference I took some pictures of the original controller

First when it was still attached to the PCB
Spoiler:
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Then after separation
Spoiler:
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The separation process will be documented latter ...
Last edited by idollar on 01 Apr 2015, 18:20, edited 3 times in total.

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idollar
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28 Mar 2015, 00:48

8.- The PCB

As stated before, this time I am taking pictures of the dirt in the PCB also
Spoiler:
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It was not that bad. So I guess that the PCB was cleaned when the keyboard was serviced.

You can compare the last picture above with the PCB after some alcohol cleaning:
Spoiler:
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Last edited by idollar on 01 Apr 2015, 18:28, edited 1 time in total.

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idollar
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28 Mar 2015, 00:48

9.- Back plate sticker

This is a single image for reference only
Spoiler:
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Last edited by idollar on 01 Apr 2015, 22:27, edited 2 times in total.

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idollar
i$

28 Mar 2015, 00:49

10.- New foam

This is the part that my neighbours hate: 107 holes with a pucher can be noisy !

Get the tools and the material:
Spoiler:
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Cut it with enough margin:
Spoiler:
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and using our friend the cut blade make some inserts to fix it into the barrels plate:
Spoiler:
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Go to the garden and using the same paint that we used to paint the barrel plate, spray it on top:
Spoiler:
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The result will look as follows:
Spoiler:
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And make the holes:
Spoiler:
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These little bastards will fly arround you:
Spoiler:
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I do not know why I took so many pictures form the final result. I post them all. This is a "lot of pictures" post, so do not complain :-)
Spoiler:
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This is how the wooden piece will end up. Quite a torture !
Spoiler:
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Finally, cut the border that you do not need:
Spoiler:
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Last edited by idollar on 02 Apr 2015, 07:21, edited 4 times in total.

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idollar
i$

28 Mar 2015, 00:49

11.- Removing the original controller

I first tried to remove the old controller without cutting the ribbon cable.
I am not an expert soldering, but I have some experience. I COULDN'T
Spoiler:
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So I decided to cut it
Spoiler:
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To get access to the wire I made some vertical cuts. I then removed the in-between plastic. In the following picture you can see how one of these little parts is about to fall.
Spoiler:
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The final result after a long process follows.
Spoiler:
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Last edited by idollar on 01 Apr 2015, 22:28, edited 4 times in total.

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idollar
i$

28 Mar 2015, 00:49

12.- xwhatsit

The controler that I use is a xwhatsit. More information can be found here
This piece of amaizing work will bring the keyboard back to live.

The following photos show how it was attached to the ribbon cable prepared in the chapter 10 above
Spoiler:
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Last edited by idollar on 01 Apr 2015, 22:28, edited 3 times in total.

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idollar
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28 Mar 2015, 00:49

13.- Plastic under the PCB

All the model F that I have restored had a plastic foil between the back plate and the PCB. To my surprise this keyboard did not have it.
Spoiler:
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So I decided to create mine.
First one should find something to do it:
Spoiler:
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We cut it to the right side. I used again my cutter blade to follow the edges. It is important to let space for the metal parts of the top plate. If not, the set will not come back together. I used tape to avoid displacement of the parts.
Spoiler:
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In the following pictures you can better see how it looks like:
Spoiler:
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Last edited by idollar on 01 Apr 2015, 23:31, edited 4 times in total.

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idollar
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28 Mar 2015, 00:49

14.- Dimensions - PCB

I decided to check the size of a couple of parts for future reference:
Spoiler:
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Please, do not hesitate to ask for other details that you may need for your projects
Last edited by idollar on 01 Apr 2015, 22:29, edited 2 times in total.

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idollar
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28 Mar 2015, 00:49

15.- Dimensions - Barrel

Sorry, I should have choosen a better background:
Spoiler:
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Last edited by idollar on 01 Apr 2015, 22:29, edited 4 times in total.

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idollar
i$

28 Mar 2015, 00:49

16.- Dimensions - Flipper

Have you ever wondered how big are the flippers inside your F ?
Here is the answer
Spoiler:
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Last edited by idollar on 01 Apr 2015, 22:29, edited 2 times in total.

