deskthority

I'd like a vintage "cueball", but it's been 25 years since I've laid eyes on one in person. A drafting class I attened once had a bunch for AutoCad, circa 1992. I use a Logitech M570, similar to the one above. I love it. I can't use a typical mouse for longer than a few minutes before pain sets in. ...

And now for something completely different.... Since my keyboard is going to be down for 10 hours to 10 days, I decided to try and find some kind of mechanical board to substitute for the Multitech while it is torn down. A few searches on CL and FB yielded little, but generally keyboards made in the...

First "keyboard", Commodore 64. First KEYBOARD, the F that came with my 5150. First home brew build, we bought a Focus FK-2001 I don't own any of them still, but I do own replacements, minus the Focus. I still have some receipts too, but the 5150 wasn't itemized and I can't remember how many I have ...

Ah. I guess that the case screw near the crack had been overtightened... Looking back through my pics, the crack was there when I "found" the keyboard, so who knows. There is a stand-off right there as well that could have had debris/flashing in the way when originally assembled. Who knows. I think...

Fumes and how they affect health is a debate for another thread :) //gains, you would have known if it was an anti-fungal. It has a very unique smell. It is also WAY more toxic than any lead or flux fumes you might get a whiff of. My projects and repairs are generally fairly small, so I'm not too wo...

Thanks //gainsborro! I don't think you had quite as much Cheeto dust :) Did your PCB have a coating on the bottom as well? I just didn't touch it with an iron while I had it apart this morning to get a whiff. I'll know once I start, but I really don't want to breath in the anti-fungal. Heard horror ...

LOL! I had that (similar) Weller, till it was stolen from me. I still have the "manual" version, turkey baster style, but very similar iron head. It is horrible. I'd rather wick the entire board, than use that manual Weller. My AOYUE station does quite nice for about 10% of the price, plus it is mul...

Thanks for the input.

The lateral force of straightening the pin, plus heat, is what kinda worried me.. I'll just take it slow.

I've done a lot more delicate work with the gun, but that's a bit different with passive components and less heat applied. I am just being overly careful and paranoid.

Most likely it's old flux you are looking at. Hard to tell from the pic though. Bent pins aren't too bad to work with if you get a desoldering gun. I'd highly recommend one. Use an Aoyue 701A++ myself. {image removed} Funny! I have a 2703A. Its cheap, but does the trick! I was really impressed that...

Anyone know if there is a anti-fungal or shellac coating on this PCB? Was is common for either to be applied on keyboards? I have Heathkit equipment just drenched in the anti-fungal and its no fun to remove (or breath, for that matter). Also rather disappointing to see soooo many bent pins. This wil...

No marks inside the case as far as manufacturing. However, I found an issue that is going to make things a bit difficult. The top and bottom "slot" together, leaving no room for inside reinforcement. You can barely make out the crack here http://www.rivervalleycomputer.org/geekhack/crack3.JPG http:/...

I am assuming it is ABS because of the UV degradation/bromine leech. The slurry idea is a neat idea. I'll definitely practice before attempting anything. Never would have thought of putting tape on the outside. I'm really terrible at this type of stuff. My wife generally does all my cosmetic work; I...

We never had the Mustang, but we did have 93 up Camaros. They were even 6 speed cars. Would only have stripe and badge on passenger fender/doors. They still do it with both Chargers and Challengers, with "normal" colors

Yeah, its a cheaper option. They are few and far between SUVs. Our staties use Chargers, Tahoes and unmarked Challengers. They are V8 cars, but there are 6cly local Chargers serving as prowlers as well. Our city has mostly Exploders and one or two FWD Taurus and two 6cyl Caprices lol Cheap bastards

Wow, an actual turbo AWD Taurus Interceptor? Departments here skimp with the FWD non boosted version. They still have the armor and rubermaid interior. However, most officers prefer the SUV. Id agree as a former LEO. Duty belts and the Taurus or the newer 9C1 Caprice are very uncomfortable for even ...

Beatiful Sharp! Love the F keys and LED caps. Very nice. Im not super well versed and have not seen a Sharp. Thanks for sharing! If something is beyond repair, i have no problem with recyling. But i would be rather disheartened to see a fair condition (like mine) keyboard hacked as well. Although, I...

Pressure could be added by a band/strap. I can see how the plastic will react with acetone. I need to check the mold and see if it might be marked with exactly what plastic it is. They did use date inserts in the molds, so maybe there are others.

Blaise170 wrote: ↑Just out of curiosity, is this a Chicony KB-5161?

Multitech KB-101A, predecessor of the Acer

I already like where this is going. :lol: Am I missing something? lol I did find a crack in the upper housing. Trying to find a solution to at least stop the spread. The teensy has also been "housed". However, I'm not really liking the aesthetics, but its nice to know its not going to get zapped or...

Wouldnt epoxy seep through though? I thought about that as well. I assume I could bind the crack to prevent as much seepage, but I would use a thicker, quick-set epoxy as well. I'm really looking for the "right" epoxy, I guess. I've used a few, but mostly on broken pieces inside of notebooks, ect. ...

Renforce it form the other side and leave it at that unless its getting painted just use some epoxy, dont get the cheap £ store stuff , its never worked well for me , the clear stuff from UHU is pritty good You could try some wiking grade superglue but at your own risk. Its all a pain for me, but I...

It wouldn't, huh?

{moved pics to first post}

Very careful. Hopefully more do not appear, or paint would be pointless venture as well.

I really do not want to paint, so I'll see if there is room for reinforcement next time I pull the lid. The crack starts at the edge where the top meets the bottom tray :( Looking through older pics, its been there since I recovered the keyboard and hasn't spread. However, I will be pulling this guy...

Please read entire post for all pics and videos Project Overview: This project is a documentation of restoring/modding my Multitech KB101-A. I welcome all discussion and suggestions in this venture. However, I do plan on keeping the original layout and housing. If you were hoping for a complete cust...

Anyone had any luck repairing hair-line cracks in 30 year old keyboard plastics? I'm guessing it is ABS since it is yellow. I should be able to dissemble the chassis and not make the crack worse. The rest of the plastic seems fairly maleable; this crack is on an edge, that had the most UV exposure. ...

Quick camera and mic test with my Multitech KB101-A (early blue Alps)

How odd. I can imagine that there's something about the full-size switches that makes them more suitable for wider keys, but why 5? What does the 5 key do differently that needs a different switch? How weird. I assume that the PCB, if made by Alps, would have a 56AAA-style code — that looks to be f...

More Dell keypad goodness.

I was a little surprised to see the blacks, but it makes sense.