deskthority

Good job, Wingklip! Those are looking really good!
GLWS!

My daily driver:

Looks dope, if magnets stay in place after some use, it's definitely job well done.

For ABS you need an enclosure... it's very susceptible to the temp changes and it can totally screw the print without it. I'm planning to do it myself when I'll tackle ABS fillaments
Use the screws. It must remain simple and cheap. Beside, there's no need to open it anways.

Try by directly cooling the nozzle like diicooler style
It should help immensly on your beast of a 3D print.
120C for bed? What material? Try using a quality hairspray, for PLA should work anything between 50-70, depeneds of ambient temps...

Try improving those 3D prints some more: better nozzle cooling and more accurately level the bed.
Beside that, good job, many people will find these little gems useful.
Me? I like to squeeze them inside the case if possible

Will this fit on a board like AEK II? Especially spacebar size and such...

You've did the right thing, no doubt about it.

After mine didn't felt like breakin'-in i decided to Hyperspere and Lube it (with 205 GPL Krytox). I lubed the slider-rails and the rings in which the slider sits. Together with the Novatouch sliders and the OG Cherry PBT Dyesub Keycaps the board is not only silent as hell, but also smooth as heave...

As good looking and convenient as the board is, I do struggle to put some serious work on a 60% board. HHKB is by far the most practical layout out there, but when you work in F-row heavy terminals and some serious number inputing projects, it's a struggle without all the keys in the long run. I've ...

Very nice work! Keep it up and keep the pics coming!

They sound really pleasant...10g's are more than enough for all the switches and stabs. Krytox did improve mx blacks, topre, now alps...it's basically my go to lube :) To be honest, tuning and lubing is one hell of a job...it really takes time to get it right, lots of trial and error until it's perf...

A quick sound check. That F1 (F5) is stock dampened cream alps switch, others are lubed and tuned.
Love that clickyness, kind of smooth mx blues feel...only so much better

I've used krytox gpl 205 and with combination of bending the 4x teeth on the leaf, the dampened cream alps feel amazing! Smooth, clicky switch. I've only lubed the contact patches between the slider and the housing and it improved the feel drastically. Completely other switch tbh.

While I've found my AEK II nice to type on, I actually miss something. They seem smooth enough of a switch but my question is did anyone already use krytox for lubing the cream alps? Do you lube just the creamy stem or inside of the black housing? EDIT: Nevermind. Lubed cream alps are completely dif...

Nah, it has the same type of switches, just different way of plate and case construction. I lubed my ex RF87 55g too and she was amazing afterwards...stock one? Well, like with hhkb, average.
It's the switch

Haha righttt
It will be, indeed. Let me know if you need those punchers..

How do you like them feels? Capacitive godness!

Got to get a plain HHKB for comparison but I wanted to wait for it to sell on Massdrop finally. Feels like Elitekeyboards is preventing that from happening though. Hope Brian NEVER allows it out of his diseased hands. HHKB should ONLY be sold at his place. Totally agree with him, holding all the HH...

BIngo!

Well, it seems it's already inevitable for you to lube the board. Sadly, you'll have to take it apart to do it properly. Take it as maintainence & cleaning work...it's only 2 hours of your time. Springs will king of stay inside the domes which usually stick pretty good to the pcb.

I don't think I'm at the same fussiness tier as a lot of you guys. GOD TIER > Is adversely affected by ping SSS TIER > Annoyed by Topre friction < You are here A TIER > Can detect a Topre fart B TIER > Annoyed by HHKB friction C TIER > Considers MX Brown distinctly tactile < Daniel Beardsmore is he...

I had a Type-S (JP layout) and now I have a standard HHKB. The Type-S definitely had a scratchier feel overall compared to the standard, and the Realforce is again smoother than the standard HHKB. I would not lube the sliders on my standard HHKB personally as I don't think the friction is noticeabl...

Yes and no :) I gave my lubed hhkb to my friend, loooong time hhkb user. And first thing he said was "Did you put hypherspheres inside it?". He thought I've type-s'ed her ;) And relubing the stabs with krytox improves them too...it's really remarkable. The factory lube will lose it's viscosity and t...

face wrote: ↑Why is it quieter through lubing?

Because sliders don't wobble in the barrels that much. Sliders wobble (on keypresses) - you hear those squeeky sounds because of the plastic slider rubbing and wiggling inside the plastic barrels. Lubed topre thocks and is really nice to listen to.

Lubing the slider will always be the solution I got a type S HHKB that is so scratchy but you can make 'em feels smoother by just lubing them with thick krytox lube I got mine from zeal but you can mix it yourself the mix is 205 and 103 50/50 mix +1 Lubed topre is godly. Smooth as silk and quiet as...

Admirable work there!
Black case is really refreshing and the plate is looking dope too.
And she types like a dream, doesn't she?

Thanks again, cookie! Appreciate what you've done for the community, these koreans look stunning on our japaneses

The sticker goes on the board in one piece. If the pro1 has that "Professional" aligned to the "HHKB" in the same way as the pro 2, there would be no problem cutting the "2" out of the sticker. When you align and press the sticker on the board, you'll have to carefully remove the top foil and that's...

Free bump!

I see...I read through that thread, exceptional work by DMA. Sometimes it would be cool and useful if some old IBM keyboard engineers could lend us a hand...it's just so complicated and time consuming to merge old and new tech in a successful way especially considering it's "just a hobby" for majori...