Cherry G80 11800 Bricolage
- Madhias
- BS TORPE
- Location: Wien, Austria
- Main keyboard: HHKB
- Main mouse: Wacom tablet
- Favorite switch: Topre and Buckelings
- DT Pro Member: 0064
- Contact:
So i've "found" a Cherry / Compaq G80 11800 in our server room, not used anymore. I remember typing on this device before being keyboard addicted - but only a little bit when there was a real problem which could not be solved with remote connection. I don't really know what to do, but i love the bottom-out sound of these brown switches, and could use many of the Skidata keycaps on it, maybe make some weird switch combinations and playing with a Teensy.
I have not cleaned anything, and want to fix the board on a piece of wood. I've already cut two pieces today, one the full length, and one width without the ten-keys. I don't know yet, if i should make a TKL out of it! It looks very clean on the back, and just two arrow keys go through the ten-key numbers, but i would not really know what to do (but read the other TKL selfmade threads here).
I have not cleaned anything, and want to fix the board on a piece of wood. I've already cut two pieces today, one the full length, and one width without the ten-keys. I don't know yet, if i should make a TKL out of it! It looks very clean on the back, and just two arrow keys go through the ten-key numbers, but i would not really know what to do (but read the other TKL selfmade threads here).
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- Location: Stockholm, Sweden
- DT Pro Member: 0011
You can make it tenkeyless by cutting between the 741 and 852 columns on the numpad. No soldering would be required to keep the rest of the keyboard working.
On my Compaq MX-11800, I did that, and then I cut away some more and glued a new six-key cluster to the right of Return and Backspace, but that required some more wires and the resulting wire mess is not pretty.
On my Compaq MX-11800, I did that, and then I cut away some more and glued a new six-key cluster to the right of Return and Backspace, but that required some more wires and the resulting wire mess is not pretty.
- kint
- Location: northern Germany
- Main keyboard: g80-8200/ FK-2002
- Main mouse: genius netscroll optical gen1
- Favorite switch: MX clear/ Alps white comp
- DT Pro Member: -
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- Location: Stockholm, Sweden
- DT Pro Member: 0011
Rerouting the cable to the left looks like a good idea. My cable is quite a tight fit, being still on the right, out the original hole.kint wrote:click on the spoiler tags:
http://deskthority.net/marketplace-f11/ ... t2649.html
easy fix.
I had dissolved parts of the ABS case in acetone to use as putty, but it did not turn out as seamless as I thought it would.
- Madhias
- BS TORPE
- Location: Wien, Austria
- Main keyboard: HHKB
- Main mouse: Wacom tablet
- Favorite switch: Topre and Buckelings
- DT Pro Member: 0064
- Contact:
I didn't see this thread before, thanks for the link. A fine mod you made back then! Noone bought it? I will also cut away the number block, and have to do this jumper wire job.kint wrote:click on the spoiler tags:
http://deskthority.net/marketplace-f11/ ... t2649.html
easy fix.
Thanks!Findecanor wrote:You can make it tenkeyless by cutting between the 741 and 852 columns on the numpad. No soldering would be required to keep the rest of the keyboard working.
- kint
- Location: northern Germany
- Main keyboard: g80-8200/ FK-2002
- Main mouse: genius netscroll optical gen1
- Favorite switch: MX clear/ Alps white comp
- DT Pro Member: -
I did cut through the middle of 741 as you can see. Regarding Findecanors post, I can't remember whether it would have worked without the jumper wires, if I had cut beneath 741. In my case the case modification layed the cut line onto the PCB. As PCB revisions may have a different tracing anyway the talk about that is rather pointless. I sold it some days after that as someone found the thread, iirc for 20€.
- Madhias
- BS TORPE
- Location: Wien, Austria
- Main keyboard: HHKB
- Main mouse: Wacom tablet
- Favorite switch: Topre and Buckelings
- DT Pro Member: 0064
- Contact:
Yay, it works! I cut trough the middle of 741, and used a Teensy.
- CeeSA
- Location: Westerwald, Germany
- Main keyboard: Deck 82 modded
- Main mouse: MM711
- Favorite switch: Cherry MX Blue
- DT Pro Member: 0016
- Contact:
I wonder... for what is the teensy?
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- Location: Belgium, land of Liberty Wafles and Freedom Fries
- Main keyboard: G80-3K with Clears
- Favorite switch: Capacitative BS
- DT Pro Member: 0049
Custom key layout (the keyboard has no win keys), macros, USB support, or maybe even to make the keyboard smaller by cutting off the top row (where the controller is connected) and hooking in a Teensy as new controller?
