Hi! I want to do a Model M project with a broken M assembly and screw mod it. I will get some screws from the hardware store (Praktiker) and use a hand drill like this to drill the holes. But the videos I saw of this mod being done always involve drilling machine schenanigans. Can I just use something like this below with a small tip?
Model M Screw mod - can you just use a regular drill?
- j0d1
- Location: Montreal
- Main keyboard: IBM Model F107
- Main mouse: Logitech M570
- Favorite switch: Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0203
You can use a regular drill but it is recommended to also use a solder iron to prepare the holes to drill.
I followed those instructions.
The gist of it:
1. Buy M2 screws (2mm) with a length of 8mm.
2. Prepare the barrels plate by making tiny holes with the solder iron tip. This help a lot to drill the holes.
3. Drill holes with a drill bit below 2mm (I think I used a 1/16", which is 1.58 mm).
The keyboard I repaired was not in mint condition: the barrels plate was horizontally split in two pieces.
Nevertheless, I'm currently typing on it and it works perfectly!
I followed those instructions.
The gist of it:
1. Buy M2 screws (2mm) with a length of 8mm.
2. Prepare the barrels plate by making tiny holes with the solder iron tip. This help a lot to drill the holes.
3. Drill holes with a drill bit below 2mm (I think I used a 1/16", which is 1.58 mm).
The keyboard I repaired was not in mint condition: the barrels plate was horizontally split in two pieces.
Nevertheless, I'm currently typing on it and it works perfectly!
-
- Location: UK
- Main keyboard: Filco ZERO green alps, Model F 122 Terminal
- Main mouse: Ducky Secret / Roller Mouse Pro 1
- Favorite switch: MX Mount Topre / Model F Buckling
- DT Pro Member: 0167
If you gong to do that PLEASE don't use a decent soldering iron to melt plastic , and if you do make sure you clean the tip
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- Location: --
- Main keyboard: --
- Main mouse: --
- Favorite switch: --
- DT Pro Member: -
Thanks bro!!j0d1 wrote: ↑You can use a regular drill but it is recommended to also use a solder iron to prepare the holes to drill.
I followed those instructions.
The gist of it:
1. Buy M2 screws (2mm) with a length of 8mm.
2. Prepare the barrels plate by making tiny holes with the solder iron tip. This help a lot to drill the holes.
3. Drill holes with a drill bit below 2mm (I think I used a 1/16", which is 1.58 mm).
The keyboard I repaired was not in mint condition: the barrels plate was horizontally split in two pieces.
Nevertheless, I'm currently typing on it and it works perfectly!
I will not use my main soldering iron for it! I have a shitty one I can use.
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- Location: --
- Main keyboard: --
- Main mouse: --
- Favorite switch: --
- DT Pro Member: -
Will I have to buy the round things ( 2nd one from left to right)j0d1 wrote: ↑The gist of it:
1. Buy M2 screws (2mm) with a length of 8mm.
2. Prepare the barrels plate by making tiny holes with the solder iron tip. This help a lot to drill the holes.
3. Drill holes with a drill bit below 2mm (I think I used a 1/16", which is 1.58 mm).
- j0d1
- Location: Montreal
- Main keyboard: IBM Model F107
- Main mouse: Logitech M570
- Favorite switch: Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0203
That round thing is called a washer.
I forgot to mention that you must buy M2 screws with a flat head.
I personally bought those because they were 10$ shipped, but it takes a month to arrive and the quality is not that great (they do the job really, they just feel a little bit cheap).
That said, no washers are needed with those screws (they are like 0.5 mm away of needing them though!)
I forgot to mention that you must buy M2 screws with a flat head.
I personally bought those because they were 10$ shipped, but it takes a month to arrive and the quality is not that great (they do the job really, they just feel a little bit cheap).
That said, no washers are needed with those screws (they are like 0.5 mm away of needing them though!)
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- Location: --
- Main keyboard: --
- Main mouse: --
- Favorite switch: --
- DT Pro Member: -
I will make sure to order those from eBay as well!j0d1 wrote: ↑That round thing is called a washer.
I forgot to mention that you must buy M2 screws with a flat head.
I personally bought those because they were 10$ shipped, but it takes a month to arrive and the quality is not that great (they do the job really, they just feel a little bit cheap).
That said, no washers are needed with those screws (they are like 0.5 mm away of needing them though!)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/800pcs-M2-Cros ... 0005.m1851
- fohat
- Elder Messenger
- Location: Knoxville, Tennessee, USA
- Main keyboard: Model F 122-key terminal
- Main mouse: Microsoft Optical Mouse
- Favorite switch: Model F Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0158
I prefer using a Dremel-style tool because it is easy to hold with 2 hands and control precisely. Also it can be set to turn slowly.
Washers are helpful if/when you can get enough screw threads exposed to get them on.
Using the smallest spherical burr head on the Dremel for starter divots is much easier and more productive than melting them.
I prefer pan head screws to flat head, but that is no big deal.
Washers are helpful if/when you can get enough screw threads exposed to get them on.
Using the smallest spherical burr head on the Dremel for starter divots is much easier and more productive than melting them.
I prefer pan head screws to flat head, but that is no big deal.
- swampangel
- Location: Canada
- Main keyboard: Northgate Omnikey 101
- DT Pro Member: -
The ones I have, which were linked somewhere in viewtopic.php?f=7&t=9169, are 6.5mm long