You definitely want to keep GND and VCC apart. Short circuits between those two are what blow Teensies.
Igthorn's right: VCC is there for powering other active components. If you're driving a matrix, you want to use programmable pins for strobe and sense, not VCC or GND.
HyperMicro Development
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Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
If you're driving a matrix of LEDs (for Shine 3 style fancy stuff) those too will be pin to pin. VCC and GND are power rails for constantly on stuff, like regular backlighting.
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7bit
- Location: Berlin, DE
- Main keyboard: Tipro / IBM 3270 emulator
- Main mouse: Logitech granite for SGI
- Favorite switch: MX Lock
- DT Pro Member: 0001
OK, VCC will not be connected.
GND also not?
On the Phantom the LEDs go from a pin on the Teensy to a resistor and then into the LED and out again into a pin labeled GND.
GND also not?
On the Phantom the LEDs go from a pin on the Teensy to a resistor and then into the LED and out again into a pin labeled GND.
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Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
You're trying to keep all your options open, I see. But what do you want these LEDs to do? And how many are there?
If you hook an LED to ground, then youve tied it to a simple life doing one thing, controlled by the other pin. If you make a matrix of LEDs, just like the switch matrix, then you have made a fully programmable array of LEDs for doing all sorts of things, and just given yourself a headache.
It's possible, but LED arrays are not supported by Hasu's firmware etc., as far as I know. And they need just as many pins to work as a whole switch matrix.
If you hook an LED to ground, then youve tied it to a simple life doing one thing, controlled by the other pin. If you make a matrix of LEDs, just like the switch matrix, then you have made a fully programmable array of LEDs for doing all sorts of things, and just given yourself a headache.
It's possible, but LED arrays are not supported by Hasu's firmware etc., as far as I know. And they need just as many pins to work as a whole switch matrix.
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7bit
- Location: Berlin, DE
- Main keyboard: Tipro / IBM 3270 emulator
- Main mouse: Logitech granite for SGI
- Favorite switch: MX Lock
- DT Pro Member: 0001
As far as I understand:
A: For indicator LEDs, controller-pin->resistor->LED->GND is all I need.
B: For backlighting, a 25W mechanical light bulb or 2 candles are sufficient.
C: For fancy blinking lights in all colors, a separate matrix is needed and a lot of computing power.
My plan:
Make sure that A is working for some of the switches. B depends on how to solve the heat-problem and C requires yet another controller and a lot of clables ...
A: For indicator LEDs, controller-pin->resistor->LED->GND is all I need.
B: For backlighting, a 25W mechanical light bulb or 2 candles are sufficient.
C: For fancy blinking lights in all colors, a separate matrix is needed and a lot of computing power.
My plan:
Make sure that A is working for some of the switches. B depends on how to solve the heat-problem and C requires yet another controller and a lot of clables ...
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PJE
- Location: Michigan, USA
- Main keyboard: Happy Hacking 2 Lite
- Main mouse: Microsoft 4000
- DT Pro Member: -
LEDs operate via current flowing (typically up to 20mA, although low current LEDs are recommended) through them, and will drop the voltage by around 2V. You therefore need to have a series resistor to control the current flow.
Driving the LED can be via switching the supply voltage (Vcc), or the 0V (Gnd) connection. The Teensy has a limited ability to source or sink current, and therefore can only power a few low power LEDs without harm.
The simplest way to control individual LEDs would be via a dedicated driver chip, or use a higher power transistor controlled by the Teensy to turn on large numbers of LEDs. You have to be careful that you can supply sufficient power for all the LEDs. They can share a common supply rail, or be connected in a matrix to a suitable controller which may be sent commands via SPI, I2C or some other form such as a clocked shift register. Driving from 5V you can place two LEDs in series with a single resistor, and multiple sets in parallel up depending on the drive capabilities of the device switching the current.
I would recommend leaving the LEDs to a later version unless all you want to do is switch them all on at the same time via a software or hardware switch. In which case you could connect two LEDs in series through a resistor to the switched power source, and I'd recommend looking for high brightness low power LEDs.
Driving the LED can be via switching the supply voltage (Vcc), or the 0V (Gnd) connection. The Teensy has a limited ability to source or sink current, and therefore can only power a few low power LEDs without harm.
The simplest way to control individual LEDs would be via a dedicated driver chip, or use a higher power transistor controlled by the Teensy to turn on large numbers of LEDs. You have to be careful that you can supply sufficient power for all the LEDs. They can share a common supply rail, or be connected in a matrix to a suitable controller which may be sent commands via SPI, I2C or some other form such as a clocked shift register. Driving from 5V you can place two LEDs in series with a single resistor, and multiple sets in parallel up depending on the drive capabilities of the device switching the current.
I would recommend leaving the LEDs to a later version unless all you want to do is switch them all on at the same time via a software or hardware switch. In which case you could connect two LEDs in series through a resistor to the switched power source, and I'd recommend looking for high brightness low power LEDs.
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7bit
- Location: Berlin, DE
- Main keyboard: Tipro / IBM 3270 emulator
- Main mouse: Logitech granite for SGI
- Favorite switch: MX Lock
- DT Pro Member: 0001
Thanks PJE and Muirium!
But 5 or 6 indicator* LEDs should be OK?
And: Do I need a solder pad for GND on the keyboard or not?
----------------------------
*) Caps Lock, Num Lock, Scroll Lock, Alt Lock, Shift Lock, 7Bit Lock, Door Lock, ...
