F104+SSK+122+62+77+50+Ergo orders now open! New Kishsaver+Industrial Model F Keyboards

[Ellipse]

resonator your experience is not usual. Many folks from the original shipment many years ago tell me their keyboard has not even had one spot of paint wear with daily usage. Some hands, oils, and lotions react differently to unprotected matte paint.

In summary, yes, the product page notes that everyone should expect the F62/F77 zinc case paint to wear over time, though most instances have the wear being far more gradual. Yours is one of the most extreme examples of wear, and I will make a general statement that in climates of high heat and humidity, unprotected matte paint may be more prone to wear, especially if someone is carrying around the keyboard in a backpack in and out of their home (not saying that any of this is the case here).

The only cases with a number of reports of wear from usage are the original paint formulation cases, and this was fully disclosed on the product page. The project has moved away from these cases but if you want the original project there is no other case option. Every zinc F62/F77 case has the same paint. As I mentioned a few years ago, I received the feedback loud and clear about the paint that more recent buyers care less about authenticity and favor increased durability, which is why the non-"exact reproduction" painted cases (the cases other than the reproduction zinc F62/F77) use a tougher powdercoating formulation, though like all matte uncoated paint is still vulnerable to slight finish imperfections, but nothing like what is shown in your photo. These original project cases were produced without these changes and so will be more prone to wear.

Worn paint has not been reported on cases with the new paint formulation, which started shipping in 2022 on the ultra compact die cast cases (the two piece cases, not the anodized and CNC milled first production cases). If you value appearances and durability these other case keyboards may be a better fit, though they are also subject to chips and wear, as reported by one person recently, out of several hundred keyboards shipped.

As shown in the video posted a while back (below), the newer formulations are far tougher (don't try this on your keyboard though - for example only - not the exact powdercoating used on the new cases but similar):

Since these issues have been reported {Edit for clarification - but the discount is not specifically due to any reported issue, but instead they are due to regular business pricing decisions}, rather than keep prices at their original level and only offer free parts to those who complain, I have taken $125 to $150 off the price of these boards and have discounted replacement cases by half for everyone, but I stand by the project's disclosed note that unprotected painted cases are subject to wear, especially where you place your hands for heavy daily usage. As I have explained, one reason cases are not replaced for paint wear is that the replacement will also have the same paint finish, so it too would wear in a similar amount of time. Folks will be using these keyboards, despite visible wear, for many years, whether they have one case that wears and then they get another free case that wears again or whether they accept that the cases wear down in the spots where they are handled.

Since this was disclosed right on the product page, this should not be a surprise to prospective buyers.

[mbarszcz]

A few pages back I was trying to resolve issues with scratchy keys. I tried all sorts of experiments but I couldn't fix it. I improved it mildly by swaping caps, but I had no solution.

Today my replacement caps and barrels arrived so I replaced the stratchy keys, which of course fixed it. Inspecting the inside of the barrels showed a fair amount of wear and visible scraping on the inside (even those which I didn't experiement on). I can't say the cause, but I think those keys were always scratchy and worsened over time.

I'm not saying it'll always be the case, but I think the only remedy to my problem was to replace the barrels. I replaced the caps as well, but it's possible that wasn't needed.

I had the same thing as you resonator on the scratchy keys, especially on left ctrl, left tab and somewhat on caps lock. I found that just a drop of Teflon Dry lube on the outside of the stems helps immensely much like on Alps stems. I posted this in a comment on Chyrosran22's video. Ellipse mentioned in the comments there that he has had no reports of this and to follow the setup guide's steps to fix this. Nothing in there helped me resolve this though. No amount of burnishing, wiggling, bending, or breaking in made it any better. Like you said, it just got worse over time

Just wanted to share the dry lube tip since it helped me.

