Hello everyone,
I tried a few different approaches to stabilize the Model M spacebar installed on my extra modifiers modded F AT but never got it quite right: thickness would interfere with key travel, washers wouldn't stay down, no yaw control, bad adhesion between epoxy and plastic, etc.
Recently, I had another idea: paperclips. Behold, the "clippy" mod:
I'm using a thinner stabilizer wire with "sleeves" made from stainless tubing on the corners clipping in.
There was still a problem with yaw control, which I solved with these shims simply jammed in place:
(I might try longer, ever so slightly narrower pieces but these work if placed properly.)
Cheers,
Darkshado
Useful links:
Wcass' templates
DIY stabilizer wire - I used "vise grip" style pliers, better than channel lock, allows working without a jig. I've later read reports of shrink wrap on the smaller wire being sufficient, did not try it yet.
Model F AT - The "Clippy" Mod
- Darkshado
- Location: Montréal, Québec, Canada
- Main keyboard: WASD V2 MX Clears (work); M, F, Matias, etc (home)
- Main mouse: Logitech G502 (work), G502 + CST L-Trac (home)
- Favorite switch: Buckling spring, SKCM Cream Dampened, MX Clear
- DT Pro Member: 0237
Last edited by Darkshado on 18 Jun 2019, 07:15, edited 4 times in total.
- troglotype
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: IBM AT Model F / F62 / F77
- Main mouse: Logitech MX Master 3
- Favorite switch: capacitive buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: -
That's a truly clever solution!
-
- Location: United Kingdom
- Main keyboard: Modded IBM Model F AT
- Main mouse: Mionix Naos 8200
- Favorite switch: Capacitive Buckling Springs
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
That's a really smart way of stabilising the model m space-bar without making any irreversible changes.
Great work
Great work
- dcopellino
- Location: Italia - Napoli
- Main keyboard: IBM 4704 F400 brushed chrome
- Main mouse: Logitech laser wired
- Favorite switch: Buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: 0229
- Contact:
bookmrk'd. great job. I'm modding me too, soon. I'm going to follow this https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=48288.0. What do u think of it. Any hints?
- Darkshado
- Location: Montréal, Québec, Canada
- Main keyboard: WASD V2 MX Clears (work); M, F, Matias, etc (home)
- Main mouse: Logitech G502 (work), G502 + CST L-Trac (home)
- Favorite switch: Buckling spring, SKCM Cream Dampened, MX Clear
- DT Pro Member: 0237
Get a rotary tool if you don't already have one. Use proper protective equipment, especially safety goggles. Flying metal shards and eyeballs are not good friends.
Once you've sanded down your plate (assuming you plan in re-painting it) permanent marker can be used to mark your cuts. It can be cleaned with isopropyl alcohol.
Be as accurate as you can be when cutting/drilling/filing out the holes for the new modifier barrels. At the risk of stating the obvious, don't forget to deburr to avoid damaging your barrel inserts. It's been a while since I did mine, but IIRC there wasn't really enough room for cutting with a disc so I went with bits early on and finished with a hand file.
Plan on trimming your modifier keycaps with a flat file or your rotary tool. Get a barrel for the spacebar so you won't have to cut the special combination barrel and stabilizer assembly. This way, the only irreversible mod is on the plate and not visible if you ever want to restore the board to its original configuration. (The alternative is to remove some material from the case spacers.)
Once you've sanded down your plate (assuming you plan in re-painting it) permanent marker can be used to mark your cuts. It can be cleaned with isopropyl alcohol.
Be as accurate as you can be when cutting/drilling/filing out the holes for the new modifier barrels. At the risk of stating the obvious, don't forget to deburr to avoid damaging your barrel inserts. It's been a while since I did mine, but IIRC there wasn't really enough room for cutting with a disc so I went with bits early on and finished with a hand file.
Plan on trimming your modifier keycaps with a flat file or your rotary tool. Get a barrel for the spacebar so you won't have to cut the special combination barrel and stabilizer assembly. This way, the only irreversible mod is on the plate and not visible if you ever want to restore the board to its original configuration. (The alternative is to remove some material from the case spacers.)
- dcopellino
- Location: Italia - Napoli
- Main keyboard: IBM 4704 F400 brushed chrome
- Main mouse: Logitech laser wired
- Favorite switch: Buckling spring
- DT Pro Member: 0229
- Contact:
Thanx a lot for your precious suggestions darkshado. I'll keep the community updated as soon as I finish the job. I am counting on a Dremel tool and a good hand file, but still need to get the two extra barrels and springs for the modifier keys, beside the soarers converter. Maybe eBay could help me if I don't find any better solution among you DT enthusiasts!!