Good Methods for Preserving Labels on IBM Keyboards?

[Hypersphere]

When doing a thorough cleaning and possibly a restoration (that might involve sanding and painting the case and metal plates) of an IBM keyboard (Kishsaver, AT, XT, Model M, F-122, M-122) what are some good ways of preserving the labels from the back of the case and back plate?

For example, in a Model M restoration video made by phosphorglow, he shows peeling a label off the back of the case with the aid of a heat gun, but I was not sure if the label should be presoaked in water or detergent or if it would be better to use a single-edged razor on the dry label.

Then, after the label is safely removed intact, what are some good ways for reattaching it? Should the label be laminated in clear plastic and reattached using waterproof plastic glue? Could something like a piece of acetate plastic from an overhead transparency be cut to size and glued over the label?

Looking forward to seeing your helpful and detailed suggestions.

[quantalume]

I've seen phosphorglow's video, but I've never tried the heat gun approach for fear of tearing the label. I'd be interested in hearing the finer points of how to do it right. He also has a process whereby he regenerates the labels somehow (scan and photoshop?). What I do is cut a piece of clear plastic packing tape slightly larger than the label and stick it over the top, assuming the label wasn't laminated to begin with (many of the early ones were). Then, I carefully clean one end at a time with the case held vertical so the water runs off away from the label.

[scottc]

<snip>What I do is cut a piece of clear plastic packing tape slightly larger than the label and stick it over the top, assuming the label wasn't laminated to begin with (many of the early ones were).<snip>

Watch about for the laminated ones: in my experience, even they can be slightly penetrated by water.

[Paralel]

I go the packing tape route as well. It has never led me astray. Although I hear, given long enough, the adhesives in the tape will eventually cause pigment migration/smearing issues with regard to the printing on the label.

[vivalarevolución]

I have used the heat gun approach many times, but I actually use my roommate's hair dryer. Once I got down the method, I did not damage the labels, but I did make some mistakes early on.

The method works well for taking labels off plastic, but it has not proved sufficient for removing labels from metal. Maybe I am doing something wrong.

After removing the label, I laminate it and then use a 3M spray adhesive for reapplying. I am wondering if there is a better adhesive out there that is less messy, but I have not search very hard. This waterproof plastic glue sounds interesting...

[Hypersphere]

I have used the heat gun approach many times, but I actually use my roommate's hair dryer. Once I got down the method, I did not damage the labels, but I did make some mistakes early on.

The method works well for taking labels off plastic, but it has not proved sufficient for removing labels from metal. Maybe I am doing something wrong.

After removing the label, I laminate it and then use a 3M spray adhesive for reapplying. I am wondering if there is a better adhesive out there that is less messy, but I have not search very hard. This waterproof plastic glue sounds interesting...

When you use a heat gun, do you do this with a dry label? Do you start with a razor to lift a corner of the label off the plastic?

Possible explanations for the difficulty with using a heat gun to remove a label from metal: (1) different adhesion on metal vs plastic; (2) heat is conducted away from the label by the metal.

What do you use for laminating the labels?

Thanks.

[vivalarevolución]

I have used the heat gun approach many times, but I actually use my roommate's hair dryer. Once I got down the method, I did not damage the labels, but I did make some mistakes early on.

The method works well for taking labels off plastic, but it has not proved sufficient for removing labels from metal. Maybe I am doing something wrong.

After removing the label, I laminate it and then use a 3M spray adhesive for reapplying. I am wondering if there is a better adhesive out there that is less messy, but I have not search very hard. This waterproof plastic glue sounds interesting...

When you use a heat gun, do you do this with a dry label? Do you start with a razor to lift a corner of the label off the plastic?

Possible explanations for the difficulty with using a heat gun to remove a label from metal: (1) different adhesion on metal vs plastic; (2) heat is conducted away from the label by the metal.

What do you use for laminating the labels?

Thanks.

I just set the dry label aside until I am ready to do the lamination.

For a laminating the label, I just used basic laminating sheets and a laminating machine. I do not own the machine myself, so I paid a local store a couple bucks to do it for me. One arts and craft store will charge $1 for laminating a 1' by 3' sheet. It costs me more in gas to get there and back.

Also, I definitely do not recommend wetting the label, because it will leave water stains, as I can show with many of my photos.

[Paralel]

...Possible explanations for the difficulty with using a heat gun to remove a label from metal: (1) different adhesion on metal vs plastic; (2) heat is conducted away from the label by the metal...

It is also possible that the thermal expansion of the metal creates surface tension on the label which causes it to actually adhere more readily to the surface where it was applied.

[phosphorglow]

Bit late to this topic.

Earlier M's are the easiest to remove the case label from. Around 88-89 they started using a different glue which makes them a little more difficult and require some patience. You can usually see the outer edge of the label on those being a bit more yellow from the glue. There were some around '91 that used a different material for the label and aren't ruined by water. Later models with the smaller labels are laser printed and I stopped bothering with them because they hold up to water just fine, and heat can warp/shrink them. I think the UK models used a thermal label, so heat just turns them black.

I trim the excess plastic edge from the label before laminating them which helps make them fit properly in the recess.

As for the labels on the steel plate... patience and a fresh razor blade, working from the top to bottom following the curve of the plate. No heat - you guys are correct, it makes it worse.