[idollar]

Since these issues have been reported, rather than keep prices at their original level and only offer free parts to those who complain, I have taken $125 to $150 off the price of these boards and have discounted replacement cases by half for everyone, but I stand by the project's disclosed note that unprotected painted cases are subject to wear, especially where you place your hands for heavy daily usage. As I have explained, one reason cases are not replaced for paint wear is that the replacement will also have thhttps://www.modelfkeyboards.com/product/f62-mod ... ishsaver/e same paint finish, so it too would wear in a similar amount of time. Folks will be using these keyboards, despite visible wear, for many years, whether they have one case that wears and then they get another free case that wears again or whether they accept that the cases wear down in the spots where they are handled.

Since this was disclosed right on the product page, this should not be a surprise to prospective buyers.

Dear Model F Labs LLC,

I am checking you company page and product description. I cannot find the reference to the paint issue leading to the discount. In the product description the following is mentioned:

https://www.modelfkeyboards.com/product ... kishsaver/

Case: The colors are shown in the photos and lower on this page you can see each color with a label identifying the name of the paint color finish. Off-White/Beige was the standard original IBM color used on the IBM Model M and Model F keyboards and others, while Industrial Gray was used on IBM’s Industrial PC line. The cases are die cast metal (zinc) with a paint/powdercoating finish. There are no plastic case Brand New Model F keyboards. You can click the link at the beginning of this paragraph to order a spare case in another color if you’d like to switch (pun intended!) things up in the future.

With no reference to the issue in your post.

Later you say:

The limited warranty covers neither cosmetic damage upon arrival nor wear from usage over time, which means that you will have to live with an imperfect keyboard or touch up the keyboard with a can of sample paint. The reason is that the cases were designed to reproduce the old matte powdercoating paint style IBM approved in the 1970s and 80s when beam spring and their Model F successor keyboards were designed.

Therefore your statement:

yes, the product page notes that everyone should expect the F62/F77 zinc case paint to wear over time,

is incorrect. The product page states that in case of paint issues due to wear the product will not be replaced. Instead it should sat that everyone should expect the F62/F77 zinc case paint to wear over time.

In case that you sell to the EU

The EU law forces also that this is linked to the discount price. Indeed, you said that the discount is partially due to this. EU law imposes that the reason for the discount is explicit.

Finally, in the particular case of the EU directives, in case of deficiencies or product issues EXPLICIT confirmation from the user of the SPECIFIC issues shall be provided before the sale is closed. Otherwise, the disclaimer in the guarantee is considered law-fraud.

[idollar]

Dear Model F Lab LLC,

Regarding the old and new paint the CE marking or equivalent certification for other regions is very important.
The pain will be in contact with the skin and may produce allergic reactions or event works diseases. I am sure that you do not want this to happen.

Could you please indicate the certification/s applicable to your products ?

Thanks

[wobbled]

So ellipse you say that level of wear is unusual, yet you make no offer to replace the case or offer compensation?
I hope people start seeing what you are truly like after this.

[Ellipse]

To be clear, the discount is not related specifically to the point about wear, so a disclosure that a discount is due to product wear of the cases is not necessary.

Sellers are free to change pricing for any or no reason. Often discounts are done for various business reasons not related to what is being discussed here, and correlation does not imply causation.

All I noted was that I have since discounted the product after many years on the market, not that I discounted the product because of the wear. If that was not clear, please understand this clarifying post.

My point was to indicate that rather than ask everyone to spend the full $399+ amount and then get a free extra case a year later, there is enough of a price reduction now to allow everyone to buy one or two replacement cases if they wanted to, even though these replacements would be of the same paint and would therefore also be subject to wear over time, or decide to benefit from the price change and accept the condition of the product that they read in the product description.

At this point again, we have a couple folks beating a dead horse. For years I have disclosed that paint wear is an acceptable fact of these cases and there are no guarantees on cosmetic condition, and for years one or two folks have repeated the same point that I should replace all worn cases for free, which I have declined to do and have explained why many times. It is not necessary to keep repeating the same discussion, especially since the note on defects is on the product page, free for all to see before they decide whether or not to purchase a product with disclosed cosmetic defects, both upon arrival of the product and also during the first year of usage. A merchant is allowed to sell products with cosmetic defects and that may wear noticeably over time, as long as such notes are disclosed before purchase.

