deskthority

Max current is about 20mA for a standard LED. So 12V supply where V=IxR you get 12/560 is 21mA. So for a 5V supply you want 5/.020 or about 250 ohms. You should get some light past 6mA or so which is why they're still lighting up now, but not at max brightness. 1.6 is the drop voltage. It's only a c...

So Snacks, after watching your work, I decided to go ahead and bruteforce mine and just desolder everything and jam a Teensy 2++ in there. I just needed one bit of clarification. You basically chopped every row connect on all rows, kept the columns, then made new rows with the diodes, right? Can I g...

Trying to clean out a few boxes of bits and stumbled across stuff I put away four or five years ago. These are leftovers from some swaps I did on some 75% boards back when. Figured I'd see if anyone was interested in these oddballs. Blacks and Blues are desoldered, some more cleanly than others. I g...

Awesome. I'd been hoping for a review on these since a bunch of them popped up last year.

Good work, man. I'm watching closely.

Great work, man. A lot of effort put into this project, and I can't wait to see the final result.

You can slap a DMA or Xwhatsit in anything capacitive as long as you have a proper number of rows and columns. You just have to be willing to detach or desolder the original controller bits.

What a unique and really cool board.

I know the caps are the highlight, but I am super impressed that foam is still good.

It always seems Matias are on the edge of greatness but just can't get over the hump. I hope they do, though. They're so close.

I know your pain. If it was simple, I would have bruteforced mine long ago too. I would leave the dampeners alone though. Second gen fujitsus like this are rare. Best solution would probably be just straight swapping in some 3rd gen sliders from another board. But then I don't mind them stock at all...

There's no diodes on this board. Replacing the controller makes it like 1KRO. While it claims NKRO natively with the buffer. Also, I remember trying to use that scan module originally and IIRC it's not compatible with the modern version of the firmware. I never got anything but error press codes wit...

I think it's just saying that those 3 are the only ones that matter. The reason the other 0's in the string are represented as x's is likely so there's no confusion in the instructions regarding "Bit 0" that 1100000 is inhibit and 1110000 is enable.

I have one of these I've been seeing about converting for awhile. I collected a bunch of documentation when I first got it to help out. The actual technical manual has all the scancodes and everything. http://www.mediafire.com/file/rowr246phbkuf9a/QX10_Technical_Manual_Chapter_7_starts_page_13_Keybo...

Just use a pretty thick lube like superlube and paint it finely with a brush on the three tracks underneath with the slider up, then do the collar on the top side. You should do all this before you put the pads back in, and you can test the feel with the springs and caps installed.

Good luck. Looks like you have your work cut out for you but it's definitely worth the effort.

Sorry, sold.

This is one of my favorite kinds of switch types, and it's so hard to find ones that are compatible with modern PC's or converters. That's why it's such a shame the keyfeel on this isn't very good.

It's lucky that this is a 3rd Gen with the diodes so you can gut the controller and swap out. My Epson with the 2nd Gen leafsprings doesn't have that so the only hope I have is a converter. They are very lovely switches.

The only material upgrade I could imagine would be using a 4 axis mill to tool everything the same way but with the classic profile curve. Would it be at all possible to make, for a lack of a better term, a set of PCB strips , all to be connected to the "main" Yes. The only thing that matters is th...

The only material upgrade I could imagine would be using a 4 axis mill to tool everything the same way but with the classic profile curve.

I redid one of these awhile ago. My favorite Keytronic F&F board and the one I've kept around above all others. Love the layout, love the feel, the keys, the sound and the ping. Everything comes together just right. If you use an xwhatsit, you'll need the better debounce firmware, but I would recomm...

I just can't believe you didn't make the good old ebay "clicky" keyboard joke.

Thanks for the best keyboard forum on the net. There's nowhere else a vintage-loving scragg like me would feel so much at home. And I know matt3o understands the soul of this place. Here's to the future.

I really like this. It's what I would have wanted out of one of these cases rather than the default super macro pad that the originals are. Nice choice on the plug too. I love those old amphinol connectors. As far as a solenoid goes, the xwhatsit solenoid board will provide the power and just needs ...

I can't believe they're mounted on wood boards instead of fiberglass. That is truly bygone days.

Optical keyboards are mechanical as much as magvalve and hall effect are. They're just a different kind of switch. And if you're asking for reasons they're not superior to contact switches, well, they are superior from a lot of points. Mostly, you only need to compare feel. There's contact switches ...

It's videos like this that really make me realize how nice it is that you got that sound and video upgrade awhile back. I listen to this and it sounds so much closer to real life than my own video I took of the same board. I guess it's kind of like good audio equipment in general. You don't realize ...

It's ITW magvalve. DMA is working on a controller replacement solution for those kind of switches right now but nothing is ready yet.

Sorry to hear about these setbacks. Are there individual components on the cards which could go bad or out of spec? The carbon comp resistors will drift in value a lot. The capacitors will dry up and short. Some of those actually look like ancient oil and paper ones. Yeesh. Solder joints will crack...

Ditto what Chyros said. I would probably also slice some support slits in the back of the cracks and back the acetone weld with epoxy just as an extra strength thing. The 3178 is a lovely board, if a bit of a pain to convert. Definitely worth the effort to revive it. Just don't try to remove the spa...