[Help Needed] Dell At102W problem

[coreinsane]

My Dell AT102W sometimes just freeze.
Over PC motherboard PS2 and over usb (with soarer's converter).
Sometimes it is fine for an entire day, sometimes it freeze after 1-2 hours.
After freeze, I have to disconnect and reconnect the soarers converter, and if I use it with motherboard PS2, I have to restart pc. What could be the problem? Is there something wrong with the keyboard controller? How can I identify the problem? Or is there some resistor or something on the pcb that might be broken?

Freeze: keyboard not react to anything, the num lock light keeps lighing, but if I press num lock, it don't do anything.

[cookie]

Sounds to me like a cold junction. I'd check the pcb for dull and brittle looking solder spots.
It could also be a lose connection, I'd check that too.

[coreinsane]

Sounds to me like a cold junction. I'd check the pcb for dull and brittle looking solder spots.
It could also be a lose connection, I'd check that too.

Thank you, will check that, If I can't find anything, I'll post pictures.

Also, S-D +space "roll over" not works, is it specific to my board, or is it a design flaw of dell? Is there a workaround for this?

[cookie]

I had the same board and It was totally fine with the whole WASD cluster and Space plus shift and control and whatnot. Everything you actually press while playing games.

The good thing is, if you can't fix the board, they are not too expensive.
I think I'd keep the switches and caps, even though black alps are disliked by many people.
It's never wrong to have some spare switches and caps.

[coreinsane]

I like the board, the switches are hit-and miss as I found it, but I changed the tactile leafs to my spare alps white click leafs and now the keyfeel is amazign for my taste, I own about 10-12 different boards and donors so its not a problem, and the "freeze" problem is partially fixed with my soarer converter and disconnect-reconnect usb, but what if it get worse.

About the S+D+Space problem, I noticed it in overwatch, when you press S+D to strafe back, and try to jump while doing that, the Space is not registered.
Someone mentioned it on head-fi.org:
( https://www.head-fi.org/f/threads/best- ... 068/page-6 )

Unless you're one of the lucky folks with an IBM Model F 122-key and one of those USB adapters designed by someone in the Geekhack community (can't remember his name) that allow full NKRO over USB somehow.

Other than that, it's tough to beat the Model M. Durable keycaps (they don't smooth out and lose their texture quickly even with the pounding I give my keyboards when typing), and the buckling spring feel can't be beat for someone who loves tactility.

Also, they're cheap! Visit your local thrift store or computer shop; they might just have one for a few dollars!

2KRO and lack of Win/Cmd/Meta are the only significant drawbacks, yet its 2KRO layout doesn't even bother me most of the time, unlike some boards where S-D-Space fails (*cough*Dell AT101W*cough*), among other common combos.

[Zed]

I don't have much to offer to help with your problem, but keep in mind that PS2 is not hot swappable. No matter what is going on, you will have to reboot your PC to get anything connected via PS2 to be recognized. Good luck!

[coreinsane]

I know that, thats why I use it with soarers converter via usb, I just tried it with ps2 to motherboard a couple of times to ensure it is not soarers converter related problem. After ps2freeze i had to reboot my pc.

[kuvisit]

Have you made any progress? My AT102W has the same problem and I'm this close to reflowing every solder joint on the board.

I know it's been a long time and I deserve the golden shovel award.

[coreinsane]

Hello, I did not have time to work with this keyboard, and I god some really nice Alps Blue keyboards, as well as a Model F XT and I restaurated them.
For my latest info regarding the AT102W, there could be a dried out electrolytic condenser that causes the freeze.
My plan is to change all the electrolytic condenser on the board, you should do it before you reflow every solder joint.

[coreinsane]

Please inform back with your progress as well

[kuvisit]

Thanks for the hint! I hope there aren't many different kinds of capacitors on this board... If only I could get my hands on schematics!

[abrahamstechnology]

Thanks for the hint! I hope there aren't many different kinds of capacitors on this board... If only I could get my hands on schematics!

There should be only one with the value written on it. Remember you can go up on the voltage rating but match the capacitance value with the old one.

[kuvisit]

Thanks for the hint! I hope there aren't many different kinds of capacitors on this board... If only I could get my hands on schematics!

There should be only one with the value written on it. Remember you can go up on the voltage rating but match the capacitance value with the old one.

I had a quick look at the board yesterday. From what I saw without desoldering the switches, removing the mounting plate and revealing the PCB. There are at least three different capacitors visible there, so I suppose I'm buying a truckload of capacitors soon Next week I'll desolder everything and check thoroughly (ಥ ͜ʖಥ). Just have to finish up cleaning all the switches on my AEKII...