(SOLVED) How to repair a model m membrane

User avatar
idollar
i$

07 Nov 2014, 11:12

EDIT - the title of the tread has been changed to indicate that the process to repair a membrane is described latter


------

Hi,

For the impatient:
I received an model M. It was REALLY dirty.
The membrane is broken (check the pictures later).
What is the best way to repair it ?
And yes, the membrane is broken. One cannot see it, but the multimeter does not lie.

The long version follows:

I dismounted it, clear the case, clear the key-caps and start with the bolt-mod.
I removed the rivets. I took off the membrane. I cleaned it.
I drilled the holes and mounted back.

The problems started here.

There were a number of key-sets that did not work:
set1 - 1,q,a,z,caps-lock
set2 - g,b,h,n

I tested the keyboard with a different controller that I knew to be working. I had the problems.
I tested the controller of the keyboard under repair with a working keyboard. I worked.

My conclusion: The membranes are broken.

I dismantle the keyboard again and check the membrane. All the faulty keys are on the same line. I checked the conductivity between the edge of the membrane and it is broken.

This is the point where it is broken. You cannot visually see it. But it is broken.
IMG_20141107_081440 - 2.jpg
IMG_20141107_081440 - 2.jpg (176.26 KiB) Viewed 22614 times
IMG_20141107_081427 - 1.jpg
IMG_20141107_081427 - 1.jpg (198.07 KiB) Viewed 22614 times
Thanks in advance.

i$
Last edited by idollar on 17 Nov 2014, 00:00, edited 3 times in total.

User avatar
macmakkara

07 Nov 2014, 11:16

Unicomp sells New sets of membranes if dont find way to fix those.

User avatar
Muirium
µ

07 Nov 2014, 11:20

Yup. Ask them for assistance to pick the right one.

http://pckeyboard.com/page/Misc/MEM

Otherwise, silver ink?

User avatar
macmakkara

07 Nov 2014, 11:21

Or Copper tape.

User avatar
cookie

07 Nov 2014, 12:26


User avatar
idollar
i$

07 Nov 2014, 12:29

macmakkara wrote: Unicomp sells New sets of membranes if dont find way to fix those.
Thank you! Shipping cost will be as much as the keyboard :-(
But it is good to know that I can play with the membrane. There is always a backup solution.

User avatar
idollar
i$

07 Nov 2014, 12:30

Thank you. Great !

User avatar
cookie

07 Nov 2014, 12:36

Feel free to share your results, if you are going to use conductive glue/color :)

User avatar
idollar
i$

07 Nov 2014, 12:49

cookie wrote: Feel free to share your results, if you are going to use conductive glue/color :)
I will.

User avatar
ramnes
ПБТ НАВСЕГДА

07 Nov 2014, 14:14

Wait, we could do a NKRO model M with diodes and that glue, no?

User avatar
cookie

07 Nov 2014, 14:32

It is actually conductive paint, but I think it is possible to mix it with glue!
And lets be honest, these sheets are only relevant because of the Model M, otherwise noone would care :D

User avatar
Muirium
µ

07 Nov 2014, 15:29

ramnes wrote: Wait, we could do a NKRO model M with diodes and that glue, no?
I was thinking along those lines a while ago:

http://deskthority.net/workshop-f7/plan ... t6763.html

Then I got more heavily into Model Fs…

User avatar
Touch_It

07 Nov 2014, 18:58

I used this from Radio Shack. Cheap and effective. Just be careful with how thick you put it on. Personally I used a paper clip to apply it. Wasn't very hard.

http://www.radioshack.com/bare-conducti ... 60267.html

User avatar
idollar
i$

07 Nov 2014, 21:09

Thank you.

I have tried copper tape and ... it did not work.
It does not conduct on the side with the glue so I had to solder it. It eventually worked but the cable is not flexible enough and after doing back all my screws it broke.

Conclusion: use the Bare Conductive. Forget about the copper tape.

I guess that now my only option is unicomp and their expensive shipping cost :-(

User avatar
cookie

11 Nov 2014, 10:38

You've tried to solder something on a membrane?

User avatar
idollar
i$

11 Nov 2014, 17:17

I was very impatient and I could not wait for the paint to arrive, so yes. I went to the local store and when I saw the copper plate I thought that I could manage with it.

It actually worked until I mounted the keyboard back. It then broke as it was too rigid.

The process was difficult. Actually it was VERY difficult. As soon as heat was applied to circuit in the membrane the conductive line was destroyed. The membrane surface survived without problems. The trick was to be fast enough with the soldering. This is why I had to follow the lines in the circuit until I managed to get it working.

As I said above, it all worked until I had to bend the membrane edge to get it in the controller. It then broke. I shouted in my desperation. The full process took several hours. Very frustrating.

