Another single-switch circuit board

kiltannen

02 Nov 2020, 22:26

Pluna wrote:
15 Aug 2020, 11:33
I have used the Amoeba King PCB to create a dactyl manuform with SK6812MINI-E on every switch.
Any chance you could share some pics?

ping

04 Nov 2020, 17:59

Sorry for the dumb question, I've been following this thread for a while now as a lurker. I wanted to order some of these and not sure which is the latest and greatest version?
Is it the one from mtl, jking or HID Tech?

https://github.com/mtl/keyboard-pcbs
https://github.com/JKing-B16/keyboard-pcbs
https://github.com/HID-Technologies/

and is king the best or royale?
Guess I'm just looking for most features/least problems.

Thanks in advance!

bstiq

09 Nov 2020, 12:06

ping wrote:
04 Nov 2020, 17:59
Sorry for the dumb question, I've been following this thread for a while now as a lurker. I wanted to order some of these and not sure which is the latest and greatest version?
Is it the one from mtl, jking or HID Tech?

https://github.com/mtl/keyboard-pcbs
https://github.com/JKing-B16/keyboard-pcbs
https://github.com/HID-Technologies/

and is king the best or royale?
Guess I'm just looking for most features/least problems.

Thanks in advance!
Hello ping,

I can't speak for the other links but here's my feedback on the HID Tech ones that I made.

The sole purpose of the 1u hotswap MX is to be easy to use - only two row connections, and two column connections.

I made them because I found the amoebas too "messy" if that makes sense.

I hope this helps.

ping

09 Nov 2020, 21:54

bstiq wrote:
09 Nov 2020, 12:06

Hello ping,

I can't speak for the other links but here's my feedback on the HID Tech ones that I made.

The sole purpose of the 1u hotswap MX is to be easy to use - only two row connections, and two column connections.

I made them because I found the amoebas too "messy" if that makes sense.

I hope this helps.

That was helpful, thank you for your response. :D

wildjoker

04 Dec 2020, 06:53

bstiq wrote:
23 Oct 2020, 15:04

You can find them on the Github: https://github.com/HID-Technologies/
There's the kicad files, the gerbers (in the release section), and some information there.

Cheers

Out of curiosity was the Kompacted-1u-Hotswap-MX PCB in the HID-Technologies repository created with a nightly build of KiCad? I have the newest KiCad (5.1.8-0-10_14) and everytime I try to open "plate.kicad_pcb" in that repository I get an error that my KiCad isn't new enough and I need at least version "6/14/2020" which looks an awful like a nightly build version number.

Do I need a nightly build version of KiCad to open this?

bstiq

04 Dec 2020, 19:06

wildjoker wrote:
04 Dec 2020, 06:53
bstiq wrote:
23 Oct 2020, 15:04

You can find them on the Github: https://github.com/HID-Technologies/
There's the kicad files, the gerbers (in the release section), and some information there.

Cheers

Out of curiosity was the Kompacted-1u-Hotswap-MX PCB in the HID-Technologies repository created with a nightly build of KiCad? I have the newest KiCad (5.1.8-0-10_14) and everytime I try to open "plate.kicad_pcb" in that repository I get an error that my KiCad isn't new enough and I need at least version "6/14/2020" which looks an awful like a nightly build version number.

Do I need a nightly build version of KiCad to open this?
Hi, that does seem to be the case indeed, oops !

Here's my version info:
Application: KiCad

Version: (5.99.0-3135-gbd23d003d), release build

Build Info:
Date: Sep 3 2020 09:03:30
wxWidgets: 3.0.5 (wchar_t,wx containers,compatible with 2.8)
Boost: 1.73.0
OCE: 6.9.1
Curl: 7.71.0
ngspice: 32
Compiler: GCC 10.2.0 with C++ ABI 1014
Regards,

joeykenoy

16 Dec 2020, 14:16

Hi,

I am new to customized keyboards. I found these switches via google search.

I am confused if I can use one of the amoeba pcbs for a build with rgb leds and NOT hotswappable.

Hope anybody can help me or can tell me other "mini pcbs" to use.

Thx in advance

bstiq

16 Dec 2020, 15:44

joeykenoy wrote:
16 Dec 2020, 14:16
Hi,

I am new to customized keyboards. I found these switches via google search.

I am confused if I can use one of the amoeba pcbs for a build with rgb leds and NOT hotswappable.

Hope anybody can help me or can tell me other "mini pcbs" to use.

