deskthority

Daniel Beardsmore wrote: ↑They appear to be [wiki]Futaba sealed linear[/wiki]

Thanks for the analysis! Tempted to get it to check it out, but rather pricey - even more so considering the gunk on it.

Thanks again! Once again very helpful info!

This is listed as an Eagle IV keyboard - does anyone recognize what the type of switches these are? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rare-Vintage-Eagle-IV-KEYBOARD-ONLY-FOR-PARTS/112631459526?hash=item1a395baec6:g:W3kAAOSwpLdZzPgt switches.jpg If not, does anyone at least have a theory about the black gunk?

Thanks for posting! It seems so difficult in general to find this kind of info!

Dirty Televideo TS 804 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Keyboard-TS804-USED-/322283947830 The Televideo PC (vs. terminal) keyboards like this one are interesting. Three or four part numbers as I recall. I think the (edit: 803/804) were CP/M (Z80) and the (edit: 1603/1605) were MS DOS (8088), but th...

Not motivated enough yet to open/clean all the switches, so I finished up the wiring for now and the board and it's solenoid is working. Luckily the solenoid appears to be 5V (at least its working on 5V) so I'm running it off the Teensy with a simple solenoid driver. I wasn't sure if hooking up the ...

I came across this little KeyTronic magnetic reed switch board: orig.jpg PCB back.jpg pulled cap.jpg Row of diodes, one for each key: diodes.jpg It's dated 8/81: date.jpg This one was easy to hook up - no on-board controller components, just the key matrix connected to a 16 pin socket - so straight ...

Well until I potentially invest in a real front panel like Sangdrax suggested, I went ahead and made a wooden frame case that at least holds the board at a proper angle and does look better than two flat pieces of 2x4. Also, I had to desolder all the ICs, resistors, caps, etc. in order to cleanly is...

Nice! I wasn't familiar with that board, but looked up a pic of it with the BAE and I'd say your mod really makes a significant improvement in appearance!

Sangdrax wrote: ↑ Also, for the case, there's custom amp case makers like FrontPanelExpress who can do the work...

Thanks for the tip! I'll check them out, sounds like they make some nice stuff.

Thanks everyone. Very nice, these are interesting switches. Makes sense that they're smooth - I seem to recall having heard they're rather stiff though. The switches are smooth and if by stiff you mean that the springs are on the heavy side - they are. By the highly scientific nickel test they are s...

Looking at a unused parts, it did seem like the shell snapped together, but in your case, the parts that would secure the shell seem to have been drilled away. And yet, somehow it still snaps together. What appears to be happening is that by drilling away just the very tip of the rivets, enough of ...

Will you allow us to use your pictures for our wiki page please? https://deskthority.net/wiki/Datanetics_DC-60_series Thanks. For sure, if any of the pics would be of use, more than welcome to them. I can take additional pictures (hopefully with a better camera) if here are any in particular that w...

I posted about my Fluke 1720A Programmer keyboard with scratchy Datanetics DC-60 Switches. I like the board but the scratchy switches are annoying so I wanted to see if I could disassemble and clean the switches AND get them back together in good working order. It did not appear likely to be an easy...

Looks very nice - like that glow! Nice use of the switches and they look cool too - either going to turn on the solenoid or launch a missile or something!

I recently acquired a KeyTronic magnetic reed switch board. No case just the internals. orig_small.jpg PCB_back_sm.jpg nocaps1_sm.jpg nocaps3_sm.jpg nocaps2_sm.jpg It's hard to read in the picture, but it carries a sticker dated 4/80. date_sm.jpg They are difficult to see but you can make out one of...

Nice work! My understanding is that those boards use Hall effect switches - is that right? Even if the board is 1 KRO it's very cool that you got an old Hall effect board working!

Well I may not be able to do too much about the scratchy switches, but I was able to get the solenoid working by running a circuit off the Teensy. The occasional squeaks from the switches aren't as noticeable! Now just have to do some proper permanent wiring.

I used a DB9 breakout board for mine but others have used the cord wires directly to the microcontroller board. Just_add_coffee's thread on this page has lots of info for both for the internal and external solutions. If you haven't seen it it's just a few threads down: https://deskthority.net/worksh...

Definitely take the time to lube the plungers on the board if you get a chance... It I can post my layer layouts too if that would help at all. I lubed the plungers and yes - it does make a nice difference for sure! If you get a chance to post your layer layouts those would be great to take a look ...

I came across Sangdrax's excellent work and background info on this GH post: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=90008.msg2436488#msg2436488 so when I came across the same board for a reasonable price I went for it. orig_DT.jpg This one is dated July 27, 1978. date_small.jpg Sangdrax did a great jo...

I did get one apart, but I definitely had to slice through it. I have an unassembled one somewhere and I'm still not entirely sure how they are assembled, but they certainly cannot be safely opened. Thanks for the info, I was kind of afraid of that. The switches aren't too bad but I was hoping coul...

I picked up a Fluke 1720A Programmer keyboard - it's kind of a nice little board: Fluke_Orig_small.jpg front1_small.jpg PCB_back3_small.jpg I've got it working with a Teensy breadboard but before finalizing the case wiring I was wondering if anyone knows if anything can be done to refurb the switche...

One of a kind M-122. End game conversion already included. Price is currently low considering the value for the real connoisseurs, but it's guaranteed to go sky high. http://www.ebay.de/itm/Vintage-IBM-Model-M-1395660-122-Key-Mechanical-Terminal-Keyboard-Clicky-1985/202063626905?_trkparms=aid%3D222...

I've done it with rather Dark Grey and it came out fine, so I would say go for it with a test key. Also, it's just occurred to me that if these are doubleshot, you could just retrobright the white part from inside the keycap, give it the old backwards switcheroo. Good thought, would be interesting ...

Nice! Keeping fingers crossed it works as expected. Now if I just had a 3741 keyboard!

Thanks everyone. I was very surprised to see what a difference it actually made. Nice result! Making the text brighter on the black keys would be nice too but who knows how the black plastic would react. I wasn't sure either, that's why I held off on doing the black caps. The text on them has yellow...

This is a cross post but it worked pretty well so I thought I'd put it here too. I have a TRS-80 Model II keyboard that I recently restored. The keys had significantly yellowed - I could see they had been light grey from parts of the keys that had been shielded from light. new6.jpg I haven't RetrObr...

Interesting early IBM electronic typewriter. Too rich for my blood, but still neat and would be fun to convert to work with a modern system. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Control-Data-Corporation-IBM-Model-B-Typewriter-Keyboard-Combo-Steampunk-/152705965831?hash=item238dfc1f07:g:VpgAAOSwHqRZvUU1 ...

Finished up with the foam and foil and using the board now. This is what the foam was looking like: oldfoam1.jpg oldfoam2.jpg New foam and foil in place: S_base.jpg s_foam1.jpg newfoil.jpg Finished board: back.jpg back2.jpg side1.jpg I know some people are really down on the foam and foil switches, ...