SKCC Alps Project
-
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: AEK II Mitsumi (rotating)
- Main mouse: G203
- Favorite switch: Orange Alps
- DT Pro Member: -
Hey deskthority! This is officially my first ever post on here, though I've been meaning to make an account on here for a while. I wanted to ask for some help on a project of mine, thats been going on for a while now. Mostly due to shipping times from Alliexpress and doubtfulness.
So, just like I recently saw on r/mechanicalkeyboards, I want to make an ALPS SKCC board since I feel they are my favorite linear switch I have tried to date. Though I love tactile switches, I feel that good ones are few and far between. Besides, I already have a smashed up TRS-80!
Anyhow, I wanted to create a 40% keyboard with SKCC switches. Odd, I know. I wanted to be able to use it while I am out and about, schooling and such. So heres the layout I came up with:
https://imgur.com/a/Xrvrg
Of course I want to change the layout now, but I don't have any cross mount keycaps that could work as a 3u spacebar. If anyone has something like that, please let me know!
I hope to build a mostly wooden case, with some latches to hold down a wooden cover over the keyboard when not in use. The wooden case part ought to be easy, me coming from a family of carpenters. The hardest part so far for me have been the following things:
- I, for some reason, want a solenoid. I feel it would work great with the wood casing, but I don't know exactly how to wire one to an on/off switch which would also be wired to the keyswitches. Ultimately I wanted to be able to turn the solenoid on and off, while still being able to type on the board.
- Secondly, I have no idea how to get a plate for this thing. I though about buying a scrap plate for the Apple m0110 and cutting it down, but I don't know if that will fit all the keys I want. Furthermore...
- I have two different ways of tackling this. From what I have seen, SKCC has the same pinout as SKCM, so I can use a Daisy 40% PCB that I originally got for some orange alps I acquired. Or, I can wire it all up to a teensy.
- This being my first time, some help with diodes would be greatly appreciated. Absolutely no idea how those work.
- Finally, I was hoping to find where I can get some holtite pins so I can hotswap the switches
That's among a bunch of other complications that will arise in this build, if it is ever complete. I know I'm asking for a lot, but I was wondering if anyone could share their thoughts on this? It would be great if you did!
So, just like I recently saw on r/mechanicalkeyboards, I want to make an ALPS SKCC board since I feel they are my favorite linear switch I have tried to date. Though I love tactile switches, I feel that good ones are few and far between. Besides, I already have a smashed up TRS-80!
Anyhow, I wanted to create a 40% keyboard with SKCC switches. Odd, I know. I wanted to be able to use it while I am out and about, schooling and such. So heres the layout I came up with:
https://imgur.com/a/Xrvrg
Of course I want to change the layout now, but I don't have any cross mount keycaps that could work as a 3u spacebar. If anyone has something like that, please let me know!
I hope to build a mostly wooden case, with some latches to hold down a wooden cover over the keyboard when not in use. The wooden case part ought to be easy, me coming from a family of carpenters. The hardest part so far for me have been the following things:
- I, for some reason, want a solenoid. I feel it would work great with the wood casing, but I don't know exactly how to wire one to an on/off switch which would also be wired to the keyswitches. Ultimately I wanted to be able to turn the solenoid on and off, while still being able to type on the board.
- Secondly, I have no idea how to get a plate for this thing. I though about buying a scrap plate for the Apple m0110 and cutting it down, but I don't know if that will fit all the keys I want. Furthermore...
- I have two different ways of tackling this. From what I have seen, SKCC has the same pinout as SKCM, so I can use a Daisy 40% PCB that I originally got for some orange alps I acquired. Or, I can wire it all up to a teensy.
- This being my first time, some help with diodes would be greatly appreciated. Absolutely no idea how those work.
- Finally, I was hoping to find where I can get some holtite pins so I can hotswap the switches
That's among a bunch of other complications that will arise in this build, if it is ever complete. I know I'm asking for a lot, but I was wondering if anyone could share their thoughts on this? It would be great if you did!