Thx in advance
Hi,

First - idk if that kind of "advertisement" (I guess) is allowed, so anyone let me know and I'll be happy to modify/delete.

You can use rgb amoebas, then you will have to connect vcc, gnd, and Din/Dout to each amoeba.
It's totally doable, just takes an insane amount of time and cables. If you google it you can find people who did it.

Otherwise, if you're doing a Dactyl Manuform Mini, you can take a look at HIDTech (our) 's flexil PCBs, we have an option with per-key RGB and no hotswap. You get one big PCB instead of many small ones. Only 4x6 and no 2 bottom keys though. Also the thumb cluster is only compatible with the DM Mini. It's also available in the full Bastyl Kit.

Cheers,
bstiq

joeykenoy

17 Dec 2020, 10:37

Thx for the answer, I think I need a own post for my topic. :)

viewtopic.php?f=7&t=24995

joeykenoy

21 Dec 2020, 10:37

mtl wrote:
23 Feb 2020, 22:53
I've made some updates that hopefully improve the design. In this revision, redundant column pads were added to the top and bottom. (Thanks, Lolligagger!) Also, pins were added to support both left-to-right and right-to-left LED data flows across a row. This will allow for the LED to always be mounted in the same orientation, which will simplify assembly and should reduce the possibility for wiring errors. Finally, the pins for data-out on the top and data-in on the bottom were removed. This removes some flexibility but seemed to be the right compromise.


amoeba-royale-1.pngamoeba-royale-2.png


Dimensions are 18.8 mm wide by 18.3 mm high.

I hope to create a wiring diagram to show how these would be connected in a matrix.
I will use your version for my project.

Can you tell me which leds I have to order?

https://keycapsss.com/keyboard-parts/pa ... gb-led?c=6
https://keycapsss.com/keyboard-parts/pa ... md-led?c=6

They have both the same name and I really dont know which fits.

Thx in advance

cheater

23 Dec 2020, 10:27

if I may make a suggestion, the pcbs are great, but it might make sense to make the column and row connection pads larger, so that you can solder to them without putting the wire through the hole.

wildjoker

30 Dec 2020, 04:57

joeykenoy wrote:
21 Dec 2020, 10:37

Can you tell me which leds I have to order?

https://keycapsss.com/keyboard-parts/pa ... gb-led?c=6
https://keycapsss.com/keyboard-parts/pa ... md-led?c=6

They have both the same name and I really dont know which fits.

Thx in advance
The ones you want are the SK6812 Mini 3535 (https://keycapsss.com/keyboard-parts/pa ... gb-led?c=6). If you take a look at the pinout on that website it matches the pinout on the amoeba-royale PCB (rotate the pinout on the website by 180°)
Screen Shot 2020-12-29 at 9.49.56 PM.png
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Screen Shot 2020-12-29 at 9.49.47 PM.png
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If you take a look at the pinout of the mini-e ones the pinout doesn't match.

Saying that though I ordered some SK6812 Mini 3535 and they fall straight through the hole on the royale. So either JLCPCB didn't drill the holes accurately or the LEDs I bought are on the small side.

ping

25 Feb 2021, 19:48

cheater wrote:
23 Dec 2020, 10:27
if I may make a suggestion, the pcbs are great, but it might make sense to make the column and row connection pads larger, so that you can solder to them without putting the wire through the hole.
I think they said that space was limited seeing as how there's a lot of stuff in a small single-switch pcb.
I feel you though, and I made a wiring jig that you can 3d-print.
I'm printing another one right now to test the print quality required.
Basically you just wrap an unshielded solid-core wire around the jig and cut down the middle with some flush cutters. It's basically the right size to just take the Half-square shaped wire and drop it into the holes. Will upload an STL here or thingiverse once it's done printing.
Here's a sample though to get an idea of what it looks like:
Capture.PNG
Capture.PNG (257.47 KiB) Viewed 2170 times

ping

25 Feb 2021, 20:32

It's not perfect, but it does speed up the process quite a bit (in my opinion).

Here are some images of me using the jig:
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Amoeba_wiring_jig.zip
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feel free to use/modify/sell or whatever you want with that STL. Took me 10 mins in tinkercad.

evanh

29 Mar 2021, 09:37

ping wrote:
25 Feb 2021, 20:32
It's not perfect, but it does speed up the process quite a bit (in my opinion).

Here are some images of me using the jig:
Thanks for posting this! I've narrowed down to either the Royale or King and will likely need this for my dactyl build.