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idollar
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28 Mar 2015, 00:49

17.- Back together

Once the foam is ready, the top plate has been restored and repainted, the controller is installed and the barrels are clean, it is time to bring the swandwich back together

First one has to install the barrels in their place, and set the flippers and the inserts
Spoiler:
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Time to take some more pictures:
Spoiler:
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Next. take the PCB
Spoiler:
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And install = solder the beeper:
Spoiler:
DSC_9889.jpg
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< I will post here the pinout >

Finally, put all parts in place, hold them with clamps:
Spoiler:
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And in vertical position, using a piece of good, hit the barrel plate down to make it fit with the bottom metal plate and the pcb.
Spoiler:
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Last edited by idollar on 04 Apr 2015, 21:36, edited 2 times in total.

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idollar
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28 Mar 2015, 00:49

18.- Grounding

The electic shocks that I was getting make me think seriously about the grounding

Fist I grounded the USB cable to the case:
Spoiler:
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Then I connected a wire between the controller, the back plate, and both parts of the case.
The following pictures show the resulting resistance.
Spoiler:
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I hope that this will be sufficient
Last edited by idollar on 04 Apr 2015, 21:47, edited 1 time in total.

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idollar
i$

28 Mar 2015, 00:50

19.- The PCB - Details

This is an overview of the front:
Spoiler:
DSC_9858.jpg
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And the same overview from the back:
Spoiler:
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-----

Details from the front:
Spoiler:
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.... continues in the next post. I reached the maximum number of images per post :?
Last edited by idollar on 04 Apr 2015, 22:03, edited 1 time in total.

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idollar
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28 Mar 2015, 00:50

19b.- The PCB - Details

Details from the back:
Spoiler:
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Last edited by idollar on 04 Apr 2015, 22:07, edited 2 times in total.

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idollar
i$

28 Mar 2015, 00:50

20.- A mess, I broke the xwhatsit controller - 4h to repair it !

So, yes, I broke it.
It was not the controller of the metal keyboard but the controller from the other one that I had. The same one that temporarily donated the inners to this case to test it at work.

When I took it out, the cable broke the micro-usb connector:
Spoiler:
DSC_9912.jpg
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You can see that the copper from the pcb went off with the connector, so there is no way to get it back,
The solution was either to get a new controller or to solder the cables directly to the components. That's what I did.
It took some 2 hours util I managed.
Spoiler:
DSC_9832.jpg
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This image was fundamental to find where to solder the cables
Spoiler:
Image
This is where the cables go:
Spoiler:
i.jpg
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finally I put some plastic glue on top with a heat gun. It will maintain things in place:
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Last, I added some glue to the other connector to avoid the same thing to happen
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Last edited by idollar on 04 Apr 2015, 22:36, edited 2 times in total.

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idollar
i$

28 Mar 2015, 00:50

21.- Whatsit controller software

Hello again,

Today I post some pictures of the controller software. I found it easy to use and complete, very complete. THANK YOU whatsit !

The version that I am showing was compiled in a debian box. I run it as root (sudo).
I have also used the windows version without any problem.

Note that on the first picture, on the left top matrix in which the pressed keys are shown, I am pressing many simultaneously.
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Last edited by idollar on 11 Apr 2015, 13:29, edited 3 times in total.

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idollar
i$

28 Mar 2015, 00:50

22.- Some pictures for the final result

And I still have 4 spare posts to fill if needed :-)
I will post some pictures in some time with the final blank caps (I have to pass the USA to pick them up). Until then I "borrowed" the caps from a normal M.
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Last edited by idollar on 11 Apr 2015, 15:49, edited 2 times in total.

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idollar
i$

28 Mar 2015, 01:07

(repetition of the last post for completeness)

All,

I guess that we can close this thread with the attached pictures. I finally got hold of the blank keycaps from Unicomp !!

Image

Image

I have used some steel wood 000 to create a mat effect that I like a lot. If you want to follow this process also, move the steel wool in circles.

We should also baptize officially name the keyboard the "IBM 107 FMK" also. So we change the title of the tread.

I am using it in a daily basis at work.

Thanks a lot to all of you for your contributions !!!

i$
Last edited by idollar on 23 May 2015, 00:40, edited 2 times in total.

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idollar
i$

28 Mar 2015, 01:07

Place holder 27

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idollar
i$

28 Mar 2015, 01:08

Place holder 28

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idollar
i$

28 Mar 2015, 01:08

Place holder 29

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idollar
i$

28 Mar 2015, 01:08

Place holder 30 and last. Post your comments from here :-)

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