It is clear that a third party is making the most noise on these points, not even those who report the issues on their own keyboards care as much as these other one or two folks that do not even own the keyboards in question, nor do they report on their own ownership experience as often.

The paint wears over time, including within the first year, and for some folks it may wear more than other folks. The fact of cosmetic damage was disclosed right on the product page, so there should be no issue about wear being a surprise, even if some folks have more wear and most folks have no wear. Everyone who reads the product page is aware that if they order the product it is subject to wear.

Once more, only those who accepted the description of the product made the purchase. You cannot expect that the merchant discloses that the product will wear down over time, and then ask the merchant to provide free products because the product has worn down. The product page specifically does not guarantee the cosmetic finish. If you do not agree to the product description, then you are not required to buy the product, but no one can create their own terms that are the complete opposite of the provided terms.

[wobbled]

Model F: Built to Last for Decades, Not Years

So what, this is just a lie then I guess? Similar to the never ending...
'1/31/25 please have your orders in by then!

I don't think you've ever acknowledged the moving cut off date before? Is it because you'd have to acknowledge your scummy marketing just to increase urgency behind people throwing their money your way?

Anyway, the main point here is that people shouldn't have to buy extra cases, you should be providing them because you sent out a product that is, for lack of a better phrase, Shit.
Everyone is well aware that these cases will show usage over time, what product out there doesn't?
The key here though is that 'time' can be as little as under a year. I find that to be ludicrous. How can you advertise your product as 'lasting decades, not years' when they'll be missing significant amount of paint after only 9 months? Yes peoples skin oils, cream products etc etc will differ, but unless they're putting some extremely corrosive acids on their palms, I'd expect a paint job to last longer than 9 months lol.

You keep referring to the original IBM's and their issues with paint peeling too, except every 4704 board we've seen was 40+ years old by the time we had pictures of them. And for a large amount of these boards, they look in better shape than resonators board does.
You also recognize that his boards paint peeling is accelerated and out of the ordinary, yet still you offer no free replacement? I really don't know how you have the nerve to be this cheap that you can't even offer a replacement to someone who got effectively screwed by you after just 9 months.

Yes I'm making far much more noise over this than resonator is, but maybe I'm a bit more used to receiving walls of BS back from you as a response. The only person here that doesn't care about these cosmetic issues is you. Not a single offer for a replacement, or a partial refund to cover them getting their board re-finished. All you offer is lines of BS, or when you're feeling generous - a suggestion of a paint pen.

"only those who accepted the description of the product made the purchase"
You strike me as one of those weirdos that catch people out with small text on a contract.
Your website doesn't make it abundantly clear that peoples cases can be missing paint after mere months of usage. You don't have pictures on your website that show how your products wear over the course of just a year. You hide behind headings of 'BUILT TO LAST DECADES, NOT YEARS!'
That doesn't exactly scream to the user that the paint jobs r shite, and they'll be using a bare metal box after just 9 months.

[idollar]

I think it's time to summarize some facts from the recent posts:

• Model F Labs LLC's representative on DT is Ellipse — factual
• Model F Labs LLC will not share information — factual, as indicated by PM to me
• Model F Labs LLC sells products without CE marking to European countries — factual, as indicated by the missing answer
• Model F Labs LLC’s sales conditions are probably not aligned with EU directives regarding safety and warranty — factual, as indicated by this post
• Model F Labs LLC uses the GB section on DT to market its products — factual, as indicated by the thread where this is posted.
• Model F Labs LLC seems to sell (or at least has sold) products that get damaged with wear — as indicated by this post and the text "Yes, the product page notes that everyone should expect the F62/F77 zinc case paint to wear over time, though most instances have the wear being far more gradual."
• Model F Labs LLC does not provide a solution to the above. Instead, they refer to disclaimers and conditions to cover these cases — factual, as indicated by this post and other posts

In my view, the result of the above is negatively affecting the future of DT and should be addressed. This is not the only case, but perhaps the one that has lasted (and is still lasting) the longest.

