So, i've thought about maybe having a go at throwing a keyboard together while i wait for Ellipse's new F. My first idea was to try to find something used for not too much money, but then my DIY gene(i usually dabble in amps, dacs) kicked in and i started looking at the parts needed and it doesnt seem too daunting.
Quickly i found out about mounting plates, and that people tend to either get these through GBs, or have them made. I happen to have a connection at a local waterjet cutting shop(abrasive cutting), and the thought struck me. Materials.
How big an impact in the feel would you gentlemen(and ladies) say the mounting plate has? I've read that people are not universally happy with aluminium. Also i've found out that in order for a Cherry switch(presumably Alps as well?) to snap in as intended the thickness of the plate should be 1.5mm. Not a very thick plate, and especially with all those holes.
Stainless is better(harder) than Aluminium, but tend to be on the pricy side. It would appear most mouning plates outside enthusiast circles is some kind of mild steel, or at least some type of ferrous metal(due to reports of rust).
After some more research i found Hardox, specifically the 450CR variety, available in thin sheets. This is the stuff used in earth movers and for metal parts that come into prolonged contact with very hard materials. Blows stainless out of the water and second only to hardened tool steel among the steels. I think i'll shoot the waterjet folks an email, ask what the thinnest Hardlox they have on hand is and ask if they have any small odd pieces, might be able to squeeze out a tkl plate.
Reference on the hardnesses:
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brinell_scale
Mounting plate materials
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- Location: Stockholm, Sweden
- DT Pro Member: 0011
Do also look at different types of aluminium. The series typical for sheet metal is widely considered too soft.
- fohat
- Elder Messenger
- Location: Knoxville, Tennessee, USA
- Main keyboard: Model F 122-key terminal
- Main mouse: Microsoft Optical Mouse
- Favorite switch: Model F Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0158
Given a choice, I would always take a thicker softer steel. The "warm and fuzzy" resonance is what I would be looking for.
Given a choice between 2 steels of equal thickness and weight, I would still opt for the softer one.
Given the choice of brass or steel, I would gladly choose brass.
But that is just me.
Given a choice between 2 steels of equal thickness and weight, I would still opt for the softer one.
Given the choice of brass or steel, I would gladly choose brass.
But that is just me.
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- Location: Sweden
- Main keyboard: Apple Extended / PC/XT Model F
- Favorite switch: Buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: -
Aha, so harder is not neccesarily better then, because i too am after that "warm and fuzzy" feeling.
Good old brass then, should be cheap, and easy to find in a suitable thickness. Glad you guys talked some sense into me.
Good old brass then, should be cheap, and easy to find in a suitable thickness. Glad you guys talked some sense into me.
- fohat
- Elder Messenger
- Location: Knoxville, Tennessee, USA
- Main keyboard: Model F 122-key terminal
- Main mouse: Microsoft Optical Mouse
- Favorite switch: Model F Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0158
Understand that I am a contrarian. I feel that there is a complex relationship of compression and tension between the internal plates of a Model F and that is why I question the "revivals" that use different techniques for holding it all together.
That is also why I use thicker and firmer foam, adding pressure from the center outwards. That, in my opinion, firms up the result and makes the "key feel" tighter, and simultaneously keeps the sound less rattly.
That is also why I use thicker and firmer foam, adding pressure from the center outwards. That, in my opinion, firms up the result and makes the "key feel" tighter, and simultaneously keeps the sound less rattly.
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- Location: Sweden
- Main keyboard: Apple Extended / PC/XT Model F
- Favorite switch: Buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: -
At the risk of going slightly OT, what are the specs of your foam? I'll give the forum search a go just in case you've made a thread on it.
I'm still on my original foam(barely used keyboard, unlike many Fs), and the keyfeel is great to me, but then again, it is the only F i can recall typing on. The feel when they bottom out is firm, yet not uncomfortable so. It seems though(could well be imagination) that as i type for longer sessions on it, the speed goes up and i stop bottoming out at all, and at that point it feels more like a gentle massage for the fingers, just barely pushing beyond the buckling force and feeling that satisfying tactility of it giving way, signalling that it is time to move on to the next character.
I type without looking, but am not a touch typist, i just go from muscle memory. The space bar is irritatingly stiff, so eventually i think i'll have a go and reshaping that wire, it does not seem to loose any stiffness from me pounding on it.
I did open it up to take pictures of it, but have never separated it, i thought it was pretty tricky just to get it to close easily, i finally lined everything up and it closed up fine without resistance.
I was under the impression Ellipse was very meticulous in his effort to emulate the feel, sound and mechanics of the venerable F, but perhaps you are referring to other efforts? Anyways i have high hopes that when the Ellipse F finally lands it will be a quite usable board. As Elrick says, if not for us then for our children to enjoy.
I'm still on my original foam(barely used keyboard, unlike many Fs), and the keyfeel is great to me, but then again, it is the only F i can recall typing on. The feel when they bottom out is firm, yet not uncomfortable so. It seems though(could well be imagination) that as i type for longer sessions on it, the speed goes up and i stop bottoming out at all, and at that point it feels more like a gentle massage for the fingers, just barely pushing beyond the buckling force and feeling that satisfying tactility of it giving way, signalling that it is time to move on to the next character.
I type without looking, but am not a touch typist, i just go from muscle memory. The space bar is irritatingly stiff, so eventually i think i'll have a go and reshaping that wire, it does not seem to loose any stiffness from me pounding on it.
I did open it up to take pictures of it, but have never separated it, i thought it was pretty tricky just to get it to close easily, i finally lined everything up and it closed up fine without resistance.
I was under the impression Ellipse was very meticulous in his effort to emulate the feel, sound and mechanics of the venerable F, but perhaps you are referring to other efforts? Anyways i have high hopes that when the Ellipse F finally lands it will be a quite usable board. As Elrick says, if not for us then for our children to enjoy.
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- Location: Cape Town, South Africa
- Main keyboard: MS Natural (original)
- Main mouse: Kensington Expert Mouse trackball
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
FWIW, I'm also going to try brass.. have bought the plate. It will be for Keyboard 2, once I finish Keyboard 1 (using aluminium plate).yac wrote: ↑Aha, so harder is not neccesarily better then, because i too am after that "warm and fuzzy" feeling.
Good old brass then, should be cheap, and easy to find in a suitable thickness. Glad you guys talked some sense into me.
Considerable weight difference between the two... ... hopefully will help to stop keyboard skating around on desk.
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- Location: Sweden
- Main keyboard: Apple Extended / PC/XT Model F
- Favorite switch: Buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: -
It might, but if i were you i'd try to find some thin anti-skid feet at a craft store or possibly the hardware store. Even the slightest hint of movement is jarring.
Come to think of it, maybe tap some holes in the bottom of the keyboard, drill holes in the desk and bolt that sucker from below.
Come to think of it, maybe tap some holes in the bottom of the keyboard, drill holes in the desk and bolt that sucker from below.
- fohat
- Elder Messenger
- Location: Knoxville, Tennessee, USA
- Main keyboard: Model F 122-key terminal
- Main mouse: Microsoft Optical Mouse
- Favorite switch: Model F Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0158
(?) Nobody will do this (?), but I believe that it would make for a truly awesome keyboard experience.yac wrote: ↑
tap some holes in the bottom of the keyboard, drill holes in the desk and bolt that sucker from below