IBM Model M to USB, mushy stabilzers, backplate
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- Location: OH
- Main keyboard: GH60 Satan
- Main mouse: Logitech G502
- DT Pro Member: -
I was wondering what the best way to deal with the model M PS/2 situation, I want to turn it to USB but I'm not sure what the best method of doing that would be. Is there a controller or something I could buy for it? As for the stabilizers, for some reason they feel "mushy" and bind with off key presses on the side where the insert are located. Ever since I had to sand down the backplate due to the rust it had on it I'm a little worried about it rusting but I don't know what I could do in order to preserve it, any good ideas as to how I can deal with that? Thanks.
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- Location: Netherlands
- Main keyboard: IBM Model M
- Main mouse: IBM MO18B
- Favorite switch: Model M buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: -
* PS/2 to USB: a cheap and effective solution is to use an active PS/2 to USB converter like this one. Orihalcon also sells a somewhat more expensive, yet elegant PS/2 to USB converter cable.
* You could paint the back plate or apply a layer of acrylic varnish.
* You could paint the back plate or apply a layer of acrylic varnish.
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- Location: Canada
- Main keyboard: HHKB
- Main mouse: G400
- Favorite switch: Topre
- DT Pro Member: -
If you can wait, Wingklip is making little two-tone 3D printed PS/2 => USB converter boxes currently that should be going up for sale relatively soon from the sounds of things. I think he said about $20AUD shipped (?) was what he was looking to sell them at.
If you're comfortable with soldering, I'm pretty sure you can always cut the PS/2 cable, solder the wires to the appropriate pro micro headers and hide/tape it into the case so that you've got a mini (or micro) USB model M.
If you're comfortable with soldering, I'm pretty sure you can always cut the PS/2 cable, solder the wires to the appropriate pro micro headers and hide/tape it into the case so that you've got a mini (or micro) USB model M.
- Darkshado
- Location: Montréal, Québec, Canada
- Main keyboard: WASD V2 MX Clears (work); M, F, Matias, etc (home)
- Main mouse: Logitech G502 (work), G502 + CST L-Trac (home)
- Favorite switch: Buckling spring, SKCM Cream Dampened, MX Clear
- DT Pro Member: 0237
If you only want a fairly straightforward conversion and no fancy macro or layering, "Blue cube" converters work well and are affordable; matter of fact I'm typing this post using one.
If you don't have a PS/2 cable at all, or a defective controller, I remember someone using copper tape to fabricate a "break-out" of sorts for the membrane. Solder wires onto a Pro Micro board flashed with TMK or something similar, then stick the wires to the copper tape. (Sticking first might cause excess heat from the soldering to transfer onto the menbrane.)
Finish using a panel mount USB "extension" (e.g. Adafruit 3258) or maybe the MF project USB connectors, if it's not too late, and you'd have a fully internal USB conversion.
If you don't have a PS/2 cable at all, or a defective controller, I remember someone using copper tape to fabricate a "break-out" of sorts for the membrane. Solder wires onto a Pro Micro board flashed with TMK or something similar, then stick the wires to the copper tape. (Sticking first might cause excess heat from the soldering to transfer onto the menbrane.)
Finish using a panel mount USB "extension" (e.g. Adafruit 3258) or maybe the MF project USB connectors, if it's not too late, and you'd have a fully internal USB conversion.
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- Location: OH
- Main keyboard: GH60 Satan
- Main mouse: Logitech G502
- DT Pro Member: -
Where can I find out more about those converter boxes they're making? I might be interested in something like this.cumwagondeluxe wrote: ↑If you can wait, Wingklip is making little two-tone 3D printed PS/2 => USB converter boxes currently that should be going up for sale relatively soon from the sounds of things. I think he said about $20AUD shipped (?) was what he was looking to sell them at.
If you're comfortable with soldering, I'm pretty sure you can always cut the PS/2 cable, solder the wires to the appropriate pro micro headers and hide/tape it into the case so that you've got a mini (or micro) USB model M.