It is time to review the case with the moderators. They should decide if this is the right example to follow as GB. They should also decide whether the most active post on DT should look like this.

Given that Model F Labs LLC will not share any information that could help other DT members with their projects, any effort to argue here is a waste of time.

Cheers

[resonator]

I had the same thing as you resonator on the scratchy keys, especially on left ctrl, left tab and somewhat on caps lock. I found that just a drop of Teflon Dry lube on the outside of the stems helps immensely much like on Alps stems. I posted this in a comment on Chyrosran22's video. Ellipse mentioned in the comments there that he has had no reports of this and to follow the setup guide's steps to fix this. Nothing in there helped me resolve this though. No amount of burnishing, wiggling, bending, or breaking in made it any better. Like you said, it just got worse over time

Just wanted to share the dry lube tip since it helped me.

Thanks for sharing. I'll keep it in mind if it happens again. For now my keys are all working nicely. Perhaps one day when I'm out of spare parts I might resort to reinstalling the retired broken barrels, but for now I'll probably just swap them out if they get scratchy. Hopefully it's not a regular thing, and they work near indefinitely from now on.

[resonator]

@Ellipse, could you please share generic colour codes used for the case paint? I could only find information that seemed to be specific to some US hardware store.

Thanks.

[Ellipse]

Yes, I shared them in the past - I had the original cases measured with a spectrophotometer - see the updates page of the project web site and one of my earlier posts. You can use these codes to match the paint for your own projects or for new powdercoating jobs.

[Ellipse]

As the factory wraps up assembly of the F122 over the next couple months:

There were some earlier reports of a number of new Model F boxes that got beat up in shipping. I am considering a more standard "regular slotted container" double-walled cardboard box for the F122 and beam spring boards because they are so heavy. Below is one of the prototype boxes I'll be receiving soon for evaluation. (It is in rougher shape as the sample was a one-off, not the regular completely machine-made box off a production line)

2024 01 box sample (2).jpg (1.54 MiB) Viewed 4256 times

2024 01 box sample (1).jpg (1.52 MiB) Viewed 4256 times

[Ellipse]

In light of these recent discussions on wear that varies based on climate, oils/lotions, and the way someone types and rubs their hands or palms across the case, I have been chatting with some folks about how their keyboard has held up.

With permission I am sharing a photo someone took of their own keyboard in the past day or so, which they report has held up well with daily usage over the past two and a half years. Very little wear. I only want to point this out because it is the same exact paint used with all of the zinc case keyboards, outside of texture/bump variations between batches. The wear is impacted by the climate, handling, and the way the keyboard is used, even if a keyboard is used for the exact same amount of time. For example, wear around the side edges where a hand does not normally rub while typing may be a clue that the keyboard is frequently handled or moved in a way that the keyboard is not secure in the original foam packaging, such as loose in a backpack.

Another example - on my own IBM F122 that I have used for a few years, my typing style often has me resting my thumbs on the case below the spacebar, but I do not usually rest my palms there, though they do brush against the case every now and then while I type. Even though the case is plastic I still see quite a bit of worn plastic area and significant loss of original case texture below the bottom row of keys, especially below the spacebar. Had this case been painted metal, it would be clear that the amount of wear would have gone through the layer of paint and to the metal, even though the case did not have this wear when I bought it. Yes obviously this is after a few years of daily usage and not after 9 months as was reported earlier in this thread, so my own comparison is not as exact as the comparison photo below.

Folks are free to post photos that they themselves have made, to show how their keyboards have held up, and not just the original F62/F77 classic case keyboards; however, the aim is not to bring up the discussion again but just as a contrasting data point, not repeating an example report again and again or copying photos that have previously been posted. Please post details on how the keyboard is handled/moved and whether your typing style has palms rubbing against the case or not.

