Cherry MX old vs. new
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- Location: Ugly American
- Main keyboard: As Long As It is Helvetica
- Main mouse: Mickey
- Favorite switch: Wanna Switch? Well, I Certainly Did!
- DT Pro Member: -
Yes. Keyboard Science Uber Alles!
Have you seen the RipOruster?
Looks like it is confirming that stainless steel thing (although still magnetic so not COMPLETELY stainless).
Have you seen the RipOruster?
Looks like it is confirming that stainless steel thing (although still magnetic so not COMPLETELY stainless).
Last edited by ripster on 07 Oct 2011, 21:40, edited 1 time in total.
- TheSoulhunter
- Location: Euroland
- Main keyboard: KBC Poker / HHKB
- Main mouse: G9 / Deathadder BE
- Favorite switch: 65g Clears
- DT Pro Member: -
Its true that most "stainless" steels are not magnetic, but actually magnetism depends on atomic/crystal structure (ferritic or austenitic) while the resistance to corrosion mainly depends on the alloy components and thier amount... There is magnetic stainless steel as well as non magnetic non stainless steel, so the magnet test is not infallibleripster wrote: Looks like it is confirming that stainless steel thing (although still magnetic so not COMPLETELY stainless).
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- Location: San Antonio, TX
- Main keyboard: Noppoo Choc Mini
- Favorite switch: Cherry Brown
- DT Pro Member: -
Now that's science. This my "TIL" for the day.TheSoulhunter wrote:Its true that most "stainless" steels are not magnetic, but actually magnetism depends on atomic/crystal structure (ferritic or austenitic) while the resistance to corrosion mainly depends on the alloy components and thier amount... There is magnetic stainless steel as well as non magnetic non stainless steel, so the magnet test is not infallibleripster wrote: Looks like it is confirming that stainless steel thing (although still magnetic so not COMPLETELY stainless).
IIRC, you work with metals in a machine shop, right?
- TheSoulhunter
- Location: Euroland
- Main keyboard: KBC Poker / HHKB
- Main mouse: G9 / Deathadder BE
- Favorite switch: 65g Clears
- DT Pro Member: -
Right now I build "parts" for trains and trams (mainly aluminum tho),itlnstln wrote:Now that's science. This my "TIL" for the day.TheSoulhunter wrote:Its true that most "stainless" steels are not magnetic, but actually magnetism depends on atomic/crystal structure (ferritic or austenitic) while the resistance to corrosion mainly depends on the alloy components and thier amount... There is magnetic stainless steel as well as non magnetic non stainless steel, so the magnet test is not infallibleripster wrote: Looks like it is confirming that stainless steel thing (although still magnetic so not COMPLETELY stainless).
IIRC, you work with metals in a machine shop, right?
but my VET involved all kinds of stuff, material science included...
- spolia_optima
- Location: Pacific Northwest, USA
- Main keyboard: Filco 87 Red, AEKII, MX1800, MX3000
- Main mouse: Logitech G5
- Favorite switch: Blue MX
- DT Pro Member: -
Speaking only for BLUE switches, I gotta admit that the older ones were nicer.
I've done side-by-side comparisons with the following 2 keyboards:
1989 West German made G80-1800 w/Blues (NIB)
2009 Czech made G80-3000 w/Blues (NIB)
Appearance-wise, the only difference is the shade of blue; the vintage blue stems were what I would call azure, while the 2009 stems were just blue. The only interesting part is that the OLDER blue switches were consistently FIVE GRAMS lighter than the newer switches. Keep in mind that both of these boards were NIB.
Sorry I don't have pictures, these tests were done more than a year ago.
I've done side-by-side comparisons with the following 2 keyboards:
1989 West German made G80-1800 w/Blues (NIB)
2009 Czech made G80-3000 w/Blues (NIB)
Appearance-wise, the only difference is the shade of blue; the vintage blue stems were what I would call azure, while the 2009 stems were just blue. The only interesting part is that the OLDER blue switches were consistently FIVE GRAMS lighter than the newer switches. Keep in mind that both of these boards were NIB.
Sorry I don't have pictures, these tests were done more than a year ago.
- spolia_optima
- Location: Pacific Northwest, USA
- Main keyboard: Filco 87 Red, AEKII, MX1800, MX3000
- Main mouse: Logitech G5
- Favorite switch: Blue MX
- DT Pro Member: -
I suspect the same with brown and black switches: older, unused switches are a bit lighter than new switches. This is just from experience.
- TheSoulhunter
- Location: Euroland
- Main keyboard: KBC Poker / HHKB
- Main mouse: G9 / Deathadder BE
- Favorite switch: 65g Clears
- DT Pro Member: -
But seriously, even the cheap ones cost 200 bucks :/
- kbdfr
- The Tiproman
- Location: Berlin, Germany
- Main keyboard: Tipro MID-QM-128A + two Tipro matrix modules
- Main mouse: Contour Rollermouse Pro
- Favorite switch: Cherry black
- DT Pro Member: 0010
[irony mode on] Now obviously that's a piece of really topical information with genuine added value for anybody interested in the theme discussed in this thread. [Irony mode off]ripster wrote:You know what they say. Big thumb = big penis.
ripster is on my ignore list, but unfortunately I sometimes read deskthority threads without logging in and his postings are then displayed. I'm not sure why he consistently posts sexist and sex-related stuff completely unrelated to the topics, but I would suggest he refrains from doing it here.
[Account and posts deleted on request]
Last edited by cactux on 10 Oct 2011, 13:51, edited 1 time in total.
