How to service an Apple Keyboard M0116

[lproven]

Hi. Been here a while, but first post. I hope I am in the right place.

I have some old Apple mechanical ADB keyboards, 2 spare Griffin iMate ADB-to-USB convertors, and (finally) the time and a spare Mac (2011 Mac mini, High Sierra) to try them. The results are discouraging.

I have an Apple Keyboard, M0116. It responds but a 3-4 keys wide diagonal band across the middle of the main alphabetical block does not respond. Roughly the first and last 3-4 keys in each row work.

I have a spare Apple Extended II (M3501) with similar symptoms.

(Fortunately I have a fully-working M3501 that I'm typing on now.)

I also have an Apple Extended with some sticky keys (especially the V key) due to a liquid spill.

Are there any disassembly guides anywhere I could use to help me strip these down and get them operational? I am scared of accidentally breaking off key cap stems trying to remove them -- this has already happened with the Esc key on my working AEKII.

[hellothere]

I'd recommend that you watch Chyros' series of videos on Alps restoration. Part 2, where he shows removing a key from an Apple keyboard, is at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RnvC80Vjuts.

FWIW, I've had a couple of Alps clone keyboards where all I had to do was just touch the key and the key stem broke off. Fortunately, there are lots of folks, both on this forum and on ebay, that'd be happy to sell you either a full set of key caps, or just a single key cap, from an Apple keyboard.

You might also want to try a different ADB to USB converter, just to see if it immediately makes a difference. I've only bought one, ever. It's called a "Drakware" and it's just plug-and-play. I think it was around $25.

As far as the liquid damage one, you might have to do a complete disassemble, clean the circuit board with 99% alcohol or some other PCB cleaner, then clean the key switches per Chyros' videos. I would also stop using that keyboard until repairs are made. You could make things worse.

[SneakyRobb]

Hi. Been here a while, but first post. I hope I am in the right place.

I have some old Apple mechanical ADB keyboards, 2 spare Griffin iMate ADB-to-USB convertors, and (finally) the time and a spare Mac (2011 Mac mini, High Sierra) to try them. The results are discouraging.

I have an Apple Keyboard, M0116. It responds but a 3-4 keys wide diagonal band across the middle of the main alphabetical block does not respond. Roughly the first and last 3-4 keys in each row work.

I have a spare Apple Extended II (M3501) with similar symptoms.

(Fortunately I have a fully-working M3501 that I'm typing on now.)

I also have an Apple Extended with some sticky keys (especially the V key) due to a liquid spill.

Are there any disassembly guides anywhere I could use to help me strip these down and get them operational? I am scared of accidentally breaking off key cap stems trying to remove them -- this has already happened with the Esc key on my working AEKII.

Hi,

If you are worried about the stem pulling up completely with the cap. I personally like to remove the case before removing caps. If you are worried about stem pull up like you described, its tedious but you could try removing the top housing with the cap.

I have been designing 2 tools for this but not tested yet. Once you remove the cap/stem/housing you can then attempt to press the cap out through the bottom of the stem.

I will try to finish the tools now. There is one side attack switch opener, then a bottom press to shot out the cap.

Not sure I would recommend this yet, and would trust people like chyros etc with better techniques until then.

Robb

[lproven]

No email notifications of replies, huh? Shame.

Thanks for the reply!

I'd recommend that you watch Chyros' series of videos on Alps restoration. Part 2, where he shows removing a key from an Apple keyboard, is at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RnvC80Vjuts.

OK, will do. I had a small argument with Chyrosan in his YT comments, where he talked about persuading someone to part out a fairly rare IBM machine just so he could get the keyboard. He did not care what happened to the rest of the machine, and I feel that is irresponsible.

But I will look -- thank you!

FWIW, I've had a couple of Alps clone keyboards where all I had to do was just touch the key and the key stem broke off.

Yes, I am afraid of that. I have managed to reattach one Apple key invisibly but it was fiddly.

I am not really a keyboard collector -- I just like old mechanical boards' feel and kept them from when they were relatively new and valueless.