Last edited by consideringquiet on 06 Jan 2018, 23:33, edited 1 time in total.
-
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: AEK II Mitsumi (rotating)
- Main mouse: G203
- Favorite switch: Orange Alps
- DT Pro Member: -
Also, I happen to be doing a school project based on comparisons of keyswitches. So, stay tuned for that!
- seebart
- Offtopicthority Instigator
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: Rotation
- Main mouse: Steelseries Sensei
- Favorite switch: IBM capacitive buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: 0061
- Contact:
Also used SKCC switches can feel really shitty and cannot be cleaned like SKCM. So you better find new ones or be sure they are clean which might not be easy. Sounds like a cool project, good luck!
-
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: AEK II Mitsumi (rotating)
- Main mouse: G203
- Favorite switch: Orange Alps
- DT Pro Member: -
I actually might end up taking out some SKCC Greens from an IBM Pingmaster that I have, new old stock. So hopefully that will avoid the whole cleaning thingSseebart wrote: ↑Also used SKCC switches can feel really shitty and cannot be cleaned like SKCM. So you better find new ones or be sure they are clean which might not be easy. Sounds like a cool project, good luck!
-
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: AEK II Mitsumi (rotating)
- Main mouse: G203
- Favorite switch: Orange Alps
- DT Pro Member: -
Oh I'm just gonna use the cross mount caps from the TRS-80Chyros wrote: ↑Please note that SKCC caps use a different mount from MX caps, so sourcing nonstandard ones will be tricky .
- seebart
- Offtopicthority Instigator
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: Rotation
- Main mouse: Steelseries Sensei
- Favorite switch: IBM capacitive buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: 0061
- Contact:
Nope, not in the same way. Much more tedious to open them. Close to impossible for many like myself. You and consideringquiet may be able to do so with "ease" on the other hand.Engicoder wrote: ↑They can be disassembled like SKCM.
Then you are set regarding the switches.consideringquiet wrote: ↑I actually might end up taking out some SKCC Greens from an IBM Pingmaster that I have, new old stock. So hopefully that will avoid the whole cleaning thingS
Last edited by seebart on 06 Jan 2018, 23:47, edited 1 time in total.
-
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: AEK II Mitsumi (rotating)
- Main mouse: G203
- Favorite switch: Orange Alps
- DT Pro Member: -
I think he means that they cant be disassembled while still soldered in. Or that they are incredibly difficult to put back together.
I don't have much luck taking apart Alps SKCM switches in the first place, (successful, sort of, once out of three tries). So I might just steer clear from taking them apart to begin with.
- seebart
- Offtopicthority Instigator
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: Rotation
- Main mouse: Steelseries Sensei
- Favorite switch: IBM capacitive buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: 0061
- Contact:
Taking apart SKCM is easier than taking apart SKCC any way you cut it.
-
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: AEK II Mitsumi (rotating)
- Main mouse: G203
- Favorite switch: Orange Alps
- DT Pro Member: -
Nope, not me! I had to take apart an Orange Alps switch because of a broken off keystem in the switch.. I managed to put in a white stem as replacement but I didn't quite manage to put the tactile leaf in correctly, so its sort of a rough linear switch now. Basically, my hands are way too shaky to be a neurosurgeon or a key switch cleaner!
- seebart
- Offtopicthority Instigator
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: Rotation
- Main mouse: Steelseries Sensei
- Favorite switch: IBM capacitive buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: 0061
- Contact:
Right, I'm not saying either are "easy" to deal with. There are people who can do that much better than others.consideringquiet wrote: ↑Nope, not me! I had to take apart an Orange Alps switch because of a broken off keystem in the switch.. I managed to put in a white stem as replacement but I didn't quite manage to put the tactile leaf in correctly, so its sort of a rough linear switch now. Basically, my hands are way too shaky to be a neurosurgeon or a key switch cleaner!
