Help with flashing Soarer's converter
- Wazrach
- Location: Tyne and Wear, United Kingdom
- Main mouse: Razer Viper 8KHz/ Viper Mini
- Favorite switch: Buckling springs
- DT Pro Member: -
Hi guys, I'm trying to get my 4980 Model F to work with my Orihalcon 240° 5-pin DIN to USB Set 3 converter, as it does not output any scancodes. When I open hid_listen, it says the Keyboard ID is 0000, running code Set 1 and set to PC/XT mode. I get R05 and R06. I have included a picture for reference.
I tried to force change the protocol to Set 3 with "force set3" but it changes it to AT/PS2, unknown protocol and gives me even more error codes. I think this is just a problem with the command itself, because I accidentally flashed my XT/AT Soarer's converter (which I am using with my XT Model F) and could not revert back to Set 1, even with "force set1". I had to run legacy.sc to revert back to default.
What am I doing wrong? I'm convinced this is the solution to the keyboard not working, as it uses the same 240° din plug as other F122s but hid_listen states it's using Set 1. I played around with the two jumpers on the controller, putting them next to each other 8 pins in - just like on a regular F122 I saw. I also tested without jumpers, nothing seems to work.
I was lucky enough to receive help from another user pretty much all day yesterday, but we didn't really find a solution to this. Maybe someone else will know what's up. It's a pity I can't reach out to the other two people who also bought this keyboard, as there were three on Ebay that all sold in a day. Wonder if theirs are working alright.
Thanks in advance!
I tried to force change the protocol to Set 3 with "force set3" but it changes it to AT/PS2, unknown protocol and gives me even more error codes. I think this is just a problem with the command itself, because I accidentally flashed my XT/AT Soarer's converter (which I am using with my XT Model F) and could not revert back to Set 1, even with "force set1". I had to run legacy.sc to revert back to default.
What am I doing wrong? I'm convinced this is the solution to the keyboard not working, as it uses the same 240° din plug as other F122s but hid_listen states it's using Set 1. I played around with the two jumpers on the controller, putting them next to each other 8 pins in - just like on a regular F122 I saw. I also tested without jumpers, nothing seems to work.
I was lucky enough to receive help from another user pretty much all day yesterday, but we didn't really find a solution to this. Maybe someone else will know what's up. It's a pity I can't reach out to the other two people who also bought this keyboard, as there were three on Ebay that all sold in a day. Wonder if theirs are working alright.
Thanks in advance!
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- hid_listen.PNG (3.97 KiB) Viewed 3418 times
- purdobol
- Location: Poland
- Main keyboard: Custom
- Main mouse: MS WMO 1.1A
- Favorite switch: Marquardt Butterfly
- DT Pro Member: -
R05 - timeout - started receiving clock from the board, but didn't receive enough for a full code
R06 - start bit - read a start bit, but it was incorrect
Come to think of it maybe it's a busted cable. Do you have multimeter by any chance?
Checking continuity and pinout may help.
R06 - start bit - read a start bit, but it was incorrect
Come to think of it maybe it's a busted cable. Do you have multimeter by any chance?
Checking continuity and pinout may help.
- Wazrach
- Location: Tyne and Wear, United Kingdom
- Main mouse: Razer Viper 8KHz/ Viper Mini
- Favorite switch: Buckling springs
- DT Pro Member: -
If you mean the condition of the cable, it's in beautiful condition. Practically like new. It doesn't match up with the state of the foam and the corrosion on the barrel frame... https://postimg.cc/rz9msCtspurdobol wrote: ↑13 Jul 2019, 12:16R05 - timeout - started receiving clock from the board, but didn't receive enough for a full code
R06 - start bit - read a start bit, but it was incorrect
Come to think of it maybe it's a busted cable. Do you have multimeter by any chance?
Checking continuity and pinout may help.
Are the problems not a result of the Set 1 protocol?
