Model F questions

khaine1711

05 Dec 2013, 18:18

Hi guys,

I plan to make a few changes to my Model F AT - mostly changing to a normal sized backspace and normal sized enter key. Still I need a few helps with finding the correct parts. Teensy also on the way but that's for another day.

I heard from Clickykeyboards that the small piece of plastic in large key (horizontal insert) is different in horizontal key and vertical key, is it the same with the Model F? Do the Model M horizontal insert fits with the Model F barrel? - if not where can I source several of them?.

Can I use Model M keycap on a Model F AT?

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Daemon Raccoon

05 Dec 2013, 18:26

The stabiliser inserts and keycaps will work just fine on the AT Model F.

khaine1711

05 Dec 2013, 20:27

That solves a lot of problem :D.

Also are there any advantages of "two-piece" keycap? My F have one piece keycap - could be placebo but the legend seems to be much more crisp compared to my old Model M.

Just wondering if anyone used Unicomp custom printed keycap before - or should I just stick with caps from Model M?

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nathanscribe

05 Dec 2013, 20:39

I had some Mac-style keys printed from Unicomp - they were less crisp than the originals, though I've also had variable quality original IBM caps too, both in terms of crispness and alignment. From what I remember, the snap-on caps I had on my Unicomp Spacesaver were fine.

warty

06 Dec 2013, 03:39

I've never detected a rule about the 1- vs 2- piece keys. For example, the 2 piece ones in my F 122 are quite blurry looking, compared to the 1 piece ones I use from a Wheelwriter, and also compared to others from a Model M. I don't have any unicomp keys to compare to though...

khaine1711

06 Dec 2013, 19:00

Hmm after a few days typing with my Model F. I think the large key with stabilizer feels slightly sticky. I've tried removing the stabilizer clip but it makes the key wobble - and sometimes the key get stuck. Are there any ways to make the large key feels "smoother"?

Also anyone knows where can I get extra barrels for the Model F - I want to add two keys next to the spacebar, and using the normal sized spacebar in the model M.

Lastly on the teensy stuff, I've order a teensy 2.0 board with pin. Can I connect the model F controller directly to the teensy board? - I think it's the 7 pin one on the right which is the AT cable. What would I do with the grounding wire (I think) on the original AT cable?

Image

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Game Theory
Mr. Despair

06 Dec 2013, 22:15

khaine1711 wrote:Also anyone knows where can I get extra barrels for the Model F - I want to add two keys next to the spacebar, and using the normal sized spacebar in the model M.
http://www.shapeways.com/shops/nfc

Though I'm sure someone has some to spare.

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bhtooefr

08 Dec 2013, 19:07

khaine1711 wrote:Hmm after a few days typing with my Model F. I think the large key with stabilizer feels slightly sticky. I've tried removing the stabilizer clip but it makes the key wobble - and sometimes the key get stuck. Are there any ways to make the large key feels "smoother"?
Retrofit the key and stabilizer inserts from a Model M. The large vertical wire stabilized keys are pretty crap on the Model F.

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wcass

13 Dec 2013, 08:21

if you are adding keys left and right of your space bar, you might want to read about how other people did it. a good recent post on it is at GH here:
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=48288.0

it does involve changing the space bar (and stabilizer) for that of a Model M.

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Compgeke

13 Dec 2013, 09:35

AT cable is the one on the left, it's a 5-pin DIN cable on the other end.

You can also confirm this by just looking to see where the wire goes, as the cable just runs right through the case.

khaine1711

13 Dec 2013, 17:15

wcass wrote:if you are adding keys left and right of your space bar, you might want to read about how other people did it. a good recent post on it is at GH here:
http://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=48288.0

it does involve changing the space bar (and stabilizer) for that of a Model M.
I did read that post quite carefully. The main obstacle right now is I don't know how to drill/make a half circle onto the plate. My knowledge of power tools is pretty much zero :D.
AT cable is the one on the left, it's a 5-pin DIN cable on the other end.

You can also confirm this by just looking to see where the wire goes, as the cable just runs right through the case.
What I meant to ask was: originally the Model F is like this

Controller board -> AT DIN Cable (through 5 pin wire)

Can I change it so that the Controller is directly plugged into the Teensy board -> micro usb cable? Or do I still need the original AT Cable and build a converter box?

