Anyone ever repaired a beamspring keycap before?
- just_add_coffee
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: Model F AT, Batwing Ergodox
- Main mouse: Microsoft Trackball Explorer 1.0
- Favorite switch: Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
I've got some ideas, but none of 'em are good ideas.
- DiodeHead
- Location: Spain
- Favorite switch: Gateron white
- DT Pro Member: -
green stuff, what modelers use to sculp miniatures and such, take somo old keys you dont want and break them, then try to reapear them with the green stuff, also i heard bondo is also a good option for this kind of repairs.
hope it helps
hope it helps
- Scottex
- Location: Spain, Madrid
- Main keyboard: Realforce 55g TKL
- Main mouse: Logitech G500
- Favorite switch: IBM Beam Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
sweet jesus that plate looks SICK
As DiodeHead said, the modeling crap used for warhammer miniatures should work
Also you could buy a cheap ibm typewritter and replace the stem with a dremmel and some glue
As DiodeHead said, the modeling crap used for warhammer miniatures should work
Also you could buy a cheap ibm typewritter and replace the stem with a dremmel and some glue
- just_add_coffee
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: Model F AT, Batwing Ergodox
- Main mouse: Microsoft Trackball Explorer 1.0
- Favorite switch: Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
I'm using green vinyl wrap for the plate there. But because the beamspring switches are so tall, once the case goes back on, it's almost impossible to see.
I've used Kato Polyclay before to make a replacement ear for a Model F leg and making a replacement for the missing keycap pieces is easy enough. It's strong stuff, but it's reliably securing it in position that I'm unsure about.
Maybe reinforcing the new piece with copious amounts epoxy behind it will suffice?
I've used Kato Polyclay before to make a replacement ear for a Model F leg and making a replacement for the missing keycap pieces is easy enough. It's strong stuff, but it's reliably securing it in position that I'm unsure about.
Maybe reinforcing the new piece with copious amounts epoxy behind it will suffice?
- MrDuul
- Location: ARIZONA
- Main keyboard: IBM Model F Unsaver
- Main mouse: Logitech G9x
- Favorite switch: Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
Green vinyl, nice good idea!!!just_add_coffee wrote: ↑I'm using green vinyl wrap for the plate there. But because the beamspring switches are so tall, once the case goes back on, it's almost impossible to see.
I've used Kato Polyclay before to make a replacement ear for a Model F leg and making a replacement for the missing keycap pieces is easy enough. It's strong stuff, but it's reliably securing it in position that I'm unsure about.
Maybe reinforcing the new piece with copious amounts epoxy behind it will suffice?
- just_add_coffee
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: Model F AT, Batwing Ergodox
- Main mouse: Microsoft Trackball Explorer 1.0
- Favorite switch: Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
Oh. Thanks!orihalcon wrote: ↑For the record, your spacebar is not broken. It is supposed to look like that on a displaywriter
I actually don't understand how this spacebar is supposed to work. The funky stabilizers didn't seem to exert any upward force and seemed otherwise unnecessary, so I left them off. That, and they were ugly, like that silly Caps Lock pusher-back-upper-rod.
- just_add_coffee
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: Model F AT, Batwing Ergodox
- Main mouse: Microsoft Trackball Explorer 1.0
- Favorite switch: Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
It's pretty easy also.MrDuul wrote: ↑ Green vinyl, nice good idea!!!
But what isn't easy: Vinyl wrapping the case. I couldn't get it to adhere to the inside corners of the keywell, and it would loosen and interfere with the corner keys.
I was really hoping that I could vinyl wrap the case since I can't exactly match the case color, and it would make it all pretty without the permanence of paint.
-
- Location: Des Moines / Cedar Falls, IA, USA
- Main keyboard: IBM Model F107
- DT Pro Member: 0190
They basically are there for stabilization and alignment purposes, so I think you'll need to add those back on. Making a video on how to remove and reinstall the Displaywriter spacebar is on my to do listjust_add_coffee wrote: ↑Oh. Thanks!orihalcon wrote: ↑For the record, your spacebar is not broken. It is supposed to look like that on a displaywriter
I actually don't understand how this spacebar is supposed to work. The funky stabilizers didn't seem to exert any upward force and seemed otherwise unnecessary, so I left them off. That, and they were ugly, like that silly Caps Lock pusher-back-upper-rod.
- just_add_coffee
- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: Model F AT, Batwing Ergodox
- Main mouse: Microsoft Trackball Explorer 1.0
- Favorite switch: Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: -
What a coincidence! Watching your video on removing and reinstalling the Displaywriter spacebar is on MY to do list.orihalcon wrote: ↑Making a video on how to remove and reinstall the Displaywriter spacebar is on my to do list