Posted: 25 Apr 2017, 05:30
Show me the full output...
It's kind of funny to imagine, way back in 1980-something, there was a meeting of IBM people and the consensus was that this beeper was a good idea. Maybe a subsequent meeting resulted in this particular BEEP being selected over BUZZT and THWOK.OldIsNew wrote: ↑- including the rather loud beeper!
Are you also using the TMK keyboard editor to get your .hex file?It does seem to randomly drop some letters at times - still beeps but no screen output for C once then D then Z and Y - and require a reboot of the Teensy ...
__red__ wrote: ↑Show me the full output...
Not even sure where to begin with that.__red__ wrote: ↑umm, internal compiler error? That's special. That's a problem with your build environment
Hmmm ... worth a shot ... ... I'm not sure what that means. Or exactly how this process is supposed to go.SaltyMcSushi wrote: ↑Do you have the wrong make file for a Pingmaster layout? Try "Makefile.unimap.alps.rev1" instead of "Makefile.rev1".
I can't reach that file from my corporate network (which is where I am now) but as long as it's valid - no problem. It will be later this evening...Can I ask for a favor? Build a .hex file on your machine based on this for me to use to see if the issues do indeed disappear. If they do, then there's a problem with the TMK editor website; if they don't, then the problem is on either my machine or keyboard.
Yup, you can find the details here: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=14618.0Wingklip wrote: ↑Does hasu's stuff work with PS2 boards like soarer's does?
I've been using a USB extension. After two hours of use plugged directly into the computer, I haven't had any responsiveness issues.But, if the keyboard has a very long cable (3m+), I recommend adding two pull-up resistors of 1Kohm - one between Clock and +5V, the other between Data and +5V. These can really help to clean up a dirty signal (see here).
Wait are you using TMK or Soarers for this? Me and my friends have been having issues getting ours to work as welljust_add_coffee wrote: ↑If you're using the TMK Editor, it looks like Hasu has fixed just about all of the issues. I'm still experiencing the board occasionally not being immediately responsive upon switching to a new active window.
(I don't know if that's the best explanation I can muster, but better alternatives would be much wordier.)
Is anyone else experiencing this with the Pingmaster using the TMK Editor?
_Red_ ... I'm still interested in trying the .hex file. I didn't want to bug you about it, but I haven't forgotten either.
Edit:
In the Soarer's Converters docs, I came across this ...I've been using a USB extension. After two hours of use plugged directly into the computer, I haven't had any responsiveness issues.But, if the keyboard has a very long cable (3m+), I recommend adding two pull-up resistors of 1Kohm - one between Clock and +5V, the other between Data and +5V. These can really help to clean up a dirty signal (see here).
Off to purchase some 1Kohm resistors to try this!
TMK. I've been using the TMK Editor to generate the .hex, dragging and dropping it into the Teensy Loader, and pushing the bootloader button on the Teensy. It works pretty well now, and hopefully will work perfectly after I put those resistors on!bolbi wrote: ↑ Wait are you using TMK or Soarers for this? Me and my friends have been having issues getting ours to work as well
So does the Soarers just not work?? I've seen plenty of other people use it but it isn't working for us. Could it be that it's because we have the Chinese version and not the Japanese version?just_add_coffee wrote: ↑TMK. I've been using the TMK Editor to generate the .hex, dragging and dropping it into the Teensy Loader, and pushing the bootloader button on the Teensy. It works pretty well now, and hopefully will work perfectly after I put those resistors on!bolbi wrote: ↑ Wait are you using TMK or Soarers for this? Me and my friends have been having issues getting ours to work as well
I have the Chinese version also. I don't think whether you're using the Japanese or Chinese version matters, but I also was unable to get the Soarer's to work. I attributed the issue to some sort of Windows funkiness.bolbi wrote: ↑ So does the Soarers just not work?? I've seen plenty of other people use it but it isn't working for us. Could it be that it's because we have the Chinese version and not the Japanese version?
