Help adapting the NCR 4950
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- Location: United States
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I recently came into owning this keyboard in pretty great condition, and was hoping to find someone who had previously adapted it to USB before. Unfortunately after searching awhile I wasn't so lucky. If anyone has any knowledge on this board I'd greatly appreciate it. I'll be posting a picture of the pinout tomorrow morning.
- Blaise170
- ALPS キーボード
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There's no need to pin it out, it's standard AT protocol. All you need is a DIN-5 to PS/2 converter (and a PS/2 to USB converter if you can't use PS/2). Alternatively if you want to remap keys you can buy a pre-converted cable from Orihalcon that converts straight from DIN-5 to USB.
- mike52787
- Alps Aficionado
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no? pretty sure this board has a RJ12 jack and some alien protocol. I had one, but never tried to convert it.Blaise170 wrote: ↑There's no need to pin it out, it's standard AT protocol. All you need is a DIN-5 to PS/2 converter (and a PS/2 to USB converter if you can't use PS/2). Alternatively if you want to remap keys you can buy a pre-converted cable from Orihalcon that converts straight from DIN-5 to USB.
- Blaise170
- ALPS キーボード
- Location: Boston, MA
- Main keyboard: Cooler Master Quickfire Stealth
- Main mouse: Logitech G502
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Ooh I misunderstood the wiki. Looks like if you desolder the RJ-11 cable and replace it with a DIN-5 or PS/2 cable that it should work as long as it has AT switching on the board.
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- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: AEK II Mitsumi (rotating)
- Main mouse: G203
- Favorite switch: Orange Alps
- DT Pro Member: -
So just stripping a USB and soldering it to the respective pinouy should work?Blaise170 wrote: ↑Ooh I misunderstood the wiki. Looks like if you desolder the RJ-11 cable and replace it with a DIN-5 or PS/2 cable that it should work as long as it has AT switching on the board.
- mike52787
- Alps Aficionado
- Location: South-West Florida
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absolutely not.consideringquiet wrote: ↑So just stripping a USB and soldering it to the respective pinouy should work?Blaise170 wrote: ↑Ooh I misunderstood the wiki. Looks like if you desolder the RJ-11 cable and replace it with a DIN-5 or PS/2 cable that it should work as long as it has AT switching on the board.
- Blaise170
- ALPS キーボード
- Location: Boston, MA
- Main keyboard: Cooler Master Quickfire Stealth
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USB is not directly compatible with AT protocol. PS/2 is compatible with AT and there are plenty of PS/2 to USB converters on the market though (and again, only if it has XT/AT switching on the mainboard since it appears that these used two protocols depending on manufacturing date).
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- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: AEK II Mitsumi (rotating)
- Main mouse: G203
- Favorite switch: Orange Alps
- DT Pro Member: -
Oh okay, I wouldn't mind just using ps2 anyhowBlaise170 wrote: ↑USB is not directly compatible with AT protocol. PS/2 is compatible with AT and there are plenty of PS/2 to USB converters on the market though (and again, only if it has XT/AT switching on the mainboard since it appears that these used two protocols depending on manufacturing date).
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- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: AEK II Mitsumi (rotating)
- Main mouse: G203
- Favorite switch: Orange Alps
- DT Pro Member: -
So, how would I deciper what colored wires are what on PS2? I got my cable from a Dell Quietkey so I am not sure how standard that cable is in terms of colors and ground wires (the ground in this case is a screw in).Blaise170 wrote: ↑USB is not directly compatible with AT protocol. PS/2 is compatible with AT and there are plenty of PS/2 to USB converters on the market though (and again, only if it has XT/AT switching on the mainboard since it appears that these used two protocols depending on manufacturing date).
- Blaise170
- ALPS キーボード
- Location: Boston, MA
- Main keyboard: Cooler Master Quickfire Stealth
- Main mouse: Logitech G502
- Favorite switch: Alps SKCM Blue
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I'm not that good with wiring - you'd need to ask someone else. Were you able to verify whether this is ADDS or XT/AT protocol?
