Before and after of the 12 USD IBM model F 122

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PlacaFromHell

20 Apr 2019, 21:05

Hello again guys. I just wanted to show some pictures about my borderline stealed IBM model F 122.
This is what I got first:

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And this is how is looking right now:

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Customized numpad

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Luckily I have spares of the model M spanish version of this keyboard, so it has not the originals, but pretty accurate keycaps.
Ufortunately isn't working (still). When I plug it with the Soarer's converter is plain dead, maybe is because of the modded cable I used. I really can't complain of this keyboard if I got it for that price.

User avatar
fohat
Elder Messenger

20 Apr 2019, 22:01

Don't trust the colors if you don't have the original cable, and remember that the diagrams show the socket, not the plug.
IBM-keyboard-001MF.jpg
IBM-keyboard-001MF.jpg (114.39 KiB) Viewed 5432 times

User avatar
PlacaFromHell

20 Apr 2019, 22:07

Yeah, I worked with various converters already. What I did is measure the the continuity of the pins inside the plugs to the cables themselves and weld the original PCB connector to my IBM XT cable, like simulating a normal AT connector. I will check if I messed the connections in somewhere or just put something wrong.

Edit: it's working :lol: I swapped GND and DATA. Don't work more than 3 hours in the same keyboard without a break.

User avatar
Wazrach

21 Apr 2019, 18:24

Wait, what converter are you using? Doesn't the keyboard speak Set 3?

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Wazrach

21 Apr 2019, 18:31

Nice job by the way!

I just bought a Battleship last night, but it will take two weeks to get to me. -.- I am way too impatient. I seriously hope the foam is in good condition. I'm not skilled enough to replace it without messing up the key feel.

User avatar
depletedvespene

21 Apr 2019, 19:24

PlacaFromHell wrote:
20 Apr 2019, 21:05
Hello again guys. I just wanted to show some pictures about my borderline stealed IBM model F 122.
This is what I got first:

And this is how is looking right now:

Image
Lookin' good!
PlacaFromHell wrote:
20 Apr 2019, 21:05
Image
Customized numpad
I like that bottom row. ;-)

User avatar
PlacaFromHell

21 Apr 2019, 22:51

Wazrach wrote:
21 Apr 2019, 18:24
Wait, what converter are you using? Doesn't the keyboard speak Set 3?
A normal Soarer's converter. Yes, the keyboard speaks SET 3. If you have to replace the foam, mine is working with 1.5mm EVA.

User avatar
Wazrach

21 Apr 2019, 22:55

PlacaFromHell wrote:
21 Apr 2019, 22:51
Wazrach wrote:
21 Apr 2019, 18:24
Wait, what converter are you using? Doesn't the keyboard speak Set 3?
A normal Soarer's converter. Yes, the keyboard speaks SET 3. If you have to replace the foam, mine is working with 1.5mm EVA.
Are you using one of Orihalcon's converters? Just trying to understand what you've done with the XT cable.

And 1.5mm foam? Does it sound and feel firm? Honestly, I've tried foam that thin and the middle rows are always loose.

User avatar
PlacaFromHell

21 Apr 2019, 23:05

I'm using a homemade converter, but should be the same as the ones from Orihalcon. Because I don't have any DIN 45322 port I just joint the cable from my broken XT to the connector that goes directly inside the keyboard (they are not the same). At the end you will have something like this:

Image

EVA is quite hard. If you go with a softer foam, then you will need more volume.

User avatar
Wazrach

22 Apr 2019, 00:26

PlacaFromHell wrote:
21 Apr 2019, 23:05
I'm using a homemade converter, but should be the same as the ones from Orihalcon. Because I don't have any DIN 45322 port I just joint the cable from my broken XT to the connector that goes directly inside the keyboard (they are not the same). At the end you will have something like this:

Image

EVA is quite hard. If you go with a softer foam, then you will need more volume.
Thanks for that.

I don't suppose you could upload a sound test with the foam inside? Could you also link the foam you used? Thanks! I understand if not.

User avatar
PlacaFromHell

22 Apr 2019, 01:07

Here it says 2mm but it isn't, I measured the sheet with a digital caliber. Sorry for the potato audio.

Image

User avatar
depletedvespene

22 Apr 2019, 02:39

PlacaFromHell wrote:
22 Apr 2019, 01:07
Dude, like... where are you in the video?

Oh, my, PlacaFromHell is a phantom!!! He is typing FROM HELL!!!!!!! :mrgreen:

User avatar
PlacaFromHell

22 Apr 2019, 03:03

Acoustics FROM HELL!!!! :lol:

PS: I'm everywhere and nowhere at the same time.

User avatar
Wazrach

22 Apr 2019, 08:29

PlacaFromHell wrote:
22 Apr 2019, 01:07
Here it says 2mm but it isn't, I measured the sheet with a digital caliber. Sorry for the potato audio.

Image
Thanks! Your keys sound a bit spongy like mine do when the middle row barrels are loose. :o

User avatar
PlacaFromHell

22 Apr 2019, 09:50

The battleships have a little bit looser feel and sound compared to the XT and the AT. I preffer the feeling of my XT with the 3mm EVA but this bad guy is impossible to close with that thick piece of foam. Anyway isn't bad, the keyboard feels consistent and the barrels are well pressed.