I'm just wondering because of all the ones I see that work with Soarers they have been Japanese. I could be wrong but I have no clue. I also have to ask, did you pull the original microcontroller off and solder the teensy to the board?just_add_coffee wrote: ↑I have the Chinese version also. I don't think whether you're using the Japanese or Chinese version matters, but I also was unable to get the Soarer's to work. I attributed the issue to some sort of Windows funkiness.bolbi wrote: ↑ So does the Soarers just not work?? I've seen plenty of other people use it but it isn't working for us. Could it be that it's because we have the Chinese version and not the Japanese version?
And honestly, maybe I gave up too soon. My first "programmable" keyboard was a custom-built Ergodox in which key assignments are done graphically with the process I described. So maybe I'm guilty of not wanting to leave my comfort zone.
On my first two attempts ... yes, I did that. Being new to soldering/desoldering and an all-around idiot, I destroyed some traces getting the old controller out. But people have successfully replaced the original controller with either a Teensy2.0 or a Pro-Micro.bolbi wrote: ↑I also have to ask, did you pull the original microcontroller off and solder the teensy to the board?
okay I was just making sure because we have one working with a db9 adapter to ps2 and have that connected to the teensy using the basic clock, ground, data, and 5v pinout, but when we tried desoldering the original microcontroller and using the pinouts Soarer provided and checked to make sure all pads and traces were still good, it didn't work. I don't know why but the only ones we could find that were using Soarers are the Japanese and there are a good bit of them. I don't know if it's a coincidence or not but it seems like it isn't and we can't find any working Chinese ones using Soarers. Everyone we have seen with the Chinese layout has had issues with Soarers and had to switch to using TMK so I don't know I just wish there was a straightforward answer to thisjust_add_coffee wrote: ↑On my first two attempts ... yes, I did that. Being new to soldering/desoldering and an all-around idiot, I destroyed some traces getting the old controller out. But people have successfully replaced the original controller with either a Teensy2.0 or a Pro-Micro.bolbi wrote: ↑I also have to ask, did you pull the original microcontroller off and solder the teensy to the board?
The 3rd time, and the board I'm typing on right now, the Teensy2.0 is soldered to the original cable's connection like so ...
If we can ever get our hands on one of the Japanese boards I'll let you know otherwise I know just as much as you do. The lack of clear and concise info is what's been the most frustrating thing I just want to use it because the switches feel seriously insane. Also, do you know how to remap on TMK because we've only Soarer so we're not that surejust_add_coffee wrote: ↑The Japanese versions definitely seemed more popular and the Ebay seller has been out of that version for a while now.
If you do find an answer, please post it here and shout it from the rooftops because it was frustrating when I first set out to do this with lots and lots of contradictory info out there. These boards are amazing and the switches blow the doors off just about anything out there nowadays (as long as you don't want another keyset on them or a clicky switch).
But look at it like this: Experience ... learning from your mistakes. Wisdom ... learning from everyone else's mistakes.gazza341 wrote: ↑ok, so i've joined this party fashionably late,
If you can get the Soarer's Converter version to work, then no.I am thinking of mounting a teensy inside the board, so i may just connect with a mini usb cable - can anyone advise if there is a downside of this approach?
The speaker does indeed beep with each keystroke doing it my way (and with the volume knob on the back of the board turned up). The novelty wore off fairly quickly for me though. I don't think the speaker works using the controller removal method based on a discussion I had with someone. They had said that they ended up disconnecting the speaker because it would randomly chitter.Does the internal speaker still sound upon key presses or has this now been ironed out? also, was it ever discovered if the micro controller should be removed or left in place? - i am obvz going with the latter, but i too have seen other tuts advising of the removal.
I'm still learning, but here's how I set switching active panes ... ... It's under the "Code Edit" tab.Shean wrote: ↑I know that this is a little off topic but does anyone know how to add macros using the TMK converter because I can't figure it out.