User avatar
ماء

11 Nov 2014, 17:44

that pen can make own PCB interisting 8-)

User avatar
idollar
i$

11 Nov 2014, 20:31

I have purchased a new membrane from unicomp. I will anyhow give a try to the pen that I have also ordered with the membrane that I have "destroyed". I will keep you posted on how I waste my money :-)

User avatar
Muirium
µ

11 Nov 2014, 21:04

There's still time for more wrong!

Image

sean4star

14 Nov 2014, 23:31

I have tried copper tape and ... it did not work.
I could have sworn hasu used copper tape to mod a Model M membrane...

Could it be that the tape you used did not have conductive adhesive?

User avatar
idollar
i$

16 Nov 2014, 08:21

sean4star wrote:
I have tried copper tape and ... it did not work.
I could have sworn hasu used copper tape to mod a Model M membrane...

Could it be that the tape you used did not have conductive adhesive?
The tape that I used did not have conductive adhedive. That's for sure.
I have ordered new membrane but I am still trying to repair them. At present I am using the conductive paint.

The paint works, but the resistance is significant. I am getting from 0.2 to 0.5 kohms. I mounted back the keyboard but the CRT key reports a wear key. I am guessing that this is because of the high resistance.

I plan to disasemble the keyboard, once more, today and check it again. I will take some pictures to share them.

i$

User avatar
idollar
i$

16 Nov 2014, 23:36

SOLUTION - HOWTO with pictures

All,

As promised here is my result of fixing a couple of membranes.
I will try to summarize all the process, for those that are interested to have a single reference.

The structure of the post follows (in two different posts due to the limitation in the number of images to include in each post):
  • 1.- Why were the membranes broken ?

    2.- First attempt and error

    3.- Second attempt – Bare Conductive Electric Paint
    • 3a.- IBM model M 1396790
      3b.- IBM model M 1391401
    4.- Conclusions
The pictures are hidden to avoid a longer post

1.- Why where the membranes were broken ?

IBM model M 1391401: I procured this keyboard in ebay, USA. The seller told me that some keys were not working. He told me that the following keys were failing. I attach the text where the failure was described;
As for the non-working keys,
esc ` 1 tab q a z shift lctrl lalt g h + ] ' enter rshift rctl ralt
prtscrn scrllock pause home end uparrow leftarrow kypd+ kypdenter
kypd0 kypd.
At the time of procurement, I had no experience with IBM model M but I found repairing the keyboard an interesting challenge ;-)

The problem that I found (initially) is described in some pictures that were in the previous posts:
Spoiler:
IMG_20141107_081440 - 2.jpg
IMG_20141107_081440 - 2.jpg (176.26 KiB) Viewed 22293 times
IMG_20141107_081427 - 1.jpg
IMG_20141107_081427 - 1.jpg (198.07 KiB) Viewed 22293 times
IBM model M 1396790: I procured this keyboard in ebay, Europe, Germany. The previous owner drop beer in the keyboard. I am not sure when did it happen. I do not know how long the membrane was exposed to the beer.

2.- First attempt and ERROR (do not try this !)

Initially, I tried to use copper tape to fix the membrane. The tape that I used had some glue on one side. This glue was not conductive. Thus I had to solder it to the conductive line in the membrane. This was extremely difficult. I eventually managed to do it.

I spent various hours, It initially worked but as soon as I put together the keyboard, the soldering broke in the part of the membrane that bended to the controller.

Following I attach some pictures. The result does not look very nice. But as I said, it was not easy.
Spoiler:
IMG_20141107_185458.jpg
IMG_20141107_185458.jpg (247.57 KiB) Viewed 22293 times
IMG_20141107_195145.jpg
IMG_20141107_195145.jpg (256.93 KiB) Viewed 22293 times
3.- Second attempt – Bare Conductive Electric Paint

I got it following the recommendation of "cookie"
The ink takes some time to dry. It will become conductive only after it gets solid.
It is also important to notice the the resistance is significant as explained later in the post.

3a.- IBM model M 1396790

I started by replacing the copper with the ink. The resulting resistance was approximately 0.4k ohms.
In order to access the conductive line, I had to scratch the plastic protection on top. This plastic is only present in this section. If you have to do it, please do it gently. If you go to far you will destroy the conductive line. If you do note scratch enough you will not arrive to it. Always use a tester before "painting" on top. You may not have conductivity at both ends.
Spoiler:
DSCF1046_small.jpg
DSCF1046_small.jpg (52.92 KiB) Viewed 22293 times
I checked the conductivity and I had to repair other sections on the membrane:
Spoiler:
DSCF1047_small.jpg
DSCF1047_small.jpg (46.88 KiB) Viewed 22293 times
I attach also images from the different membrane layers. You will notice that I had to write down the keys.
Spoiler:
DSCF1043_small.jpg
DSCF1043_small.jpg (74.67 KiB) Viewed 22293 times
DSCF1045_small.jpg
DSCF1045_small.jpg (56.14 KiB) Viewed 22293 times
DSCF1044_small.jpg
DSCF1044_small.jpg (63.69 KiB) Viewed 22293 times
3b.- IBM model M 1391401

