A yellowed '86 "Type I" Model M122

What do you think I should do with this?

Poll ended at 03 Jun 2020, 00:36

Try retrobriting?
7
64%
Try painting?
4
36%
Try vinyl wrapping?
0
No votes
 
Total votes: 11

User avatar
sharktastica

27 May 2020, 00:36

So today, I received this 'little' fella in the mail.
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IMG_20200526_192546464.jpg (388.56 KiB) Viewed 708 times
A yellowed M122. Even considering the piss-poor lighting of my room, you can see a stark contrast with the patch of white on the top-right area of the keyboard where a sticker once resided. The fact that it was yellowed took my be surprise, especially considering the listing photos showed the keyboard to be a very very light shade of white and no mention of yellowing was in the description.

Naturally, I'm slightly disappointed but at least there's something to learn from this keyboard - there's something different about the plastic (or this is not yellowing at all but smoke or chemical damage?). I'm not a chemist by any means, so if you've got a better idea about the problem I'm dealing with, I'd love to hear about it. Anyway, I assumed that this being an early M122 that it would have basically the same casing as an F122 - in fact, to the touch, the case feels hardened and easy-to-snap like a Model F case. I'm thinking about testing with acetone to see if it's ABS anyhow.

As for the fact that I thought I was being sold a (relatively) crystal white M122 - whilst I could try making some sort of dispute with the seller, I've decided to let it slide because this was an international purchase and I don't fancy going through the hassle of returning this. Nor did I even pay that much to begin with. As for the functionality of the keyboard, it works perfectly and the keycaps were in good shape (if not a little dirty). I've stuck Wheelwriter keycaps on this for the moment. Not many rivets have broken either.
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As you can see, this is a so-called "MF122". Model M internals, F-like styling and feet. I've put this side by side with the also F-style but normal-style feet and top casing material M122 below. I refer to them Type I (top) and Type II (bottom) to differentiate.
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And the bottoms.
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As for what to do with this now, I'm still deliberating between retrobriting (if this is indeed ABS) or jazzing it up with a little paint. What do you think?

User avatar
fohat
Elder Messenger

27 May 2020, 01:10

I have never seen a 1st generation 122-key M terminal from Greenock, so I can't say for sure, but my understanding was that Model M cases are PVC. But then again, Greenock made ABS space bars, so who knows. Honestly, I have never seen a yellowed IBM M/F case.

I say don't do anything for a bit and see if it equalizes. If it is ABS, then a light retro-briting is probably a good idea.

User avatar
ddrfraser1

27 May 2020, 01:32

I painted my F and M 122s. Perhaps these pics will inform your decision. The only thing I don't like about retrobriting is that it turned out uneven for me. :(

F122 after.jpg
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IMG_E2657.JPG (3.46 MiB) Viewed 671 times

User avatar
sharktastica

27 May 2020, 13:46

fohat wrote:
27 May 2020, 01:10
I have never seen a 1st generation 122-key M terminal from Greenock, so I can't say for sure, but my understanding was that Model M cases are PVC. But then again, Greenock made ABS space bars, so who knows. Honestly, I have never seen a yellowed IBM M/F case.
Hmm. I'm beginning to think that material usage wasn't so clear-cut with IBM. And for the record, my Lexmark Quiet Touch M (P/N 71G4644) is also yellowed too. Question is, are these just exceptions are the rule of the era? Guess I gotta find out.

User avatar
sharktastica

27 May 2020, 13:49

ddrfraser1 wrote:
27 May 2020, 01:32
I painted my F and M 122s. Perhaps these pics will inform your decision. The only thing I don't like about retrobriting is that it turned out uneven for me. :(
Yeah, I've seen some retrobriting horror stories. Like even for David Murray/The 8-Bit Guy, he's had things come out marbly (like his Osbourne portable PC restoration). As for the photos, they're both quite gorgeous! I am to paint mine, I was thinking about some sort of dark grey like your first one. Or maybe even IBM industrial grey.

User avatar
Willy4876

29 May 2020, 01:02

sharktastica wrote:
27 May 2020, 13:49
ddrfraser1 wrote:
27 May 2020, 01:32
I painted my F and M 122s. Perhaps these pics will inform your decision. The only thing I don't like about retrobriting is that it turned out uneven for me. :(
Yeah, I've seen some retrobriting horror stories. Like even for David Murray/The 8-Bit Guy, he's had things come out marbly (like his Osbourne portable PC restoration). As for the photos, they're both quite gorgeous! I am to paint mine, I was thinking about some sort of dark grey like your first one. Or maybe even IBM industrial grey.
Even if retrobriting doesn't work then there is no reason that you couldn't paint it afterwards.

User avatar
ddrfraser1

29 May 2020, 01:47

Truth

User avatar
sharktastica

29 May 2020, 19:53

True!

kmnov2017

30 Jun 2020, 09:04

sharktastica wrote:
27 May 2020, 13:49
ddrfraser1 wrote:
27 May 2020, 01:32
I painted my F and M 122s. Perhaps these pics will inform your decision. The only thing I don't like about retrobriting is that it turned out uneven for me. :(
Yeah, I've seen some retrobriting horror stories. Like even for David Murray/The 8-Bit Guy, he's had things come out marbly (like his Osbourne portable PC restoration). As for the photos, they're both quite gorgeous! I am to paint mine, I was thinking about some sort of dark grey like your first one. Or maybe even IBM industrial grey.
If you use hydrogen peroxide cream that will likely cause the marbling effect. If you use Hydrogen Peroxide liquid and immerse the entire thing in the solution, the results are likely to be way better.

EnthusiastDude

30 Jun 2020, 09:25

Well, if you want to sell it instead send me a PM, since I just bought that F127 with the damaged case and I'm desperately looking for an F-style M122 to replace the case.

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