- purdobol
- Location: Poland
- Main keyboard: Custom
- Main mouse: MS WMO 1.1A
- Favorite switch: Marquardt Butterfly
- DT Pro Member: -
I give up. Have no clue what's wrong. Either it's:
1. Busted wiring (data - clock cables swapped)
2. Busted chip on the controller or some part of the controller board.
3. Some exotic protocol which I seriously doubt. IBM was all about standardization and compatibility.
1. Busted wiring (data - clock cables swapped)
2. Busted chip on the controller or some part of the controller board.
3. Some exotic protocol which I seriously doubt. IBM was all about standardization and compatibility.
- Wazrach
- Location: Tyne and Wear, United Kingdom
- Main mouse: Razer Viper 8KHz/ Viper Mini
- Favorite switch: Buckling springs
- DT Pro Member: -
Thanks for your help, regardless. I'm going to wait a bit longer and see if anyone knows what the issue is. If nobody knows, then I'll just have to get an XWhatsit.purdobol wrote: ↑13 Jul 2019, 12:37I give up. Have no clue what's wrong. Either it's:
1. Busted wiring (data - clock cables swapped)
2. Busted chip on the controller or some part of the controller board.
3. Some exotic protocol which I seriously doubt. IBM was all about standardization and compatibility.
But before that, I need to figure out why the force protocol command won't work.
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
You do know that Soarer’s Converter resets every time you write a config? So you need that force command at the top of whatever else you’re doing.
I’m guessing you’re just going with that one command here anyway.
I’m guessing you’re just going with that one command here anyway.
- Wazrach
- Location: Tyne and Wear, United Kingdom
- Main mouse: Razer Viper 8KHz/ Viper Mini
- Favorite switch: Buckling springs
- DT Pro Member: -
I'm literally just dragging an .sc file with "force set3" into scaswr.bat
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
Try running scas separately. You might be achieving nothing due to an error the batch file obscures.
(Bear in mind the last .bat file I ran was in the 1980s though!)
(Bear in mind the last .bat file I ran was in the 1980s though!)
- Wazrach
- Location: Tyne and Wear, United Kingdom
- Main mouse: Razer Viper 8KHz/ Viper Mini
- Favorite switch: Buckling springs
- DT Pro Member: -
Thanks for the tip, but what do you mean? Scaswr.bat is obviously working, because I can restore the settings to default with legacy.sc
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
It works with lagacy.sc but maybe it’s choking on yours. I honestly don’t know what .bat files do with error messages. But I know scas and it’ll tell you when you’re doing it wrong.
- Wazrach
- Location: Tyne and Wear, United Kingdom
- Main mouse: Razer Viper 8KHz/ Viper Mini
- Favorite switch: Buckling springs
- DT Pro Member: -
Nah, I don't get any errors.
Such a shame this isn't working, I feel like I'm so close to the solution...
- Wazrach
- Location: Tyne and Wear, United Kingdom
- Main mouse: Razer Viper 8KHz/ Viper Mini
- Favorite switch: Buckling springs
- DT Pro Member: -
Okay, so it's not the protocol that's the issue. When I plug in just the Set 3 converter and no keyboard, it's set to PC/XT and Set 1 until a keyboard is detected. I get an R05 error when I plug in the Battleship, so I need to try and figure out what the issue is.
Is it possible it's making use of the Reset pin like the Zenith Z-150 and Leading Edge DC-2014? Or is the controller just dead? It looks like the keyboard has been bashed, as some parts of the case at the back have broken off and the two "tube feet" that support the assembly in the metal pan have been badly damaged. There are no scratches anywhere, though.
Again, such a shame I can't contact the other two buyers somehow and ask them if they are experiencing similar issues.
Is it possible it's making use of the Reset pin like the Zenith Z-150 and Leading Edge DC-2014? Or is the controller just dead? It looks like the keyboard has been bashed, as some parts of the case at the back have broken off and the two "tube feet" that support the assembly in the metal pan have been badly damaged. There are no scratches anywhere, though.
Again, such a shame I can't contact the other two buyers somehow and ask them if they are experiencing similar issues.