-
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: AEK II Mitsumi (rotating)
- Main mouse: G203
- Favorite switch: Orange Alps
- DT Pro Member: -
I just hope they have the right pinout, I haven't been able to desolder any yet to test fitseebart wrote: ↑Nope, not in the same way. Much more tedious to open them. Close to impossible for many like myself. You and consideringquiet may be able to do so with "ease" on the other hand.Engicoder wrote: ↑They can be disassembled like SKCM.
Then you are set regarding the switches.consideringquiet wrote: ↑I actually might end up taking out some SKCC Greens from an IBM Pingmaster that I have, new old stock. So hopefully that will avoid the whole cleaning thingS
-
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: AEK II Mitsumi (rotating)
- Main mouse: G203
- Favorite switch: Orange Alps
- DT Pro Member: -
Aw I'm just joking around. I'm not willing to test my luck with disassembly though. The TRS 80 didn't look too dirty when I got it, though. Just a bit stiff overall, but I think that has to do with the weighting of SKCC Cream no?seebart wrote: ↑
Right, I'm not saying either are "easy" to deal with. There are people who can do that much better than others.
- seebart
- Offtopicthority Instigator
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: Rotation
- Main mouse: Steelseries Sensei
- Favorite switch: IBM capacitive buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: 0061
- Contact:
I also own the IBM "Pingmaster" (hate that name) but I could never sacrifice any part of it for anything else but I like the idea of your project!
keyboards-f2/ibm-part-no-6112884-t11815 ... %206112884
keyboards-f2/ibm-part-no-6112884-t11815 ... %206112884
-
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: AEK II Mitsumi (rotating)
- Main mouse: G203
- Favorite switch: Orange Alps
- DT Pro Member: -
The name does kinda make you think the board isnt as great as it isseebart wrote: ↑I also own the IBM "Pingmaster" (hate that name) but I could never sacrifice any part of it for anything else but I like the idea of your project!
keyboards-f2/ibm-part-no-6112884-t11815 ... %206112884
I might very well just use the switches from the TRS-80, they seemed to be in pretty fair condition anyhow, the backplate was also barely dirty. I got really lucky with it being local and all
- seebart
- Offtopicthority Instigator
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: Rotation
- Main mouse: Steelseries Sensei
- Favorite switch: IBM capacitive buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: 0061
- Contact:
Exactly! The name is not worthy of such a great keyboard. Of course it does "ping" like many vintage KB's.consideringquiet wrote: ↑The name does kinda make you think the board isnt as great as it is
Cool.consideringquiet wrote: ↑I might very well just use the switches from the TRS-80, they seemed to be in pretty fair condition anyhow, the backplate was also barely dirty. I got really lucky with it being local and all
-
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: AEK II Mitsumi (rotating)
- Main mouse: G203
- Favorite switch: Orange Alps
- DT Pro Member: -
*cough* Apple M0110 *cough*seebart wrote: ↑Exactly! The name is not worthy of such a great keyboard. Of course it does "ping" like many vintage KB's.consideringquiet wrote: ↑The name does kinda make you think the board isnt as great as it is
Cool.consideringquiet wrote: ↑I might very well just use the switches from the TRS-80, they seemed to be in pretty fair condition anyhow, the backplate was also barely dirty. I got really lucky with it being local and all
-
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: AEK II Mitsumi (rotating)
- Main mouse: G203
- Favorite switch: Orange Alps
- DT Pro Member: -
Really? From where?Chyros wrote: ↑You can buy SKCC NOS, there's an enormous stock of them left.
- Chyros
- Location: The Netherlands
- Main keyboard: whatever I'm reviewing next :p
- Main mouse: a cheap Logitech
- Favorite switch: Alps SKCM Blue
- DT Pro Member: -
-
- Location: NC, USA
- DT Pro Member: 0117
https://www.ebay.com/itm/ALPS-Vintage-K ... 2551024398
Same seller has other auctions for different quantities including 4000!
Same seller has other auctions for different quantities including 4000!
