deskthority

Ah, one more question. On the German keyboard there is a key with < and >.
How can I get this key?

wasabah wrote:Ah, one more question. On the German keyboard there is a key with < and >.
How can I get this key?

That should be either NUBS (non-US back slash) or NUHS (non-US hash). In MassDrop's Ergodox configurator its under Misc -> [nonUS_Backslash_Pipe or nonUS_Pound_Tilde].

Kurrk wrote:

wasabah wrote:Ah, one more question. On the German keyboard there is a key with < and >.
How can I get this key?

That should be either NUBS (non-US back slash) or NUHS (non-US hash). In MassDrop's Ergodox configurator its under Misc -> [nonUS_Backslash_Pipe or nonUS_Pound_Tilde].

nonUS_Backslash_Pipe was the correct one for me (Swedish), I'm pretty sure it's the same on most ISO keyboards, right?

I tweaked the plate in Litster's case design a little bit to work with 1-unit keys in the outermost columns. However, because of bugs in the PCB, you would need to mod them a bit.
Not tested, even a bit -- I may use completely different files for my own keyboard.

Apparently, the forum software here does not accept the files, so I uploaded them on Geekhack. Use on your own risk.

Has anyone tried to install Costar stabilizers into his/her ErgoDox?
The acrylic case plate #3, the one with the holes for the switches and slots for the Costar stabilizers, is a whopping 4.5 mm thick instead of the usual mounting plate thickness of 1.5 mm. I can fit in the Cherry switches even though they do not snap into their mounting holes. But the stabilizers: no way.

Unfortunately, there is a flaw in the stabilizer holes nearest to the alphabetic keys on each side so you can install only one stabilizer on each keyboard.
The people who have done so have cut off the clips of the bottom of their stabilizer mounts to make them fit. I know one poster on GH sort of worked it out ... but he had to cut off a part of the keycap to make it work.

By the way, stabilizers are not really necessary for the innermost thumb key, because of the way that the keys are struck lenghtwise using the thumbs. The Kinesis does not have stabilizer mounts on its thumb keys either, and it works fine.

I too don't understand why the plate was made so thick... It is not like the plate is load-bearing -- the purpose of a plate is mostly to keep the switches from twisting. The thickness also makes it necessary to use surface-mounted diodes.

Sunspots wrote:

Kurrk wrote:

wasabah wrote:Ah, one more question. On the German keyboard there is a key with < and >.
How can I get this key?

That should be either NUBS (non-US back slash) or NUHS (non-US hash). In MassDrop's Ergodox configurator its under Misc -> [nonUS_Backslash_Pipe or nonUS_Pound_Tilde].

nonUS_Backslash_Pipe was the correct one for me (Swedish), I'm pretty sure it's the same on most ISO keyboards, right?

Yup, that one worked for me. Thanks!

First time posting at Deskthority but have enjoyed your site for some time. My friends at geekhack suggested I share this with you. http://flic.kr/s/aHsjFazJhh

Welcome to DT!
Wow, that's great work, it looks very professional! You have to be sure about your personal optimal ErgoDox position before crafting a wooden shrine like that around it
BTW, that's a serious collection of tools. Pressurized air drill?... not the typical amateur stuff.

Oh my.

That's simply fantastic!

Amazing work Kurplop!
Now if you could make wooden cases for other keyboards too, I'm sure you would find interested buyers here!

Kurrk wrote:Welcome to DT!
Wow, that's great work, it looks very professional! You have to be sure about your personal optimal ErgoDox position before crafting a wooden shrine like that around it
BTW, that's a serious collection of tools. Pressurized air drill?... not the typical amateur stuff.

It's funny that you'd mention the air grinder. They are on sale at Harbor Freight now for $9.99, making it less expensive than a pack of sandpaper.

You're right about confirming the proper placement of everything before cutting. Woodworking is largely a process of subtraction and sometimes a bad design can't be salvaged. I took a risk on the center placement of the trackball knowing I probably wouldn't like it as much as the sloped right side version on my earlier trays. I was concerned that sloping the keyboard and trackball would lower the elevation of the ball beyond a practical range. Also, I knew a symmetrical design would look nicer and the ambidextrous nature of center mounting would be a plus.

After using it for a few weeks, I'm getting use to the center mount but will probably make a new design featuring a right side trackball with buttons in the center and at the ball, less acute tenting (from 17º to about 10º) and keyboard halves closer together. The present layout is very good for straight typing but when I work in CAD my right hand is on the ball most of the time and trackball comfort supersedes all else.

Thanks for your comments.

well, make sure we get to see the new one too dude. love your work

Does this keyboard have full NKRO over USB?

No. It's currently 6 keys + 8 modifiers. But it may in the future, not sure yet.

Kurplop wrote:First time posting at Deskthority but have enjoyed your site for some time. My friends at geekhack suggested I share this with you. http://flic.kr/s/aHsjFazJhh

That is absolutely fantastic!

I'm completely off regarding the ergodox project, but where one can order one?

Good question.

