deskthority

Eh? A user doesn't have an avatar (or location etc) when banned (on GH / VB4 anyway).

whiskerBox wrote:Ya it seemed pretty stupid since like you said everyone could see "Banned" above his avatar

'Banned' above an avatar == not banned.

So GH is offline because iMav is trying to restore keyboardlover's account, thanks to you?

[Golf Clap]

$127.56 for six - setup costs are about $85 of that - each additional PCB is only $7.11. That's from pcbwing with a 10-day turnaround, solder resist both sides, no silk screen. Lead-free adds about 20 to 25%. Re-ordering exactly the same design after the first run halves the setup cost. It helps tha...

Are you planning to use a centered <Caps Lock> key for <Enter> and a <Space> bar from a G80-1800 with win keys? Yes, enter is that size... the blank sets from the GH R3 GB had both styles of caps lock, so that's why caps is offset and enter isn't ;). 2 full sets + an extra modifier set gets enough ...

Certainly worth a try! Of course the PCB allows for that already It wouldn't be quite the same as a stabilizer because there wouldn't be the metal bar linking the two sides, so it probably would feel a bit different - perhaps more different with a heavy switch than a lighter one.

Ah yes, thanks! I knew those spacebars must exist somewhere, there's Cherry part numbers for the 1x3 stabilizers in the datasheet

I've found one place that sells the stabilizers, but anyway it would be pretty simple to adapt those of a different width if I got some suitable wire.

This is how ripster responds when his bullshit is challenged over there:

One of them bans the right people, the other doesn't.

Well it's all down to what code you put on it! There's a few Teensy based controller projects around, so you should be able to find some source code to start you off. I'm thinking hasu's hhkb code would be a good base (you'd need to add key debouncing code, but that's all I think). Pick a donor boar...

Mounting holes are 2mm. I'm thinking of using allen-headed bolts and spacers (o-rings maybe) to mount it on an aluminium backplate, for the first one anyway, just to make it usable!

The plane is full, it must be time to take to the air!

CeeSA, I think you misread the question

But I have one for you - how did you measure that ghetto reds were stiffer? I'd always thought that, if anything, they'd be a tiny bit lighter than real reds.

But, but... my thumbs prefer the convex spacebar profile, and maybe the twin 1x3 option

Good to hear the double-switch option works out well though - I will put that into the PCB design, and give it a try.

With a double width keycap over two switches in POS style, you just have to remove the spring from one of the switches. If your keycap has a corresponding stem, the switch will act as a stabilizer without adding to the activation force required for the other ("active") one. It moves up and down wit...

The shiny spot on my spacebar is below 'N' - so that counts out the three double width bars for me at least! I think it would start to feel cramped anyway. Also, the PCB layout wouldn't work for double width keys with stabilizers. It would work if each bar had two actual switches (POS style), but th...

Thanks! The luck is holding so far - even the extra stabilizers fit!!

So the choice is either a single 6-key wide spacebar, or two 3-key wide bars... now then, where do I get 3-key wide spacebars and stabilizers?!

That would work for 2 switches, I'll do that! At least I'd be able to try it and see if I'd like it

Well I am tempted to try a split spacebar... it's a shame it's not possible to make a single PCB that copes with both configurations

I've been on the verge of getting some PCBs made for this for far too long. I'm sure it won't be the final version, so I'll end up getting more made with minor changes whatever I do! The main idea is that there's one less column on the rhs, so enter is closer and shift is a symmetrical reach. Otherw...

Ok let assume to use a linear switch where a better precision can be reached, who force you to use 5g coins? I never did it. I tested some keys, upon ripster request, with a combination of big coins to reach slightly less the weight needed, and then I added some 1 cent or 2 cent coins, that are rou...

Oops, Soarer, I accidentally zapped your last post. (Hit the wrong button, this is the second time this happens to me). Sorry, this was not my intention. Please repost if you still remember what you wrote. I was wondering where it went! Or if I even posted it successfully! Anyway, found it by going...

What we want is accuracy, and it's a given that we require precision for that, so I defend my using that term :-) Whats the point to have, say, 1g of accuracy when te precision is more than 10%, because the switch itself is imprecise ant the placement of the coins is subject to the human factor whi...

Perhaps a little lighter, but not much in it. I prefer the feel of it as well, but it's difficult to describe just how the feel is different - it's certainly not just a lighter/firmer type of thing. Examining the switch's insides, the F's springs have a slightly smaller diameter, and its pivot plate...

Fair point. Being pedantic, it is neither accurate or precise. And lacking precision precludes accuracy, so that is tautology.

But...

What we want is accuracy, and it's a given that we require precision for that, so I defend my using that term

Oh for sure, it's well constructed... the Model M feels distinctly cheap by comparison! I'm a big fan of the Model Fs, and the AT in particular.

It doesn't have rivets, instead a PCB is sandwiched between two metal plates, that are held together at the edges by slotted tabs. Quite easy to take apart and reassemble

What webwit is saying is that the accuracy of the method is measured in terms of numbers of coins (the accuracy of each coin's weight is insignificant by comparison). Ignoring any other factors, the best it could ever manage is to say the force is between N-1 and N coins. So if a switch triggers wit...

I imagine that's lemon mousse on the keys, and a quick rinse cleaned it off