Hi everyone I recently got a model M that had a bad membrane and was able to screw mod it and replace it. Overall I am happy with it, but I have had a strange issue, occasionally I will get a double keypress when pressing the key once. For example if I am trying to type “v” the computer will receive “vv”
I first had the problem with the V key, and after taking the board apparat and replacing the spring and flipper assembly the problem appeared to go away. However it has not resurfaced with the R key. I don’t mind taking it apart again, but I was wondering what could be causing this so that I could try to avoid it when assembling it this time.
Keyboard pic:
https://i.imgur.com/hu2vz85.png
1993 IBM model m sending double key presses
-
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: Unicomp Ultra Classic
- DT Pro Member: -
- Contact:
For some reason I have a similar issue with my first-attempt screw-mod. This board sends - continuously on starting up the computer up until I press the - key (does not matter which key, the key on the numpad or the one next to right shift). After that everything works like it should. First I thought a slightly misaligned membrane could be the reason but I doubt it is.
Last edited by feltel on 06 Apr 2021, 18:51, edited 1 time in total.
- paperWasp
- Location: Czech Republic, Europe
- Main keyboard: CHERRY G80-3000 S TKL
- Main mouse: Microsoft Basic Optical Mouse 2.0
- Favorite switch: MX Brown
This can be quite easily fixed at the operating system level.
Windows: (I believe from XP to latest 10) using an HKCU "Keyboard Response", "Bounce Time" registry hack. I prefer 22ms value here.
Linux: (Mint/Cinnamon) in Accessiblity Settings - there's a slider for this setting (something almost left seems to be the right value).
Mac: Dunno. But there must be a similar setting.
Windows: (I believe from XP to latest 10) using an HKCU "Keyboard Response", "Bounce Time" registry hack. I prefer 22ms value here.
Linux: (Mint/Cinnamon) in Accessiblity Settings - there's a slider for this setting (something almost left seems to be the right value).
Mac: Dunno. But there must be a similar setting.
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
Bear in mind you’re telling your computer to sit around and wait on all incoming keystrokes, from all keyboards, just to make sure they don’t bounce. I wouldn’t advise doing this if you type fast, let alone game!
I believe there is no way to do this on Mac (not even in Karabiner to my knowledge) and I’m surely not looking for one.
I believe there is no way to do this on Mac (not even in Karabiner to my knowledge) and I’m surely not looking for one.
- paperWasp
- Location: Czech Republic, Europe
- Main keyboard: CHERRY G80-3000 S TKL
- Main mouse: Microsoft Basic Optical Mouse 2.0
- Favorite switch: MX Brown
Maybe you need more than 45 key downs and ups of the same key in one second while gaming. Maybe there are gamers with such a fast finger. While fast touch typing you possibly might have problems with words like (account, bliss, cell... etc.) but 22ms seem to be fast enough. I'm a touch typist and this is my fine tuned value. Other people (or keyboards) may need different values.
Btw. don't keyboard controllers filter bouncing as well? Couldn't be the OP's problem also here...?
I've exported this registry setting from my work laptop:
Btw. don't keyboard controllers filter bouncing as well? Couldn't be the OP's problem also here...?
I've exported this registry setting from my work laptop:
Spoiler:
- wobbled
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: HHKB PD-KB300 Pro 1
- Main mouse: Logitech MX Master 3
- Favorite switch: Topre
- DT Pro Member: 0192
I wouldn't mess with software / registry hacks before attempting to fix it at a hardware level. Every time I've had double key inputs from a Model M I've fixed it by reseating the spring and/or key stems.
- Wulfspade
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: tofu 65 built with box jades.
- Favorite switch: Box Jades
Ideally I would like to fix it on the hardware level. The converter I am using is this one could that be part of the issue?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IACID ... asin_title
I will take the board home tonight and try to reseat the spring and keycap. Could it be something to do with the tension of the screws?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IACID ... asin_title
I will take the board home tonight and try to reseat the spring and keycap. Could it be something to do with the tension of the screws?
- Muirium
- µ
- Location: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Main keyboard: HHKB Type-S with Bluetooth by Hasu
- Main mouse: Apple Magic Mouse
- Favorite switch: Gotta Try 'Em All
- DT Pro Member: µ
Most definitely a suspect in this inquiry!
Haven’t got a native PS/2 machine to test it with? Another option, which would make the keyboard fully programmable, is one of Orihalcon’s ready made Soarer’s converters.
Haven’t got a native PS/2 machine to test it with? Another option, which would make the keyboard fully programmable, is one of Orihalcon’s ready made Soarer’s converters.
- lhutton
- Location: NC, US
- Main keyboard: Model M
- Main mouse: Whatever's handy
- Favorite switch: Anything not butterfly switch
- DT Pro Member: 0243
I've seen this on a few bolt or screw modded M's. Try backing off the screw tension around that key. The screws hold tighter than the plastic rivets and it's real easy to over tighten them. Next thing I'd look at is make sure no schmoo from the bolt modding process got in between the sheets of the new membrane too.
You might have also gotten a dud replacement membrane.
You might have also gotten a dud replacement membrane.
- Wulfspade
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: tofu 65 built with box jades.
- Favorite switch: Box Jades
Hi Everyone,
I just wanted to give an update for anyone who finds this thread in the future. I tried reseating the spring and cap, and it seems to have fixed the issue. It’s now been a week of typing and so far no repeats.
I do not believe that the converter was the issue here, as it appeared to only be one key rather than constant across the board.
Thanks to everyone for the help! I really appreciate it, and I’m looking forward to using my bold modded model m for many years to come.
I just wanted to give an update for anyone who finds this thread in the future. I tried reseating the spring and cap, and it seems to have fixed the issue. It’s now been a week of typing and so far no repeats.
I do not believe that the converter was the issue here, as it appeared to only be one key rather than constant across the board.
Thanks to everyone for the help! I really appreciate it, and I’m looking forward to using my bold modded model m for many years to come.