But 5 or 6 indicator* LEDs should be OK?
And: Do I need a solder pad for GND on the keyboard or not?
----------------------------
*) Caps Lock, Num Lock, Scroll Lock, Alt Lock, Shift Lock, 7Bit Lock, Door Lock, ...
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PJE
- Location: Michigan, USA
- Main keyboard: Happy Hacking 2 Lite
- Main mouse: Microsoft 4000
- DT Pro Member: -
Do you have sufficient spare pins? You would connect all the Gnd connections together, and then back to the Gnd pin on the Teensy. I usually fill the spare space on at least one layer with Gnd, which makes a nice connection point for the LEDs.
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PJE
- Location: Michigan, USA
- Main keyboard: Happy Hacking 2 Lite
- Main mouse: Microsoft 4000
- DT Pro Member: -
I'm not sure in kicad... I use a different package. In Easy-PC you add a copper pour shape and associate it to a net such as GND then invoke a fill of the shape. You need to redo the fill if you make changes so I fill it at the end, making a few edits to get as complete a fill as possible.7bit wrote:How is this done in kicad?
Maybe someone else can help you out on kicad.
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7bit
- Location: Berlin, DE
- Main keyboard: Tipro / IBM 3270 emulator
- Main mouse: Logitech granite for SGI
- Favorite switch: MX Lock
- DT Pro Member: 0001
I think I found it:
Add Zones (right under the icon "Add Tracks and Vias"). Now I know how to make that fancy frame around the PCB edges, I have seen in the Phantom file.
Add Zones (right under the icon "Add Tracks and Vias"). Now I know how to make that fancy frame around the PCB edges, I have seen in the Phantom file.
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Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
This ought to be interesting!
What about cases, though? Are these designed to need a plate for mounting to the case? And if you want to offer a PCB mount ability, where are the case mounts on the PCB?
Me, PJE and Pyrelink are working on an M84/MX board just now that's PCB mount only, and case mounting is a real design factor. Fortunately, our PCB is getting made by Matteo! So we can be generous with area.
What about cases, though? Are these designed to need a plate for mounting to the case? And if you want to offer a PCB mount ability, where are the case mounts on the PCB?
Me, PJE and Pyrelink are working on an M84/MX board just now that's PCB mount only, and case mounting is a real design factor. Fortunately, our PCB is getting made by Matteo! So we can be generous with area.
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7bit
- Location: Berlin, DE
- Main keyboard: Tipro / IBM 3270 emulator
- Main mouse: Logitech granite for SGI
- Favorite switch: MX Lock
- DT Pro Member: 0001
Maybe I should add some holes. I still feel that there are not enough holes in the PCB,
as long as there is unoccupied space left.
However, keyboard cases are not my business. There are other people who are better at this.
as long as there is unoccupied space left.
However, keyboard cases are not my business. There are other people who are better at this.
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tlem
- Location: Canada
- Main keyboard: ergodox
- Main mouse: cm storm spawn
- DT Pro Member: -
- trace to clean up
- h1.GIF (14.64 KiB) Viewed 3316 times
- another trace to clean up
- h2.GIF (14.82 KiB) Viewed 3316 times
- check with your manufacturer if there is enough space between the copper and board edge
- h3.GIF (10.77 KiB) Viewed 3316 times
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Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
All those holes at the front are for the pointing device, right? Because the one place you don't want to put anything extraneous is down there, where the keyboard must be thinnest.
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Findecanor
- Location: Stockholm, Sweden
- DT Pro Member: 0011
Why are the LEDs on the front of the switch? For locking keys, I can see why they should be front, but don't backlit keycaps most often have the legends on the back?
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7bit
- Location: Berlin, DE
- Main keyboard: Tipro / IBM 3270 emulator
- Main mouse: Logitech granite for SGI
- Favorite switch: MX Lock
- DT Pro Member: 0001
This would mean to mount the switches upside-down. There is no space for that.
I've improved the whole thing a bit:
I've improved the whole thing a bit:
- HyperMicro_PCBg_412.png (1.12 MiB) Viewed 3237 times
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7bit
- Location: Berlin, DE
- Main keyboard: Tipro / IBM 3270 emulator
- Main mouse: Logitech granite for SGI
- Favorite switch: MX Lock
- DT Pro Member: 0001
I need some people who test the prototypes!
It is required that you have experience in the field.
PCBs and later the mount plates will be for free, including some switches and controller.
Please let me know if you are interested.
It is required that you have experience in the field.
PCBs and later the mount plates will be for free, including some switches and controller.
Please let me know if you are interested.
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HzFaq
- Location: Windsor, UK
- Main keyboard: Phantom
- Main mouse: CST L-Trac
- Favorite switch: MX Clears
- DT Pro Member: -
I'm interested in testing too, I've made a couple of custom boards and a converter or two (hasu ADB>USB and soarers), played around with firmwares etc. Not sure what else you need from your testers but I'll help if I can.
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7bit
- Location: Berlin, DE
- Main keyboard: Tipro / IBM 3270 emulator
- Main mouse: Logitech granite for SGI
- Favorite switch: MX Lock
- DT Pro Member: 0001
Here is the current ranking:
The requirements are:
Build the keyboard and test if everything works as intended, ie all solder-points are connected and everything fits etc.
Code: Select all
31|Muirium
160|HzFaq
202|sth
The requirements are:
Build the keyboard and test if everything works as intended, ie all solder-points are connected and everything fits etc.