I had some non-working keys; "g", "h", "b", "n", "left-ALT", "space", "0-num_pad", ".-num_pad" . I found the following errors in the membrane that I corrected:
Spoiler:
DSCF1016_small.jpg
DSCF1016_small.jpg (50.09 KiB) Viewed 22293 times
I attach pictures of the marked membranes. Note also that I marked the points that are not used in the keyboard. I also wrote down the keycode:
Spoiler:
DSCF1037_small.jpg
DSCF1037_small.jpg (54.7 KiB) Viewed 22293 times
DSCF1036_small.jpg
DSCF1036_small.jpg (80.14 KiB) Viewed 22293 times
DSCF1038_small.jpg
DSCF1038_small.jpg (68.37 KiB) Viewed 22293 times
--> continues in a second post. The software in the forum does not allow to include more pictures :-(
Last edited by idollar on 18 Nov 2014, 11:35, edited 5 times in total.

User avatar
idollar
i$

16 Nov 2014, 23:49

--> second part of the post. The software in the forum does not allow to include more pictures :-(

I also attach other pictures from the process:
Spoiler:
DSCF1036_small.jpg
DSCF1036_small.jpg (80.14 KiB) Viewed 22288 times
DSCF1037_small.jpg
DSCF1037_small.jpg (54.7 KiB) Viewed 22288 times
DSCF1038_small.jpg
DSCF1038_small.jpg (68.37 KiB) Viewed 22288 times
DSCF1042_small.jpg
DSCF1042_small.jpg (74.6 KiB) Viewed 22288 times
DSCF1041_small.jpg
DSCF1041_small.jpg (56.97 KiB) Viewed 22288 times
DSCF1040_small.jpg
DSCF1040_small.jpg (37.91 KiB) Viewed 22288 times
DSCF1039_small.jpg
DSCF1039_small.jpg (39.63 KiB) Viewed 22288 times
DSCF1023_small.jpg
DSCF1023_small.jpg (81.46 KiB) Viewed 22288 times
DSCF1024_small.jpg
DSCF1024_small.jpg (28.38 KiB) Viewed 22288 times
I also changed the LEDs with blue ones;
Spoiler:
DSCF1029_small.jpg
DSCF1029_small.jpg (51.91 KiB) Viewed 22288 times
DSCF1030_small.jpg
DSCF1030_small.jpg (62.62 KiB) Viewed 22288 times
4.- Conclusions
02760267_00.jpg
02760267_00.jpg (7.09 KiB) Viewed 22277 times
My recommendations to repair a model m membrane follow:

a) Do not use copper tape

b) Use conductive ink
c) The conductive ink is not as conductive as the copper, but the keybard will still work. At least with the amount that I added documented in the pictures above.

Regards

i$

User avatar
cookie

17 Nov 2014, 09:32

thank you a lot that you have shared your results with us!
Good work :)

User avatar
matt3o
-[°_°]-

17 Nov 2014, 09:36


quantalume

17 Nov 2014, 17:26

I bought some silver conductive paint a few months ago that came in a syringe, which allowed me to lay down a thick bead of paint on the membrane. I don't remember the exact resistance that resulted, but I'm pretty sure it was under 100 ohms. The resistance does indeed go down as the paint dries.

User avatar
beltet

18 Nov 2014, 00:12

good work! looks better then the soldering of copper tape ;).
btw, what resistance would be to great? And what would happend? Doesn't the controller recognise the signal?

User avatar
idollar
i$

18 Nov 2014, 07:30

beltet wrote: btw, what resistance would be to great? And what would happend? Doesn't the controller recognise the signal?
This was actually my worry. But the keyboard works like a charm.
One shall be carefull with the tester. If you are looking for conductivitiy, it will not beep !

Arakula

18 Nov 2014, 07:37

This resistance thing surprised me quite a lot, too, when I did my first bolt mod (not out of fun, but because somebody's drink of choice shortened some paths on the matrix), but if you measure it across some perfectly functioning original traces, you'll find that the original conductive paint has quite a high resistance, too. I think it was something like 100 ohms for ~20cm, but that's just from memory. Enough to stop the continuity check on my multimeter to work.

User avatar
Madhias
BS TORPE

18 Nov 2014, 08:58

Very interesting, and a straight forward and easy solution!

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