So as not to clog the thread with copy and paste, if it is not your keyboard and you have not been given permission to repost an image, please do not spam the discussion with photos and points that have already been posted. Users are free to go to previous pages in the discussion to read what was said before; it is not necessary to copy and paste these postings to make folks read them again.

Everyone is allowed to have their own typing style but I remember someone who posted a copy of the IBM ergonomic booklet included with one of their bigfoot XT type keyboards (their post of photos is linked below) that showed how IBM specified that palms are not supposed to rest on their keyboards; I too remember this from my touch typing class in school. My intention is not to blame any user for their typing preferences but just to illustrate that heavy resting and rubbing of the keyboard bezel is not normally what is taught as normal, and that typing style may result in either less or more noticeable wear for unprotected matte painted metal surfaces, and in edge cases, wear through the paint in less than 1-2 years.

https://imgur.com/a/model-f-bigfoot-soarer-mod-DL40jO6

F62 after years of daily usage.jpg (1.6 MiB) Viewed 3847 times

[resonator]

To clarify the conditions under which my keyboard has been used, I live in Melbourne, Australia which is has temperate weather and I've never taken my keyboard out of the house. My typing style is to not touch the keyboard while I'm typing but I do allow my hands to relax on the keyboard between spells of typing.

You'd probably assume that the paint has worn through due to the slight abrasiveness of my hands rubbing against it but that is incorrect. Rather, my skin oils seem to to have dissolved the paint to point that it rubs off. On sections of the case that are never touched, the paint remains hard and intact.

After about two months of usage, I shared this video with Ellipse privately demonstrating how I can wipe the paint off.

[wobbled]

Ellipse, this may well be your thread, but this isn't your forum (despite your begging for people to fund it for you!), and we are free to bring up as many old (though relevant) posts. But thanks for the advice I guess?

You actually have the nerve to suggest that peoples typing styles are to blame for this? While resting palms might not be considered 'good form' one does not expect a $500 keyboard to fucking melt after 9 months of usage you actual troglodye.

Yes, congratulations, you've found a user that has supposedly used his/her keyboard for 2 and a half years with little to no signs of damage. What does this prove exactly when there are significant amounts of users that DO have issues with their case paint melting away. It proves luck, if anything. But It also proves that QC in this project is a fucking non-existent joke that got put on the back burner in favour of a quick sale and profit. Getting a good board is luck of the draw at this point.

Tell me, if you put resonators video on the front page of your website to show people what they should / could expect after less than 1 year of ownership, would you make any sales?
No, hence why you put anything relating to quality issues in small text for users to deep dive before making a purchase for a product that is 'BUILT TO LAST DECADES, NOT YEARS'. Talk about false advertising.

Resonator, thank you for posting the video because this just proves that these boards do have some major issues. Sure they don't effect every board out there. (Full disclosure, both my F62 and F77 that I used to own held up ok, albeit I only used them for 6 months before going back to Topre full time.) but the boards that are effected literally melt away, and ZERO support is offered from ellipse in the form of replacements or refunds.

Ellipse, for fuck sake man, 'typing form' is not the bloody issue here. Quit the CEO businessman bellendery for a minute and go back to being a human being? I actually enjoyed talking to you back in the day about old IBM boards back when you were a person and not Model F Labs LLC.
You sold something that was shit to someone for a lot of money, not everything you sell is shit, but this particular sale to resonator clearly had some production issues, the paint must've been applied incorrectly. And your 'paint pen' suggestions can basically eat a dick. Again, unless this guys putting some corrosive shite on his hands for no reason, this paint shouldn't be coming off after 9 months.

Joe, are you going to do anything to put this right? Or should we just expect more marketing shite from Model F Labs LLC?

[Ellipse]

I didn't realize we had already discussed the issue earlier and that it continued to get worse. However since no one else reported this and the issue is in the exact areas where a thumb would rest, I still believe this particular issue is due to skin contact with the paint and is particular to your combination of paint and hands, unless we are seeing dozens and dozens of the exact same thing reported by others.

