Alps restoration guide

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Chyros

09 Oct 2019, 12:55

Over the course of the previous weeks I've released a series of videos on how to restore Alps switches, including an experimental lube guide; be sure to check it out if you haven't yet: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... BSWbSz25vI

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Obscure

09 Oct 2019, 15:21

Brilliant and satisfactorily exhaustive as always, especially the click on release fix was very helpful - thank you so much.

I'm just wondering why you did not mention the possibility to clean the contacts directly when the switch does not register any more, not just with compressed air but e.g. moving a piece of paper between the contacts - or did I miss something?
I agree on it's easier to desolder and swap with a working one. But I wanted to keep my board as original as possible, thus I did not want to solder. So I gave it a try. To be honest, on one switch I had to do it for three times and I don't know if I rubbed off the gold plating and shortened the switches TLL massively - but it was not working anyhow.

In this business you always have to consider the risks. You clearly boil it down to the sentence: If it isn't broken, don't attempt to fix it".
But if it is broken yet the strategy should be the logic conclusion of "rule No. 1". To go from soft to invasive. I would consider pulling a piece of paper between the contacts a soft method, but breaking the housing when opening the switch for the third time will tell you took the wrong decision (mine didn't, luckily). Keeping in mind to rethink strategies from time to time.

For lubing I used Dry lube chain spray with PTFE as seen with others - at least it did not make it worse.

cheers
Last edited by Obscure on 09 Oct 2019, 16:09, edited 2 times in total.

daguil68367

09 Oct 2019, 16:03

Does anyone know if you would be able to use the IPA suspension method with the tungsten disulfide powder, like how it was done with the PTFE powder?

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SneakyRobb
THINK

09 Oct 2019, 16:59

I liked this, but part 4 is incomplete without mayonnaise and toothpaste test data. No internet test is complete without these 2 essential materials.

*Obviously good job and very informative otherwise

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Polecat

09 Oct 2019, 17:30

SneakyRobb wrote:
09 Oct 2019, 16:59
I liked this, but part 4 is incomplete without mayonnaise and toothpaste test data. No internet test is complete without these 2 essential materials.
As contaminants, or as lube?

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CountNoctua

09 Oct 2019, 22:50

SneakyRobb wrote:
09 Oct 2019, 16:59
I liked this, but part 4 is incomplete without mayonnaise and toothpaste test data. No internet test is complete without these 2 essential materials.
You're thinking of thermal paste testing.

Image

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Obscure

10 Oct 2019, 10:15

Bacteriostatic lube minimizes the risk of bacterial infections and fungus in the slw̶itch.

andrewjoy

10 Oct 2019, 15:09

CountNoctua wrote:
09 Oct 2019, 22:50

Image
I have done that with IPA a few times before installing the CPU .

You would be surprised how may so called "dead" boards come to life after that.

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SneakyRobb
THINK

10 Oct 2019, 17:15

CountNoctua wrote:
09 Oct 2019, 22:50
SneakyRobb wrote:
09 Oct 2019, 16:59
I liked this, but part 4 is incomplete without mayonnaise and toothpaste test data. No internet test is complete without these 2 essential materials.
You're thinking of thermal paste testing.

Exactly! What if mayo really does work for Alps?

Or toothpaste, it could also work to keep it clean.
Just like thermal paste tests
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andrewjoy

10 Oct 2019, 18:27

Not surprised a rosewill product is worse than toohpaste.

Myself i use thermal grizzly ( the paste not the liquid metal) for my high end stuff, and GD-900 from china for lower end stuff/ work, that stuff is as good as MX-4 but you can get about half a ton of it for the price of a tube of MX-4

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CountNoctua

10 Oct 2019, 23:13

I use Noctua NT-H1 and NT-H2. It's one the best overall in terms of ease of application, no burn-in required, and performance. Thermal Grizzly is better but not as easy to apply, plus Noctua includes the paste with their coolers, so I usually have at least one tube on hand. (speaking of which, my new blacked out U12S just came in 8-) ).

andrewjoy

11 Oct 2019, 10:49

CountNoctua wrote:
10 Oct 2019, 23:13
my new blacked out U12S just came in 8-) ).
Stay true to the beige and brown! I love noctua and how they do business. They refused flat out to do blacked out coolers until they could work out a way to not loose performance from raw nickle plated copper.

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