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Compgeke

13 Dec 2013, 17:26

You can wire the controller board directly to a teensy without the original cable, although it will be easier to cut a couple inches off the inside part of the cable and strip that to attach the Teensy to the controller.

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Soarer

13 Dec 2013, 18:20

You can use female-to-female jumper wires to connect onto the internal connector, and then either simply plug the other end onto a Teensy with pins, or cut the wire and solder.

The yellow wires go to the LED board, don't they? The 6 position connector with 5 wires looks like the cable connector.

I used a round file to make the cutout, something like this. It doesn't say how wide that one is... you want it a bit smaller than the diameter of a barrel.

khaine1711

13 Dec 2013, 20:01

The Round file is the thing that you rub at metal until it gives you the smoothness you wanted right? I think I've seen it being used a few times, but mostly to smoothen surfaces, not making new ones :o

How long did it take you to make the cutout?

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Soarer

13 Dec 2013, 20:04

It's a file, that is round :lol: Not long, since it's only plate. It's good to go slowly, because you don't want to cut too far!

I think mine was a coarser grade than that one, but if anything, it cut too quickly.

khaine1711

13 Dec 2013, 20:33

Did you need a clamp or just let the plate rest in your leg/thigh then ... rub away? :))

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Soarer

13 Dec 2013, 21:20

To be honest it's been a while. I think I just held it tight in my hand and worked away at it with long strokes.

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wcass

13 Dec 2013, 21:26

Soarer wrote:To be honest it's been a while. I think I just held it tight in my hand and worked away at it with long strokes.
OK, that just sounds so dirty.

khaine1711

13 Dec 2013, 21:48

I love you guys :D

Also one more thing. Which foam(s) did you guys use to replace the Model F stock foam? Links would be much appreciated.

How can one align the hole for the Model F AT (and possibly the F122)? I read from another mod thread that he uses the old foam, then spray paint over the new one. I'm kinda scared at the process since if anything goes wrong I'd be without foam :!:

Wcass I think I emailed you and get a file for the Model F AT but the holes seems to stops somewhere near the modifier and does not extend to the Numpad/F1-F10. Are there files for the whole board (and possibly the F122 as well)?

What to use to make holes on it also. I read on a thread named Harry F122 bolt mod that he uses a "leather punch" but then when I google leather punch, some strange contraption that looks nothing like his appear on the result page :?

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Game Theory
Mr. Despair

13 Dec 2013, 23:48

khaine1711 wrote:I love you guys :D

Also one more thing. Which foam(s) did you guys use to replace the Model F stock foam? Links would be much appreciated.

How can one align the hole for the Model F AT (and possibly the F122)? I read from another mod thread that he uses the old foam, then spray paint over the new one. I'm kinda scared at the process since if anything goes wrong I'd be without foam

<snip>

What to use to make holes on it also. I read on a thread named Harry F122 bolt mod that he uses a "leather punch" but then when I google leather punch, some strange contraption that looks nothing like his appear on the result page :?
I used a silicone sheet instead of foam.
I tape the silicone to the metal plate and spray painted the plate and thereby marking the holes. It was rusty before I de-rusted it with vinegar.
I used a leather punch set like this http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-6588-Heavy ... ther+punch
Note I haven't check it for the correct size!

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wcass

14 Dec 2013, 04:19

i used this: http://www.mcmaster.com/#8647k102/=pspxs9
to make holes, i use this: http://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece-ho ... -3838.html
foam1.JPG
foam1.JPG (125.47 KiB) Viewed 1130 times
i have an AT templates around here somewhere. I have not needed to do a 122 yet, but when i do, i will publish. i cut the material larger than the piece and then use double sided tape just outside of the pattern edge. after all the holes are punched use sharp scissors to cut the outline. A close-up of my work is below. scissors cut the left edge, dull razor knife cut the top edge.
foam2.JPG
foam2.JPG (140.98 KiB) Viewed 1130 times

khaine1711

14 Dec 2013, 10:04

The picture shown is for the Model F XT right? Since IIRC the F AT has kinda different looking foam with a small circle directly connected to the barrel

Image

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Game Theory
Mr. Despair

14 Dec 2013, 13:11

khaine1711 wrote:The picture shown is for the Model F XT right? Since IIRC the F AT has kinda different looking foam with a small circle directly connected to the barrel
Yes. I used a smaller circular punch for the smaller circle connected to the barrel.

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