-
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: AEK II Mitsumi (rotating)
- Main mouse: G203
- Favorite switch: Orange Alps
- DT Pro Member: -
Thanks a million!Chyros wrote: ↑It was on eBay for a while, I think they're on Taobao now. I don't have a link myself, but I'm sure someone here does .
Whoa, thanks!! Is one dollar per switch the normal price?Engicoder wrote: ↑https://www.ebay.com/itm/ALPS-Vintage-K ... 2551024398
Same seller has other auctions for different quantities including 4000!
- Chyros
- Location: The Netherlands
- Main keyboard: whatever I'm reviewing next :p
- Main mouse: a cheap Logitech
- Favorite switch: Alps SKCM Blue
- DT Pro Member: -
It's not cheap, but certainly not extortionate. For NOS vintage switches that aren't otherwise easy to get hold of I'd say it's pretty decent.consideringquiet wrote: ↑Thanks a million!Chyros wrote: ↑It was on eBay for a while, I think they're on Taobao now. I don't have a link myself, but I'm sure someone here does .
Whoa, thanks!! Is one dollar per switch the normal price?Engicoder wrote: ↑https://www.ebay.com/itm/ALPS-Vintage-K ... 2551024398
Same seller has other auctions for different quantities including 4000!
-
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: AEK II Mitsumi (rotating)
- Main mouse: G203
- Favorite switch: Orange Alps
- DT Pro Member: -
Is there a similar way of buying solenoids?Chyros wrote: ↑It's not cheap, but certainly not extortionate. For NOS vintage switches that aren't otherwise easy to get hold of I'd say it's pretty decent.
- Chyros
- Location: The Netherlands
- Main keyboard: whatever I'm reviewing next :p
- Main mouse: a cheap Logitech
- Favorite switch: Alps SKCM Blue
- DT Pro Member: -
Solenoids are pretty standard components, and all they do is jackhammer against the case. Technically you could use other solenoids as well.
- FXT
- XT
- Location: North Carolina
- Main keyboard: F107/F122/XT/3278
- Favorite switch: Buckling springs
- DT Pro Member: 0204
Would you happen to have any more information? I'm quite interested in adding a solenoid to one of my boards but I haven't been able to find any information about anyone adding a solenoid that wasn't from an IBM board.Chyros wrote: ↑Solenoids are pretty standard components, and all they do is jackhammer against the case. Technically you could use other solenoids as well.
-
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: AEK II Mitsumi (rotating)
- Main mouse: G203
- Favorite switch: Orange Alps
- DT Pro Member: -
I've seen a few on alliexpress, my trouble is finding one that i could somehow wire up to my board... No idea how hahaFXT wrote: ↑Would you happen to have any more information? I'm quite interested in adding a solenoid to one of my boards but I haven't been able to find any information about anyone adding a solenoid that wasn't from an IBM board.Chyros wrote: ↑Solenoids are pretty standard components, and all they do is jackhammer against the case. Technically you could use other solenoids as well.
- OldIsNew
- Location: US
- DT Pro Member: 0248
If you're planning on using a Teensy/Arduino as a controller for your board, it's not that difficult to add a 5V solenoid directly driven by the Teensy. Here are a link about making a driver circuit and a link with a source for 5V solenoids (I'm sure there are plenty of others).consideringquiet wrote: ↑I've seen a few on alliexpress, my trouble is finding one that i could somehow wire up to my board... No idea how hahaFXT wrote: ↑ Would you happen to have any more information? I'm quite interested in adding a solenoid to one of my boards but I haven't been able to find any information about anyone adding a solenoid that wasn't from an IBM board.
Solenoid driver circuit: https://core-electronics.com.au/tutoria ... duino.html
5V solenoid: https://www.adafruit.com/product/2776
This was the driver I made for my Fluke 5V solenoid:
Link to my post: workshop-f7/scratchy-fluke-1720a-switches-t17428.html
Driving a larger solenoid would require some additional circuitry to step up the voltage or a secondary voltage supply, but I was able to get the simple 5V driver working without difficulty. Someone with some actual electronics experience could probably help if you wanted to make a driver for a larger solenoid.