Help!!~ Broken KUL ES-87 Wire Housing

bmilcs

10 Feb 2016, 21:50

Hey folks,

Brand new to the forum, soldering, mechanical keyboard modification and so on. I purchased all the materials required to perform an ergo-clear mod on my KUL ES-87 and before getting to any actual work, I cracked the main end of this wire within my case.

I cannot plug them in manually because they simply won't stay. I want to replace it because soldering it seems really iffy for my skill level.

Where can I find the matching end to this piece? I've been told that this link contains the proper item, but I want to be sure. The dimensions and shape of it don't seem right, within the data sheet and 3d model.

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDet ... OAvw%3d%3d

I am in desperate need of help. This is my sole mechanical keyboard and I've beens tuck on a rubber dome for a few days now. It is KILLING ME.



Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image
Image

Image

Image



THIS IS WHAT THE FIXED END SHOULD LOOK LIKE:


Image

Image

bmilcs

10 Feb 2016, 21:56

I would love to be able to replace the entire wire if possible. I have e-mailed KUL, posted on reddit, and other forums. Some say it is the right piece but I don't know.

User avatar
chzel

10 Feb 2016, 22:10

I think that's the correct part, but not 100% sure.
BTW in the first pic, the remaining half of the connector is still in there, so you want to remove that (it's the whiter of the two plastics)

profanu429

11 Feb 2016, 02:21

I believe you'll want http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Mol ... hsWA%3d%3d

That is the 5 circuit one; the one you linked is a 4 circuit one so it'd only take 4 of the pins you've got, leaving a poor lonely pin :( You might need to bend the retaining clips on the crimped connectors out some so it can lock into the Molex connector.

Alternatively you can buy some female pins -> http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Mol ... 54cENGw%3d should be the correct ones. You can either crimp them with a pair of manual crimpers from RadioShack, etc or a proper crimper (expensive!) at http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Mol ... bT4w%3d%3d.

That should hopefully fix it up.

bmilcs

11 Feb 2016, 23:56

Profanu, I am very forunate! A few hours after posting here, a member of the KUL team got back to me and I now have a replacement wire on the way!

Also, my second mechanical arrived today... A Pok3r w/ MX blues. Man, these are light keys. Without even trying, I am bottoming out like crazy. If my KUL re-soldering goes well and I don't have any problems, I will definitely upgrade these blues to some stiffer springs.

Can you find stock MX Clear springs anywhere??? The kind with 65g actuation and 100g bottom out force? Maybe something similar? that would be ideal!

User avatar
TuxKey
LLAP

12 Feb 2016, 11:13

Wow that sounds scary..Cant imagine being in the same boat..
Good to hear that KUL reached and provided a new cable..
I can't say i had the same experience with them :roll:
In fact i sold my new KUL ES-87 with mx-clears because i was so disappointed the the level of service i got from them.

Lots of good came out of that horror story..my first Topre Board..FC660C ..and when i get the time i'l start planning for my silence mod for both my FC660C and FC660M with mx-clears..

i was surprised to read how expensive a simple crimping tool costs.. i would just go in to a repair store and ask nicely "can you please crimp this pretty please for $5 hahahaa"

Or perhaps grab a china model for one job..
http://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?cat ... crimp+tool

but i guess all of that is no longer an issue..
Until someone else brakes that nasty little plug..

Less us know how the ergo-clear mod works out..i never soldered myself so i'm curious to hear how your project goes..
Typing on my 45G topre i really feel like my Stock mx-clears could use a lighter spring..

But for now i'm in Topre heaven...
The mod wil have to wait until i have more time and courage to open both my boards...


btw i love the idea of a poker3 ever since i typed on the poker2 i thought about getting a poker3 with all that metal bottom case sweet !! only wish it had a dedicated arrow cluster.. :mrgreen:
Kind of like my FC660C/M hahaha..

berserkfan

12 Feb 2016, 16:45

bmilcs wrote: Profanu, I am very forunate! A few hours after posting here, a member of the KUL team got back to me and I now have a replacement wire on the way!

Also, my second mechanical arrived today... A Pok3r w/ MX blues. Man, these are light keys. Without even trying, I am bottoming out like crazy. If my KUL re-soldering goes well and I don't have any problems, I will definitely upgrade these blues to some stiffer springs.

Can you find stock MX Clear springs anywhere??? The kind with 65g actuation and 100g bottom out force? Maybe something similar? that would be ideal!

it's easy, lots of people do ergo clear mods and are happy to sell you their spare springs just post an ad.

I had over 1000 clear springs at one point myself, but don't know where they are now or I would sell you.

bmilcs

14 Feb 2016, 23:02

TuxKey wrote: Less us know how the ergo-clear mod works out..i never soldered myself so i'm curious to hear how your project goes..
Typing on my 45G topre i really feel like my Stock mx-clears could use a lighter spring..

But for now i'm in Topre heaven...
The mod wil have to wait until i have more time and courage to open both my boards...


btw i love the idea of a poker3 ever since i typed on the poker2 i thought about getting a poker3 with all that metal bottom case sweet !! only wish it had a dedicated arrow cluster.. :mrgreen:
Kind of like my FC660C/M hahaha..
The Poker 3 is definitely growing on me. You can easily toggle the bottom right right buttons to arrow keys... which I have right now :). All you do is hold space and right alt. It's fantastic.

MX Blues are growing on me as well!

Soldering is surprisingly easy. Just practice on an old computer board, radio or alarm clock. I desoldered all my switches pretty easily.

Now the question is... will all the keys work once I find my perfect spring and solder them back?

68g is way too heavy feeling at actuation IMO. Stock clears are easier to actuate. SO, I heard 78g springs are just like stock clears but easier to actuate. Roughly 20% less. So I excitedly await the arrival of those 24k SPRiT's.

bmilcs

14 Feb 2016, 23:04

bmilcs wrote: Profanu, I am very forunate! A few hours after posting here, a member of the KUL team got back to me and I now have a replacement wire on the way!

Also, my second mechanical arrived today... A Pok3r w/ MX blues. Man, these are light keys. Without even trying, I am bottoming out like crazy. If my KUL re-soldering goes well and I don't have any problems, I will definitely upgrade these blues to some stiffer springs.

Can you find stock MX Clear springs anywhere??? The kind with 65g actuation and 100g bottom out force? Maybe something similar? that would be ideal!
Silence mod. Do you mean a foam pad between the PCB and case? I want to do this as well.

Post Reply

Return to “Keyboards”