The second round at Massdrop just closed. You can click the request button on the right (after you sign up for the site) to be reminded when they do another run. Judging by the first cycle, they'll probably plan one once it gets up to ~300 requests. On the first run, there was someone offering assembly services; dunno about the second run, or about future plans.

There was talk a while ago about seeing if we could do a community organized run, but I haven't heard a thing about it for quite some time, so I consider it extremely unlikely.

Or you could build your own, something like this guy lol.

Or if you think it's worth it, I suppose you could also keep an eye on the Deskthority and Geekhack classifieds, in case any of the 1st or 2nd rounders got extras and end up selling stuff.

Regarding assembly i only have experience in soldering switches and pretty much nothing more. Ill check that link thanks.

maxrunner wrote:Regarding assembly i only have experience in soldering switches and pretty much nothing more. Ill check that link thanks.

You can use switches with diodes (for example from an old G80-1000) then you won't have to solder the tiny surface mounted ones

mintberryminuscrunch wrote:

maxrunner wrote:Regarding assembly i only have experience in soldering switches and pretty much nothing more. Ill check that link thanks.

You can use switches with diodes (for example from an old G80-1000) then you won't have to solder the tiny surface mounted ones

Just a note, apparently using in-switch diodes requires enabling a special parameter for that in the firmware, or at least opening the switches to reverse the diodes on one hand, as the PCB's diode pads for each hand have mirror-image polarity.

That said, I found soldering the SMD diodes a piece of cake, even though I hadn't really soldered anything to a PCB since high school shop class 25 years ago. The trick is to apply a dab of solder to one pad, then use the iron to melt that dab while sliding the diode onto it with tweezers; removing the iron will then tack the diode into place, so you can rather easily solder the other pad. It may have helped that I used a temp-controlled iron that came with a fine pencil tip (got it used on eBay for about what TheProfosist was charging for assembly services), with .022" 62/36/2% tin/lead/silver rosin-core solder that flows readily and is easy to apply in controlled amounts.

Yeah, i only have soldered alps switches on the pcb, nothing more to be honest, so mounting a full keyboard might be out of my league, i wonder if they have any solutions for assembly.

Assembly might be convenient... If you're worried that it's out of your league though, you probably shouldn't be... . The prototype I built was my first soldering project ever. My Dad watched and warned me when I was doing something wrong (and took care of soldering the tiny little USB connector; though, with a smaller iron that'd be easier... and I'm thinking of trying it myself on the next board I build in any case), but I did the rest myself. Not way too bad, if you have the time and patience to be pedantic and careful and a great learning experience. And as a bonus, I probably like my board more, having built it; and I'm less scared of hurting it, because hey... I can always fix it! Others (who were probably a little less pedantic, lol) have posted with various problems, usually cold solder joints. I don't know of any who haven't gotten their issues resolved though.

aye, most of my limited soldering experience has been guitar pickups and switches, which is mostly "wrap this bit of wire round that lug so it's got a good electrical connection and holds on pretty well. wap on some solder to keep it still" so surface mount diodes and teensys and whatnot are a whole different league. i didn't have anyone to help, but as Ben says, just go slow, check everything, and it'll all be fine. Everything went on perfectly and worked first time. i do recommend using a multimeter to check that your connections are sound before putting everything together, especially with stuff like the diodes, so you don't wonder why 1 or 2 keys don't work when you turn it on, that seems to be where many of the posted issues arose. i'd solder a few diodes then check that there was sound electrical coupling, and that it went in the right direction for them, then do a few more.

yeah, i might buy it anyway, but i see that in the that massdrop group buy they're using acrylic cases?, i was more interested in metal ones like the one's Kurplop made, i assume these have to be made somewhere though. Also anyone knows the acrylic model final price?

unless you're good with metalwork & have access to a good bunch of tools, you prolly don't want anything to do with the metal cases. they dropped em for round 2 because the quality control on em was so... shall we say "variable"? some people had to file down their pcbs to fit! and without some good finishing skills they aren't nearly as nice as kurplop's end results.

And I think I remember them saying that the quote they got for aluminum cases on the second run was about twice as high as the first, lol.

Massdrop was selling kits for $200 (+ shipping and import taxes, if outside the US), once their minimum number of orders was met; though price could vary if you wanted extra PCBs or something, or if you didn't want switches, etc.

If you wanted to make up your own, the design files are here (the case most everyone is using is the acrylic case by Litster). Also, if you (or anyone) really was going to go the the effort to have them custom cut, you should probably know that there was a little issue with the placement of the cutouts for the stabilizers on the 2x keys with that design. I've only heard a few people complain though, and they figured out workarounds (and everyone says that stabilizers aren't really necessary anyway...). You'll have to search the GH thread for details if you're curious, I forget if it was mentioned here.

ic07 wrote:No. It's currently 6 keys + 8 modifiers. But it may in the future, not sure yet.

How about full NKRO over PS/2?

PS2 is even less supported... lol. Our chip doesn't have hardware support for it, so we'd have to bit-bang the protocol over separate pins and tie those to the USB pins... non-trivial (and possibly messy) firmware extension, irritating hardware mod... :/