Fortunately, there are lots of folks, both on this forum and on ebay, that'd be happy to sell you either a full set of key caps, or just a single key cap, from an Apple keyboard.

Probably not in Czechia, so postage would be prohibitive.

You might also want to try a different ADB to USB converter, just to see if it immediately makes a difference. I've only bought one, ever. It's called a "Drakware" and it's just plug-and-play. I think it was around $25.

I have 3, and they're typically €50-€75 over here. 3x the price you cite.

I experimentally sold an original Apple Extended and an Apple ADB before I left the UK and they sold for £3 each, so even these cheap convertors are 10x more expensive than the keyboards.

As far as the liquid damage one, you might have to do a complete disassemble, clean the circuit board with 99% alcohol or some other PCB cleaner, then clean the key switches per Chyros' videos. I would also stop using that keyboard until repairs are made. You could make things worse.

Oh dear. Well, that's what I was afraid of, but I am going to need detailed instructions from somewhere -- I have never tried anything like this before. I am a software guy, not a hardware engineer.

[lproven]

Show us some pictures of the keyboard condition, as detailed as you cane be.

The thing is, I think I will need disassembly instructions first...

Lot of time, the problem is that the solder joint is dried up (hey it has been 30 years for them dont judge) so reflow a joint can do wonder.

Oh dear. That sounds intimidating.

Other common causes are just dust in the switch in general. Alps keycaps are hard to pull off unlike mx. if they break, and if that is not due to your technique, then must be the keycap is super damaged and brittle. Dont worry much, if they are in such condition they are due to break at some point.

I am not in the states or even the same continent. Replacements would be an issue.

Anyways yeah get the caps off and open the switch and clean them. I recommend printing an alps opener (or pay someone to print it for ya, the 3d file is available on thingyverse) , make your life much easier.

I don't have a 3D printer but I have contacts in that industry -- I will look into that. Thanks, good tip.

[hellothere]

Oooh. Google has results. Here's a take-apart guide for an Apple Extended Keyboard II, M0312 and M3501.

I couldn't immediately find a guide for the M0116, but I saw a post that said that all it has are the four screws on the bottom case and that's it. No snaps or anything.

If this is your first time opening a keyboard, just take it slow and take pictures along your way to show where the parts are before you remove them.

Here's a link to buy the Alps switch opener tool. It's $6.49 US and sold by orihalcon, who is a member here. If you need to get details on the tool, I'd recommend contacting him through e-bay.

Of course, you could help us all out by just putting up the keyboards for sale or trade and giving a hefty discount to everyone who's posted in this thread .

[francesco]

Hi - curious if you were able to fix the issue. I have the exact same problem - my 1-Q-S-X-` keys don't work at all on my M0116. Everything else is perfect. The fact that it's a diagonal leads me to think that the issue is with the circuit and not the individual switches (else, why that pattern?). But I'm a certified amateur here so...

[lproven]

I have not done, as of yet, no. Sadly there are higher-priority tasks, and it seems that all the spares and tools can only be sourced from the USA, meaning that shipping costs 10× the price of the parts and takes ages -- if the company will ship internationally at all, which many will not. It is... not trivial.

[mode1ace]

I'd try reflowing the solder first, and if that doesn't work, desolder the switches, remove the switchplates and bathe them in isopropyl alcohol in a jar. Let them soak and shake the jar a bit periodically. Dry them out, put them back together and multimeter the switches before soldering them back on.

It's probably worth cleaning all the switch tops for improved feel too, get all the dust out with a fine brush. I don't like to ultrasonic switches if I don't have to, especially not the sliders as you lose the original lube.

[shallot]

Honestly, cleaning the PCB with isopropyl alcohol is really your first port of call. These old boards can be coated in some real funky old flux. A whole column or row not working implies there's probably something wrong around the controller.

[lproven]

Jeez. This is far beyond my skill level -- I am incompetent at soldering, for a start, and I do not want to practice on my precious old kit. I did not buy these keyboards; I saved them from being scrapped when they were no longer new.

The first step is cleaning is going to be that I will need a source for a key removal tool in Europe.

If simple cleaning is not enough, then I will need to find someone in Europe who can do this for me, for a fee...