Good luck!

User avatar
Wazrach

22 Apr 2019, 12:50

PlacaFromHell wrote:
22 Apr 2019, 09:50
The battleships have a little bit looser feel and sound compared to the XT and the AT. I preffer the feeling of my XT with the 3mm EVA but this bad guy is impossible to close with that thick piece of foam. Anyway isn't bad, the keyboard feels consistent and the barrels are well pressed.

Good luck!
Interesting, thank you! Did you use a bar clamp? If so, was it absolutely necessary? I use lots of spring clamps on my XTs and simply hammer the backplate into place quite hard. I wonder if this introduces more curvature to the barrel frame, which might be why my foam replacements never feel good.

User avatar
fohat
Elder Messenger

22 Apr 2019, 15:23

It seems like you have some aversion to getting a bar clamp, they are simple and cheap. That is the only reasonable way to slide the plates back together. I do usually give it a tap with a hammer at the very end, but only after it is assembled properly.

https://express.google.com/u/0/product/ ... AdsaMDNRAB

User avatar
Wazrach

22 Apr 2019, 17:39

fohat wrote:
22 Apr 2019, 15:23
It seems like you have some aversion to getting a bar clamp, they are simple and cheap. That is the only reasonable way to slide the plates back together. I do usually give it a tap with a hammer at the very end, but only after it is assembled properly.

https://express.google.com/u/0/product/ ... AdsaMDNRAB
Thanks Fohat. I do have some aversion, yes. Similar to bolts for a Model F bolt mod. I bought a cheap aluminium bar clamp from Amazon, and it was too wobbly and weak to do the job properly. I have been hesitant to buy one since. I should probably buy a more expensive one.

User avatar
fohat
Elder Messenger

22 Apr 2019, 18:17

Wazrach wrote:
22 Apr 2019, 17:39

it was too wobbly
Some types have ball joints under the pressure pads, and those can be hard to keep stable under the thin edges of the plates. That is picture I sent. I have used that kind but it is tricky.

If you can find the kind that have flat pressure plates that don't swivel, that would probably be better.

User avatar
Wazrach

22 Apr 2019, 18:38

fohat wrote:
22 Apr 2019, 18:17
Wazrach wrote:
22 Apr 2019, 17:39

it was too wobbly
Some types have ball joints under the pressure pads, and those can be hard to keep stable under the thin edges of the plates. That is picture I sent. I have used that kind but it is tricky.

If you can find the kind that have flat pressure plates that don't swivel, that would probably be better.
I can't actually view the link, since I am in the UK. :P I'm sure I will find something, thank you anyway.

Let's hope I don't need to disassemble the F122 when it arrives. I'll just give the barrel frame a vacuum and scrub the keycaps and case. This one is really pretty! It has blue sublegends. I think it will look great with my set of coloured Wheelwriter caps. This is gonna be a long two weeks, heh... it's just been posted.

Speaking of F122s, I have always been wondering what your Models F sound like. I know you don't like the sound and try your best to attenuate it. It would be interesting to hear, especially with the art foam, bolt mod, flodd mod, case dampening, etc. If you ever get the time to record some typing sounds, I'd love to hear!
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User avatar
PlacaFromHell

22 Apr 2019, 19:52

Lol, that lovely legends. Wasn't that keyboard overpriced on Ebay? First time I used some C clamps that damaged the plates a bit, even with a thick piece of cloth. I ended using like 20 spring clamps with some pieces of rubber to avoid more damage. Then I hammered the upper plate with a hammer and a piece of wood. Anyway I had to pess the center tabs by hand, it was quite difficult but didn't took more than 2 attempts.

User avatar
Wazrach

22 Apr 2019, 19:57

PlacaFromHell wrote:
22 Apr 2019, 19:52
Lol, that lovely legends. Wasn't that keyboard overpriced on Ebay? First time I used some C clamps that damaged the plates a bit, even with a thick piece of cloth. I ended using like 20 spring clamps with some pieces of rubber to avoid more damage. Then I hammered the upper plate with a hammer and a piece of wood. Anyway I had to pess the center tabs by hand, it was quite difficult but didn't took more than 2 attempts.
It was quite expensive, yeah. I was willing to pay a lot for a Battleship, as it is my dream keyboard. I also never see them go for less than £200, and they're quite rare to begin with.

It's reassuring to know this thing can actually be assembled without a bar clamp.. haha. I hope it serves you well!

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fohat
Elder Messenger

23 Apr 2019, 00:43

PlacaFromHell wrote:
22 Apr 2019, 19:52

with some pieces of rubber to avoid more damage.

but didn't took more than 2 attempts.
Folded cardboard, the rough brown kind, is the best way to buffer yet hold firmly and avoid scarring.

Don't be discouraged until at least half a dozen attempts have failed.

I have done dozens of these, and even for an experienced modder, 2-5 attempts is the norm.

PS - spending <10% of the price of the subject for a good tool that you will use for years is a good investment

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