Two quick questions, since I see you had the King v1.1 produced.
1. Did you order from JLCPCB? If so what options do I need to select after uploading the gerber zip?

2. Did you do anything with LEDs? Sounds like the Royale isn't ideal for them given the size of the hole, but I'd like to try incorporating them if they'll work on the King.

Cheers!

maggie696

12 Apr 2021, 15:25

Sorry for digging up this thread, I was looking into the Amoeba Royale and really like this design over the one sold on Keeb.io. I had a few questions I was wondering if you guys might be able to help with :

1: I didn't see a resistor port on the wiring schematic of the Royale. Is this correct or did i just overlook it? If i need a resistor do i need to provide one on each board, or one on my controller?
2 I'm looking to use a Elite C for this, (as i would like to possibly like to add a track ball later) is the 5V from the boards enough to power the full LED matrix or will i need to provide a secondary source (I'm assuming yes, since the LEDS don't really pull to much power but its been a while since i built a keeb with RGB)?

Amazing product and really looking forward to using these in my project. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

SargoDarya

16 Apr 2021, 10:07

Hey folks,

I'm going for a Dactyl CC build and have a few questions regarding the Amoeba Royale.

1. I think I might've ordered the Royale in the wrong thickness (1.6mm). Is there a recommended thickness for this? (reason follows)
2. From what I gathered the SK6812 3535 are correct, however, they fall slightly through the hole (1.07mm in height). Is this related to Point 1?
3. Does someone have a hint on how to solder across the gap from LED to Amoeba Royale? Do you use wire or bridge that gap somehow?
4. Is there a photo for a full amoeba royale wiring with LEDs?

Thanks in advance!

maggie696

26 Apr 2021, 02:27

SargoDarya wrote:
16 Apr 2021, 10:07
Hey folks,

I'm going for a Dactyl CC build and have a few questions regarding the Amoeba Royale.

1. I think I might've ordered the Royale in the wrong thickness (1.6mm). Is there a recommended thickness for this? (reason follows)
2. From what I gathered the SK6812 3535 are correct, however, they fall slightly through the hole (1.07mm in height). Is this related to Point 1?
3. Does someone have a hint on how to solder across the gap from LED to Amoeba Royale? Do you use wire or bridge that gap somehow?
4. Is there a photo for a full amoeba royale wiring with LEDs?

Thanks in advance!
1. I ordered mine in that thickness as well, but haven't gotten them to review yet.
2. I believe so yes. Something to do with how they bore out the hole.
3. I haven't seen any direct solutions, besides holding the LED in place then bridging with solder (which is bound to fail at some point)
4. There should be basic input/output wiring schematic on the Git repo that shows the layout. If your looking for one of someone else using the Royale, I haven't found one that was detailed enough, a majority of people seem to use the original white with the Thru hold LED's over the Royale.

I'm still waiting on some response to my question on if the Royale requires the resistor or not, so hopefully i get something bqack on that soon.

wildjoker

19 May 2021, 22:44

maggie696 wrote:
26 Apr 2021, 02:27

I'm still waiting on some response to my question on if the Royale requires the resistor or not, so hopefully i get something bqack on that soon.
My understanding is you do not need a resistor with the SK6812 Mini 3535's.

The datasheet says: "The control circuit consists of a signal shaping amplification circuit, a built-in constant current circuit, and a high precision RC oscillator."

I think "a built-in constant current circuit" means it is built into the LED itself. I also remember reading somewhere that it didn't need a resistor but I can't find where I read that.
Last edited by wildjoker on 19 May 2021, 22:51, edited 1 time in total.

wildjoker

19 May 2021, 22:49

SargoDarya wrote:
16 Apr 2021, 10:07
Hey folks,

I'm going for a Dactyl CC build and have a few questions regarding the Amoeba Royale.

1. I think I might've ordered the Royale in the wrong thickness (1.6mm). Is there a recommended thickness for this? (reason follows)
2. From what I gathered the SK6812 3535 are correct, however, they fall slightly through the hole (1.07mm in height). Is this related to Point 1?
3. Does someone have a hint on how to solder across the gap from LED to Amoeba Royale? Do you use wire or bridge that gap somehow?
4. Is there a photo for a full amoeba royale wiring with LEDs?

Thanks in advance!
2 and 3: My 3535s also fall through the hole and I am going to try to bridge the gap with wire or solder.