- TheSoulhunter
- Location: Euroland
- Main keyboard: KBC Poker / HHKB
- Main mouse: G9 / Deathadder BE
- Favorite switch: 65g Clears
- DT Pro Member: -
Actually its just a random image of a force gauge i found on the web...cactux wrote:Sorry to change a little bit the subject, but I notice that you have a force gage. Do you think you can let me know how much force is required to pullout a keycap in either a FILCO, Leopold, or MODEL M board?TheSoulhunter wrote:But seriously, even the cheap ones cost 200 bucks :/
It was a humorous reply to ripters "how to measure without coins" post which was removed >.>
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- Location: Germany
- DT Pro Member: -
If I compare to the two pictures in the opening thread:
At the new switches the upper left cherry circle is top alligned with the cherry text.
At the old switches the cherry is higher and bigger. (as on my picture)
Just compare where the top right edge of the Y is located compared to the upper left cherry.
EDIT:
I just remembered that I also own a G80-1800HAD and took a comparison photo. (added it to the post above)
You can see easily that the complete logo is smaller...
At the new switches the upper left cherry circle is top alligned with the cherry text.
At the old switches the cherry is higher and bigger. (as on my picture)
Just compare where the top right edge of the Y is located compared to the upper left cherry.
EDIT:
I just remembered that I also own a G80-1800HAD and took a comparison photo. (added it to the post above)
You can see easily that the complete logo is smaller...
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- Location: Malaysia
- DT Pro Member: -
Not sure whether the logo is accurate in determining whether the switch is vintage or not.
The 2551HAD was made in 1993, so it should be vintage. (serial number F 36)
I have the same WYSE keyboard shown in the picture below:
The switches has small CHERRY legend, but it was made in June 1993.
If the sizing is used to determine whether the switch is vintage or not, then this 1993 WYSE is not?
The 2551HAD was made in 1993, so it should be vintage. (serial number F 36)
I have the same WYSE keyboard shown in the picture below:
The switches has small CHERRY legend, but it was made in June 1993.
If the sizing is used to determine whether the switch is vintage or not, then this 1993 WYSE is not?
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- Location: Ugly American
- Main keyboard: As Long As It is Helvetica
- Main mouse: Mickey
- Favorite switch: Wanna Switch? Well, I Certainly Did!
- DT Pro Member: -
Latest RipOruster results after one year in the elements.
hmm... I'd add it here but...
http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?3119 ... RipOruster!
Perhaps Cherry MX is not rustproof, metal never is, but impressive nonetheless.
Safe to say ALPS can also handle a water bath (at least the switch). If bored I'll reassemble the switches and check conductivity.
http: //geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=29641
And don't stick your mechanical keyboards in the dishwasher. That would be stupid.
http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?3171 ... post600888
Bathing in the shower MIGHT work...
http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?3185 ... You-decide
hmm... I'd add it here but...
http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?3119 ... RipOruster!
Perhaps Cherry MX is not rustproof, metal never is, but impressive nonetheless.
Safe to say ALPS can also handle a water bath (at least the switch). If bored I'll reassemble the switches and check conductivity.
http: //geekhack.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=29641
And don't stick your mechanical keyboards in the dishwasher. That would be stupid.
http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?3171 ... post600888
Bathing in the shower MIGHT work...
http://geekhack.org/showthread.php?3185 ... You-decide
- off
- Location: the crapper, NL, EU
- DT Pro Member: -
Finally a moment to tell you, I still feel that your RipOruster is ripping people a new one.ripster wrote:Latest RipOruster results after one year in the elements.
The IBM spring at least is not comparable to the others, seeing how it touches a coin (that is clearly rusting) and has both a nail on one end, and a tack on the other (presumably with differing metal mixtures); ensuring corrosion taking place..
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- Location: Ugly American
- Main keyboard: As Long As It is Helvetica
- Main mouse: Mickey
- Favorite switch: Wanna Switch? Well, I Certainly Did!
- DT Pro Member: -
Experimental DESIGN FLAW!
Also in my link you can see that at Macro levels the pic shows slight oxidization at the spring/brad contact tips!
For anyone doing a PhD thesis using the RipOruster I suggest plastic tiedowns to hold the springs.
Hey, The FRENCH kids used my Wooden Buckling Spring Model in their Science Class. THAT must have got them laid that night!
http://geekhack.org/showwiki.php?title= ... post564781
Also in my link you can see that at Macro levels the pic shows slight oxidization at the spring/brad contact tips!
For anyone doing a PhD thesis using the RipOruster I suggest plastic tiedowns to hold the springs.
Hey, The FRENCH kids used my Wooden Buckling Spring Model in their Science Class. THAT must have got them laid that night!
http://geekhack.org/showwiki.php?title= ... post564781
The Keyboard Works Of Ripster. Would make a good coffee table book.hello,
we are French students.
As part of our studies, we make a model of a buckling spring keyboard key. We have seen the work of ripster and wanted to know if he could send us the characteristic of your models, particularly your spring.
we are makers of all councils, thanks.
Sincerely.
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- Location: Israel, Haifa
- Main keyboard: Apple Wireless Keyboard
- Main mouse: Logitech G600
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX blue
- DT Pro Member: -
Sorry to disturb the dead, but is there an audible difference in click pitch between the old and the new MX blue?
Also, is there a friction difference, as there is with the vintage and non-vintage blacks?
Also, is there a friction difference, as there is with the vintage and non-vintage blacks?