New project! Vintage keyboards restoration and vintage switches sound tests!!
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clickandthock
- Location: Canada
- Main keyboard: Northgate Omnikey 102
- Main mouse: mx master 3
- Favorite switch: White Alps
- Contact:
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clickandthock
- Location: Canada
- Main keyboard: Northgate Omnikey 102
- Main mouse: mx master 3
- Favorite switch: White Alps
- Contact:
Thanks!! 
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snacksthecat
- ✶✶✶✶
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: SSK
- Main mouse: BenQ ZOWIE EC1-A
- DT Pro Member: 0205
- Contact:
I love everything about the video. Change nothing and make more!
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inozenz
- Location: Germany
i think there is room for growth, without making too much effort, since he is already really skilled with video editing.snacksthecat wrote: ↑08 Sep 2021, 23:04I love everything about the video. Change nothing and make more!
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hellothere
- Location: Mesa, AZ USA
- Main keyboard: Lots
- Main mouse: CST2545W-RC
- Favorite switch: TopreAlpsHallEffectTopreAlpsHallEffectTopreAlps
Speling is important. "Restoration." "Hear."
The graphics are a tad too fast.
You tease old switches vs. new, but you never compare old vs. new.
You remove all the key caps and don't show why. I see that you've cleaned the key switch mounting plate. Did you clean the switches? Just the caps?
It would have been cool to show off the sliding foot. I think that's one of the defining characteristics of the AEK II.
The sentence scrolling at the start of the "de-yellowing" section doesn't make sense or the words are out of order. If you aren't a native English speaker, I won't complain, as I speak and write only one language and I can't even do that consistently. If you are, you might want to proofread your text more.
If you didn't know, the Apple logo thingy can be removed. (I didn't know until someone here mentioned it and I have about 8 AEKs, ATM.) There's a pinhole in the underside of the top case for it on most Apple keyboards. Push in a pin and the Apple logo will pop out. As you discovered, retr0brighting will cause the logo to discolor, at best, or all the colors will strip off and leave you with a silver logo.
As a general comment, Apple keyboards have been the hardest ones for me to retr0bright. Even if I check every hour, there's about a 50% probability that the case will turn out too white. You could also say that if the case is whiter than the keywork, it's been retr0brighted too long. This is one of the reasons I'm looking into painting plastics.
I recommend against using plastic wrap for retr0brighting. You can get uneven bleaching lines all over your case. I recommend putting the case in a plastic bin of some kind, drop in the case, and cover it with your retr0bright mix. I can do a case with about 1/2 gallon or so of hydrogen peroxide cream. All of about $9 and totally worth it.
I think the AEK II is now the best (usually) Alps keyboard to recommend. It's very common and you can get yellowed versions for under $100 on ebay. Who cares if it's yellowed? It feels great!
This review was typed on my AEK II ... that has Mitsumi Standard Mechanical switches
.
The graphics are a tad too fast.
You tease old switches vs. new, but you never compare old vs. new.
You remove all the key caps and don't show why. I see that you've cleaned the key switch mounting plate. Did you clean the switches? Just the caps?
It would have been cool to show off the sliding foot. I think that's one of the defining characteristics of the AEK II.
The sentence scrolling at the start of the "de-yellowing" section doesn't make sense or the words are out of order. If you aren't a native English speaker, I won't complain, as I speak and write only one language and I can't even do that consistently. If you are, you might want to proofread your text more.
If you didn't know, the Apple logo thingy can be removed. (I didn't know until someone here mentioned it and I have about 8 AEKs, ATM.) There's a pinhole in the underside of the top case for it on most Apple keyboards. Push in a pin and the Apple logo will pop out. As you discovered, retr0brighting will cause the logo to discolor, at best, or all the colors will strip off and leave you with a silver logo.
As a general comment, Apple keyboards have been the hardest ones for me to retr0bright. Even if I check every hour, there's about a 50% probability that the case will turn out too white. You could also say that if the case is whiter than the keywork, it's been retr0brighted too long. This is one of the reasons I'm looking into painting plastics.
I recommend against using plastic wrap for retr0brighting. You can get uneven bleaching lines all over your case. I recommend putting the case in a plastic bin of some kind, drop in the case, and cover it with your retr0bright mix. I can do a case with about 1/2 gallon or so of hydrogen peroxide cream. All of about $9 and totally worth it.
I think the AEK II is now the best (usually) Alps keyboard to recommend. It's very common and you can get yellowed versions for under $100 on ebay. Who cares if it's yellowed? It feels great!
This review was typed on my AEK II ... that has Mitsumi Standard Mechanical switches
.