4: Earlier in the thread (page 2 or 3 maybe?) there is a wiring diagram, I have attached it here. The text associated with it is "Here is a wiring diagram, not showing the column data connections needed at the ends of each row"
amoeba-2.0-wiring-diagram.png
amoeba-2.0-wiring-diagram.png (181.76 KiB) Viewed 1347 times

ping

21 Jul 2021, 04:06

Oh gosh :o , sorry for the delay. I thought email notifications were enabled.

This is what I ordered from JLCPCB:
Screenshot_20210720-185145.jpg
Screenshot_20210720-185145.jpg (307.47 KiB) Viewed 725 times
Ordered 200 of these(reduced amount to stay in budget): https://m.aliexpress.com/item/4000475685852.html

500 of these:
https://a.aliexpress.com/_msnCAuR

Kailh hotswap sockets from kprepublic.

And I reached out to superami and they sent me this to help with wiring:
Screenshot_20210720-190531.jpg
Screenshot_20210720-190531.jpg (1.41 MiB) Viewed 725 times
If you have any other questions, I'll do my best to answer. (And to enable email notifications lol)

ping

21 Jul 2021, 04:19

Here's some more media:
IMG_20201215_102358.jpg
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IMG_20201212_021623.jpg
IMG_20201212_021623.jpg (1.46 MiB) Viewed 719 times
IMG_20201210_154920.jpg
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GIF/vid of LEDs in action:
http://imgur.com/gallery/wWluNvc

freznel10

25 Jul 2021, 12:41

ping wrote:
21 Jul 2021, 04:19
Here's some more media:
IMG_20201215_102358.jpgIMG_20201212_021623.jpgIMG_20201210_154920.jpg
GIF/vid of LEDs in action:
http://imgur.com/gallery/wWluNvc
Hi I was wondering how the jumpers work for the Amoeba King. Do you have a guide on it?

ping

25 Jul 2021, 16:49

freznel10 wrote:
25 Jul 2021, 12:41
ping wrote:
21 Jul 2021, 04:19
Here's some more media:
IMG_20201215_102358.jpgIMG_20201212_021623.jpgIMG_20201210_154920.jpg
GIF/vid of LEDs in action:
http://imgur.com/gallery/wWluNvc
Hi I was wondering how the jumpers work for the Amoeba King. Do you have a guide on it?
Hi, I don't have a guide other than the image superami provided.
IMG_20210720_190349_692.jpg
IMG_20210720_190349_692.jpg (187.09 KiB) Viewed 624 times
Consider this to be a 2x3 ortholinear keyboard. Each of the colored lines connecting one pcb to the one right next to it is a jumper. At the end of the row, you'll see a column (on the right side) you'll see where all the black/red/green jumpers connect, but we have a pink wire connecting d2 to d2. That has to be done at the end of each row. All the other non-ending amoebas need the "C" column connected. This will feel familiar if you've ever done a hand-wired board without a PCB, each row and each column needs a wire connecting it all together, and then to the microcontroller.

Hope that helps. I'm not an expert, but if you have further questions, I'll do my best.

Good luck on your build.

ping

25 Jul 2021, 16:55

Oh you'll also see below the LED we have D1 D2 D0. That is directional, you'll see the top row is all middle&right while the bottom row is middle&left. All that needs to be done there is to put a small blob of solder in the direction of the row.

freznel10

27 Jul 2021, 14:42

ping wrote:
25 Jul 2021, 16:55
Oh you'll also see below the LED we have D1 D2 D0. That is directional, you'll see the top row is all middle&right while the bottom row is middle&left. All that needs to be done there is to put a small blob of solder in the direction of the row.
Thanks. What kind of wire did you use?

ping

27 Jul 2021, 16:37

freznel10 wrote:
27 Jul 2021, 14:42
ping wrote:
25 Jul 2021, 16:55
Oh you'll also see below the LED we have D1 D2 D0. That is directional, you'll see the top row is all middle&right while the bottom row is middle&left. All that needs to be done there is to put a small blob of solder in the direction of the row.
Thanks. What kind of wire did you use?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TX6BX47/

freznel10

27 Jul 2021, 17:08

Oh so you stripped the insulation? Then bent them using the wiring jig

ping

27 Jul 2021, 17:24

freznel10 wrote:
27 Jul 2021, 17:08
Oh so you stripped the insulation? Then bent them using the wiring jig
Yep, exactly. Those are the "jumpers". The jig just facilitates making them since you need so many.

Real_ET

01 Aug 2021, 23:55

What is the purpose of the solder-jumpers on the amoeba?

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