As a one-off if you'd like, I would like to send a replacement case your way; please email me to follow up on this. I am curious whether the second case will have similar results because the paint is the same, so please do email me around year end. I expect it to! Please note that I am out of beige cases so you'll have to pick another color.

However, I still maintain the project's terms that wear, even wear within the first 1-2 years, is not guaranteed to be replaced for free, even in a similar situation as what was posted here, and since the product description has made note of cosmetic defects and wear, everyone has all of the information available before they make a purchase decision and they should consider other options if the paint finish is their primary selection criteria. Everyone should expect cosmetic damage and wear within 1-2 years, especially on the original paint style F62/F77.

[resonator]

Resonator, thank you for posting the video because this just proves that these boards do have some major issues. Sure they don't effect every board out there... but the boards that are effected literally melt away...

I'm trying to keep out of the drama but I think every one of these boards probably is affected, but only some people are. I'm thinking there's something about me that melts the paint and the only solution would be a change to the formula. I say this with a sample size of one, but I suspect any replacement I got would be destroyed just as quickly.

I'm not defending Ellipse, or the product. This should not be an issue. The only solution is probably a change to the paint formula, which I understand has already happened. For me, and those like me who happen to trash the paint, the only fix is probably a new paint job with different paint.

As a one-off if you'd like, I would like to send a replacement case your way; please email me to follow up on this. I am curious whether the second case will have similar results because the paint is the same, so please do email me around year end. I expect it to! Please note that I am out of beige cases so you'll have to pick another color.

Thanks Ellipse. I appreciate the offer. Can I take an industrial gray? Also, can you please recommend a type of clear coat that I can put over it?

[Ellipse]

Sure resonator - please send me an email so we can arrange this. I see that you shared your findings including this video back in June in an earlier post on this thread.

I have had success with Rustoleum spray paint, so their other products may prove good as well.

Stolen/missing keyboard alert:

A Model M classic case style Industrial Gray keyboard was reported stolen or missing.

Serial number 354

Please watch out for any such keyboards appearing for sale online or elsewhere and let me know right away. If you see an industrial gray keyboard without the serial label shown, or with the label removed, that could be this board.

[Ellipse]

Project blog update:

The latest blog post has been posted on the project web site updates page:

https://www.modelfkeyboards.com/blog/

Please head over there for a collection of the various production updates and new reviews, photos, keyboard layouts, and key sets.

This blog covers essentially the second half of 2024 as I have been quite late with this entry as I was coordinating the container shipment and then mailing out all of the various hundreds and hundreds of orders for the new Model M style F104 and FSSK keyboards and orders of various other extras and other style Model F and Round 1 beam spring keyboards.

[Ellipse]

F122 Update:

I have asked the factory to load the new F122 boards that are ready to ship onto a container that can go out later this month, instead of waiting for all the F122's to be completed. They are going to try to get this done before their new year break.

This means that those who have previously ordered, plus a small number of additional orders, can possibly go out earlier than planned (the container ship is normally about 2 months, including customs processing and trucking arrangements for final delivery).

The rest of the F122's should go out in the following container shipment with the Round 2 beam spring keyboards later this year.

[soyuz]

And yet, still not apologizing for announcing your beamspring project in someone else's thread.

[wobbled]

And yet, still not apologizing for announcing your beamspring project in someone else's thread.

He can be pressured into offering a single refund, but trying to make him a decent person?!? Good luck with that one

[Ellipse]

With permission I am sharing another unique setup - the F104 in Industrial Gray with a Big Enter key and a mix of other Wheelwriter and other keys. The user notes that the big enter key can be installed regularly without having to remove the spring of the | \ key below the backspace (just disable the key in Vial).

This year I hope to resume the projects for the 3 additional keys (Big Enter, ISO Enter non-stepped, Code) and for the pad printed keys now that the backlog is wrapping up.

PC AT Big Enter.jpg (286.21 KiB) Viewed 2522 times

[soyuz]

With permission I am sharing another unique setup - the F104 in Industrial Gray with a Big Enter key and a mix of other Wheelwriter and other keys. The user notes that the big enter key can be installed regularly without having to remove the spring of the | \ key below the backspace (just disable the key in Vial).

