geotang wrote:Also, on a separate note, I've seen a lot of people put a lot of importance in the thickness of the cap. Is it that significant of a visible/tactile difference?
I wouldn't say so. I have thick WYSE keycaps, cherry keycaps, thin SP keycaps, etc. There isn't too much of a difference, though I imagine it'd be more pronounced with the resonation of bottoming out, though.
If you're reproducing a keycap for cherry ML, I imagine the effect would be less pronounced. I have no data, but I imagine the "click" of cherry blues wight have a different frequency based on the keycap, but I really ting this would be slight, or undetectable.
Really, thicker keycaps are "better" in my mind because they should be more resilient to dropping or stepping-on. Also, there is a heavier weight to the final keyboard, which may feel like better quality. In practice, as long as they can withstand being typed upon, any thickness should do.
Also, as ABS ages, it turns yellow (like WYSE sets) and gets slightly harder and more brittle (as the US radiation crosslinks the polymer, I believe. Since a thicker keycap starts with a higher ultimate strength, even fully yellowed, it'd be stronger than a thinner keycap. Also, a thicker one will take much longer for the "inside" to get brittle from UV or other sources. If you plan on keeping your keycaps for more than a decade or so, this should be a consideration.
Finally, it'll take longer to physically wear through the keycap. Keep in mind most of these aren't really concerns. There was a topic posted at GH where someone compared the tow, and preferred thinner keycaps.
Myself, I believe material matters much more, and I try to go with PBT/POM. My "spare set" is some excellent (thanks Quarzac!) condition lasered POM from cherry. All my "daily Driver" keyboards have PBT. Thickness isn't much of an issue for me.
But if you are printing them from scratch, why not have the maximum possible thickness to just barely clear the switch body?
Also, look into the possibility of ceramic keycaps. I'd very much like to get some. Did you know it's possible (even easy) to dyesub ceramic? I just wish we could get unglazed ceramic from shapeways. The glass of the glaze ultimately holds it together, as it seems they don't have the ovens to sinter them properly (it'd take at least 4Hours at 1000-1200C, and with a decent heating and cooling schedule, would tie up an oven for the best part of a day.)