deskthority

I have a Logitech G710+ and a Realforce 87U, as well as a 104U silent. If you thought the G710+ was a bit too light, you don't want 45g Topre switches because the weighting feels pretty close to the G710+, in my opinion. If you're going to buy a Realforce, get the 87U (55g). Personally, I prefer var...

The easy way is to get one of these. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Soarers-Converter-Adapter-for-IBM-Model-F-122-Keyboard-Remapping-Macros-NKR-/271644933588?hash=item3f3f4cbdd4 If there's any downside to that adapter it's that it doesn't have a reset switch, though it's probably irrelevant considerin...

Sphericals. Yes.

I'm pretty sure the metal clip / wire that's attached to the underside of the space bar (not the stabilizer) is a ground wire. None of my M's have one, and dare I say I don't think it's necessary. Not that I'm recommending you remove it.

That Industrial SSK with blank caps looks nice, but I could care less about the standard 101 key industrial M.

I'll be honest. I wouldn't want an industrial M even if they were $20(well, maybe I would if only to resell it for bank), and a lot of it comes down to the color, which does absolutely nothing for me, but that's me. Personally, I think they're ugly.

cinnamonrollz wrote: ↑yes thats it, now im curious what its worth. I've got a flawless mint condition one that i dont care for.

Even in mint condition, you're probably looking at somewhere around $30 - $40. They don't sell very well on eBay.

I've never had a problem using 91% isopropyl alcohol to clean the case, including the badge.

The brackets are transplantable? They're not readily interchangeable, no. However, if you dremel them out of an old Model M or F and epoxy them over the (dremeled out and ground down) brackets of (your keyboard here), I don't see why that wouldn't work. Not the most convenient solution, I know, but...

I'd be averse to try it unless I had an F-122 whose bracket(s) was/were broken. I'd also prefer to steal brackets from an old, disheveled Model M (which shouldn't be hard to come by on eBay) rather than make new ones(a la fohat). Have you tried taking the space bar off of your F-122 and sticking it ...

I noticed the space bar on my F-122's sounded louder / noisier than the ones on my AT / XT F's as well, which initially lead me to adjust the wire stabilizer. That helped to some extent. Granted, it's still there, but it tightened up the sound a bit. I don't think there's any way to fully eliminate ...

Thanks. I just ordered several.

Thank you. I ended up sanding down the sides of my Unicomp inserts to make them fit.

I'm finishing an ANSI mod on a 122 key Model F but I need insert stabilizer sleeves for the empty barrels as the Model M inserts do not fit. Any suggestions or advice would be appreciated.

No problem. If you need any help with the build, let me know.

E TwentyNine wrote:I think that's the XTant. Custom barrel plate and PCB. It's more of a custom keyboard in an XT case.

It is beautiful work

Your board is more aesthetically pleasing, in my opinion.

I originally considered pulling the spring from the key beside left Shift in order to fit it with a Shift key from a Model M, but I haven't mustered up the courage to actually do it. The 1.25x shift keys are ample for me, and I found a good use for the backslash key by making into a left Fn key. Th...

I originally considered pulling the spring from the key beside left Shift in order to fit it with a Shift key from a Model M, but I haven't mustered up the courage to actually do it.

That said, I would prefer an ANSI left Shift and Enter key. There's a tutorial that shows how to modify them, however I'm not brave enough to go to the extent that the mod requires. For me, it's a minor quibble, though. If you type on it long enough, you may find that you actually prefer the defaul...

I just built an external converter using a female 5 pin DIN 240 degree connector a couple of days ago for my terminal Model F. A cinch to build and works a treat. I purchased the connector here . Wire it to the solder pads on the Teensy via Soarer's diagram, load Soarer's firmware, and you're in bus...

I'm going to have to beg to differ on that point. As I missed the dedicated navigation cluster and the ALTs, I came up with this: http://i.imgur.com/BG7pTOe.jpg ( Build here: http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=52379 ) I love the color scheme. I think this mod brings the AT closer to a Space Saver ...

My keyboard ownership progression is as follows: IBM Model M --> XT Model F --> AT Model F --> 122-key Model F What I like about the Model M is the layout and build quality, however I always felt the actuation force was a bit too high for my taste. I'd been hearing such good things about the key fee...

webwit wrote:It makes me wonder what they did make

Maybe springs and hammers.

Thanks!

Is the 122-key Model F 2KRO or NKRO?

I like the green.

Other than the overt case flex, creaking, shoddy finish, and poor key cap flashing, Unicomp's are decent quality boards. I have one in storage I'll probably never use so long as I have a Model F in my possession.

I have a Unicomp Ultra Classic, which I love dearly. But, since it is a new version of the Model M, I was wondering if the Model M was any different. Does anyone here have a Model M as well as a Unicomp, and can tell me the differences, if there are any? I have a Unicomp Classic and, in my opinion,...