This year I hope to resume the projects for the 3 additional keys (Big Enter, ISO Enter non-stepped, Code) and for the pad printed keys now that the backlog is wrapping up.

PC AT Big Enter.jpg

Imagine if you apologized for killing someone's project by announcing yours in their thread.

It would take you literally two minutes. It would improve perceptions of you a lot.

[Ellipse]

Update:

As requested, I am letting folks know that the gray USB-C cables are back in stock and are able to be ordered once more.

[Ellipse]

The same person who sent me the above photo has also posted a video detailing mods they were looking to do for their new F104.

They actually designed 3d printed feet for the keyboard after considering XT style flip out feet for the F104.

[Ellipse]

We have a terrific and helpful new Model F keyboard review that was just posted today.

This is a great video to help folks make a decision if they are considering various keyboards and why the Model F is so special and unique. It also explains the difference between QMK and Vial, and how powerful and easy to use the software customizations are for these Vial-powered Model F keyboards.

The review also discusses the pros and cons of the new Model F keyboards, and an analysis of the pricing and value compared to other offerings on the market.

The Silver Gray powdercoated classic style F62 keyboard was delivered to this user more than 2.5 years ago so you can also see how the paint has held up with little to no wear.

My video comment continues below:

You have a good way of explaining the different sounds that the keyboard makes, differentiating between the sound of the flipper contacting the large capacitive PCB when a key is pressed, the vibration of the spring after the key is released, and the less-desirable buzzing of a spring against the keycap, which can be quickly fixed as you mentioned.

Just a note - the F62 and F77 boards usually come with QMK but can be flashed to Vial, but you can now add an order note for me to flash the board to Vial for you, before it ships to you. No boards shipped with Via firmware, though it was offered for a short time as an alternative firmware. Flashing the keyboard to Vial allows everyone to adjust the keymapping and other settings without needing to reflash the firmware.

And so as not to scare anyone, the part of the video about pressing the f key as a shift is due to a custom mod of the keyboard, not the factory default behavior. The keyboard does not ship this way; the keyboard ships with normal keys without mods so that hitting the f key sends the f signal to the keyboard as with any other key.

[resonator]

I had the same thing as you resonator on the scratchy keys, especially on left ctrl, left tab and somewhat on caps lock. I found that just a drop of Teflon Dry lube on the outside of the stems helps immensely much like on Alps stems. I posted this in a comment on Chyrosran22's video. Ellipse mentioned in the comments there that he has had no reports of this and to follow the setup guide's steps to fix this. Nothing in there helped me resolve this though. No amount of burnishing, wiggling, bending, or breaking in made it any better. Like you said, it just got worse over time

Just wanted to share the dry lube tip since it helped me.

Thanks for sharing. I'll keep it in mind if it happens again...

It's happened again. When I replaced the barrels a couple of weeks ago, I also swapped a nicely working backspace cap (key above enter), for a new one with a different legend. I noticed today that it's become scratchy. I tried the wiggle method but it didn't help. Since I don't have any teflon dry lube handy, I've swapped back to the old cap and all of the scratchiness is gone. I'll get some lube in the next few days and test out your recommendation.

The barrels I swapped out were for tab, ctrl (caps lock position), f and e. None of those keys have degraded since replacing the barrels.

[mbarszcz]

Bummer, not surprised though. I have had good luck with the dry lube on mine. A few tips:
- It only take a drop. Give the bottle a shake first and then put a drop on the outside of the key stem and move the stem around to distribute it evenly. You will be surprised how much is on there.

- Don't put any in the barrels, you'll make a mess.

- Let it dry completely

- Once it's dry, use a cotton swab to remove any dry lube that worked it's way to the inside of the stem where the spring goes. It doesn't need to be here and it wipes off easily

- Don't touch the stem, you'll wipe it off.

- Install the stem and test.