Lots of reasons.
Lots of reasons.
- kint
- Location: northern Germany
- Main keyboard: g80-8200/ FK-2002
- Main mouse: genius netscroll optical gen1
- Favorite switch: MX clear/ Alps white comp
- DT Pro Member: -
as for now I guess it's for simple USB conversion... nice job. Did you have to jumper wire, or did it just fit because you left 741 intact?
- Madhias
- BS TORPE
- Location: Wien, Austria
- Main keyboard: HHKB
- Main mouse: Wacom tablet
- Favorite switch: Topre and Buckelings
- DT Pro Member: 0064
- Contact:
As a PS2 / USB Converter, for learning, just playing and try out, never soldered before (bought an iron, and stuff). I don't really have an idea what i will do next with this project.CeeSA wrote:I wonder... for what is the teensy?
I think it fits for now because i left the 741 intact.kint wrote:Did you have to jumper wire, or did it just fit because you left 741 intact?
- Madhias
- BS TORPE
- Location: Wien, Austria
- Main keyboard: HHKB
- Main mouse: Wacom tablet
- Favorite switch: Topre and Buckelings
- DT Pro Member: 0064
- Contact:
So that's what i've done so far. It's just a 'Skeleton' case for my G80-11800. I'm not finished yet, but i like it. Between the PCB and the wood there is a flexo printing plate cut out by a Kongsberg cutter.
- Madhias
- BS TORPE
- Location: Wien, Austria
- Main keyboard: HHKB
- Main mouse: Wacom tablet
- Favorite switch: Topre and Buckelings
- DT Pro Member: 0064
- Contact:
It's not to bad, fun to play around with switches, caps, will be a Frankenbord or something like this.
I used a piece of wood from IKEA, which i found in our kitchen, and bought now another one. Maybe i will not cut the wood as done before, and screw the PCB on the top to have about 6-7cm palm rest.
I used a piece of wood from IKEA, which i found in our kitchen, and bought now another one. Maybe i will not cut the wood as done before, and screw the PCB on the top to have about 6-7cm palm rest.
Spoiler:
- Icarium
- Location: Germany
- Main keyboard: These fields just
- Main mouse: opened my eyes
- Favorite switch: I need to bring stuff to work
- DT Pro Member: -
Does indeed look very cool. I wonder how it feels, after all they're just plate mounted and screwed to a piece of wood. Then again the original 11800 feels amazing imho. The browns feel so much better than in my Kinesis.
- Dubsgalore
- Location: USA
- Main keyboard: ESA-3000-HASRO
- Main mouse: Deathadder 2013
- Favorite switch: MX Blacks
- DT Pro Member: -
Very nice! you did a great job, looks really clean
Nice use of the OG Skidata set as well
Nice use of the OG Skidata set as well
- Madhias
- BS TORPE
- Location: Wien, Austria
- Main keyboard: HHKB
- Main mouse: Wacom tablet
- Favorite switch: Topre and Buckelings
- DT Pro Member: 0064
- Contact:
I put a polymere plate (normally used for flexo printing or stamps) between the wood and the PCB, with a thickness of 2,54 mm and a maybe 0.3-4 mm thick adhesive tape. That dampens a little bit, and feels 'normal' now i would say. I tried different thickness of the polymere plate, started with 1,14 mm which is to thin, and 5 or 6 mm plates, which are too soft.Icarium wrote:Does indeed look very cool. I wonder how it feels, after all they're just plate mounted and screwed to a piece of wood. Then again the original 11800 feels amazing imho. The browns feel so much better than in my Kinesis.
Spoiler:
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- Main keyboard: Compaq MX 11800
- Main mouse: Steelseries Sensei RAW
- Favorite switch: MX Blues
- DT Pro Member: -
Any chance I could get the teensy firmware that you used? I'm thinking about doing something similar with my board.
- Madhias
- BS TORPE
- Location: Wien, Austria
- Main keyboard: HHKB
- Main mouse: Wacom tablet
- Favorite switch: Topre and Buckelings
- DT Pro Member: 0064
- Contact:
Simple as that: http://deskthority.net/workshop-f7/xt-a ... t2510.html
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- Main keyboard: Compaq MX 11800
- Main mouse: Steelseries Sensei RAW
- Favorite switch: MX Blues
- DT Pro Member: -
thanks man!