deskthority

WhiskyTangoLima wrote: ↑

31 Mar 2024, 16:50

What offers would you accept? I have not kept track of the current valuations of these.

I'll PM you!

bump

I'm looking to sell my Apple boards. Sadly I've not been using them and I need to free some space. Apple IIGS Keyboard - Pictures https://i.imgur.com/jPmIx31.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/H1REOJx.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/cl3D8xO.jpeg Apple M0118 - Pictures https://i.imgur.com/aKaR7yd.jpeg https://i.imgur...

Hi there Deskthority! Its my first time posting here and I just have a little question. So I found an old AEK II with cream dampened alps awhile ago and so far, it has just been sitting on my desk for while without getting the use it deserves. I plan on desoldering the switches and putting them in ...

I have a very similar (if not identical) keyboard. They're "linear" alps clones. Too bad they're so fucking scratchy they feel tactile.

I touch type correctly on qwerty, the only "incorrect" thing I do is press D and C with my index.

How did you clean the switches?
Maybe the switches are just fucked beyond repair.

remove the keycap, hold the switch down, drop a couple of drops of isopropyl alcohol in it, then press it like 200 times.

If your switches stick because of dust/gunk/whatever, this will clean em a bit.

Aaaaaaaaaaaaaalmost, but not quite. Split the Tab key, so we can have Tab (on the left side) and BackTab (on the right side). Swap → and ↑. Caps Lock is still there... using the key that definitely should be Enter. Swap PgUp and PgDn. lol, i forgot about capslock. Thought that I removed it. Here's ...

The switch should also be special: it should make a clicky sound about half-a-travel, but only actuate on bottoming out: a consistent, if not entirely expected, behavior: people should not unlearn bottoming out, since they may have to use rubberdome keyboards from time to time. How about a switch t...

Well... needs more work. Remember: "this thing should superficially look like a normal layout, but actually be annoying to the point of near -uselessness." Also, that Enter key is excessively large. Screams for Latin Enter instead. I made another one! And this time it looks normal... at first glanc...

While chatting about it on the Telegram channel mind sharing a link? t.me/deskthority Thanks. By the way, here's my layout! https://i.imgur.com/lLXd40z.png As you can see, there are many features borrowed from the space cadet keyboard that everyone loves! I've also included a feature that I love ab...

depletedvespene wrote: ↑ While chatting about it on the Telegram channel

mind sharing a link?

Yes! It's a rubber mat. One has severe rust stains. I can't imagine working inside an NES controller. And to think I thought a 101 key model M was tight. so it's the one that sits between the flippers and the membrane, right? You can wash it, it should clean wery well, or you can use the keyboard w...

Model M's don't have foam afaik, and I never had any problems with the converter on my m122, maybe you should check your wiring

Chyros wrote: ↑ felt CRAZY.

what do you mean by that? crazy good or crazy bad?

Retr0bright should not be able to get the result brighter than the original colour, at least not evenly. When ABS has been overbleached, there are brighter streaks in the plastic and the plastic gets brittle. is there any way to fix these streaks? I got some streaks on my AEK (not my AEK2 tho, idk ...

you can remove the faulty switch by desoldering it and replace it. I've also seen some people suggest removing the keycap, pressing the switch with a toothpick or something small, dropping a couple of drops of isopropyl alcohol, then pressing the switch ~100 times or you can contact Logitech, they w...

found this m0110
https://www.subito.it/vi/260151364.htm
any Italians interested? you can probably get the price down by a bit

I tried putting some brand new g710 keycaps (don't want to ruin good caps) on the box navies I have laying around. First off, they're way harder to install and remove, compared to Cherry(tried both vint black and brown). And yes, the stems start to show stress marks and cracks pretty fast. Keep in m...

Found this M122 battleship: https://www.subito.it/vi/259257333.htm
I already have an identical one, otherwise I would've bought it
This is an Italian site so I'm pretty sure that the seller only ships to Italy.

The manufacturer and model number are right there, and "Key Tronic" is very well known so I find it weird that you did not find much info. It is a regular old rubber dome keyboard. Nothing special. There are adapters from the large DIN plug ("AT") to mini-DIN plug ("PS/2") which is still be support...

did you open it up? maybe the PCB is a bit dirty.

I have an aek with orange + aekii with cream. not NIB.

Hi, I have an AEK I with orange alps that I restored. Retrobrighted the case and spacebar, cleaned the case and the plate (not the motherboard under the plate tho). All the keys work perfectly. I have the original cable. The only problem is that the spacebar is *slightly* warped. Doesn't influence t...

that's fucking beautiful. how big is it in comparison to a regular Battleship?

mark201200 wrote: ↑Here's my Battleship



here's a prettier picture

I also have a Model M, an M2, AEK, AEKII but i don't have any pics

Here's my Battleship



here's a prettier picture

So, it turns out that these are linear. They're so fucking scratchy that I thought they were tactile, also the key feel is extremely inconsistent. http://u.cubeupload.com/mark201200/alpsclone01.jpg http://u.cubeupload.com/mark201200/alpsclone02.jpg http://u.cubeupload.com/mark201200/alpsclone03.jpg

Hey, i got this keyboard alongside some (original) apple boards. Considering that it's an AEK Clone, and that green ALPS have the LED hole, I'm pretty sure that those are probably ALPS clones. Can simeone identify them? Is the keyboard worth restoring? Also, how do you remove that piece of keycap s...