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- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: AEK II Mitsumi (rotating)
- Main mouse: G203
- Favorite switch: Orange Alps
- DT Pro Member: -
Well unfortunately no, I'm not entirely certain how to check that. Here's a photoBlaise170 wrote: ↑I'm not that good with wiring - you'd need to ask someone else. Were you able to verify whether this is ADDS or XT/AT protocol?
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- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: AEK II Mitsumi (rotating)
- Main mouse: G203
- Favorite switch: Orange Alps
- DT Pro Member: -
So I took some extra photos. The ps2 cable I wanted to use is from a Dell quietkey. I spoke to a redditor on this and he gave me a pinout. He said he knew how to adapt my particular version and would tell me for a price. Anywho, attached are some photos I took. I have a cu on the ps2 jerry rigged in at some point. Don't want to plug in random configs for fear of frying
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- IMG_20180713_1626562.jpg (3.98 MiB) Viewed 10036 times
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- snacksthecat
- ✶✶✶✶
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Seeing that voltage regulator makes me think maybe this isn't a 5V board. Do you have a multimeter to test?consideringquiet wrote: ↑So I took some extra photos. The ps2 cable I wanted to use is from a Dell quietkey. I spoke to a redditor on this and he gave me a pinout. He said he knew how to adapt my particular version and would tell me for a price. Anywho, attached are some photos I took. I have a cu on the ps2 jerry rigged in at some point. Don't want to plug in random configs for fear of frying
- snacksthecat
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By the way, this reminds me very much of another terminal board that I worked on a couple months back.
workshop-f7/link-alloy-cherry-g80-0693- ... 18643.html
workshop-f7/link-alloy-cherry-g80-0693- ... 18643.html
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- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: AEK II Mitsumi (rotating)
- Main mouse: G203
- Favorite switch: Orange Alps
- DT Pro Member: -
I do not :/snacksthecat wrote: ↑Seeing that voltage regulator makes me think maybe this isn't a 5V board. Do you have a multimeter to test?consideringquiet wrote: ↑So I took some extra photos. The ps2 cable I wanted to use is from a Dell quietkey. I spoke to a redditor on this and he gave me a pinout. He said he knew how to adapt my particular version and would tell me for a price. Anywho, attached are some photos I took. I have a cu on the ps2 jerry rigged in at some point. Don't want to plug in random configs for fear of frying
- snacksthecat
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I'm going to guess that it was built expecting 12V but also may work with 9V. If you share some pictures of the reverse side of the PCB (the one where you can see all the traces), someone should be able to confirm if that guy gave you the right pinout.
The first thing you want to figure out is which line is Gnd and Vcc
Then figure out what voltage it requires. Since you don't have a multimeter, one hint might be whether the lights come on when hooked up to 5V, or whether they stay dark (or some in between dim).
Then we need to figure out which are the signal line(s) (e.g. data/clock or serial)
Finally figure out what protocol it uses.
When you put it all together you get a nice little game plan.
For the record, I really do have a hunch that this board would work with my converter I made. Both boards were RJ-11, manufactured by NMB, and had similar voltage regulators.
The first thing you want to figure out is which line is Gnd and Vcc
Then figure out what voltage it requires. Since you don't have a multimeter, one hint might be whether the lights come on when hooked up to 5V, or whether they stay dark (or some in between dim).
Then we need to figure out which are the signal line(s) (e.g. data/clock or serial)
Finally figure out what protocol it uses.
When you put it all together you get a nice little game plan.
For the record, I really do have a hunch that this board would work with my converter I made. Both boards were RJ-11, manufactured by NMB, and had similar voltage regulators.
- TheInverseKey
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I have some information to add to this since the adds2020 is close adds1010 that I am currently working to reverse engineer. Here is the datasheet for the IC.
Datasheet: https://www.datasheets360.com/pdf/-6219928323035552889
Edit:
Opps frogot to mention the colors and what they mean on the original cable since they can vary from board to board.
Black: GND
Green: N/A
Red: N/A
Yellow: VCC
I will be working on this for the next couple of weeks hopefully.
Edit2:
Back of the adds1010 controller
Datasheet: https://www.datasheets360.com/pdf/-6219928323035552889
Edit:
Opps frogot to mention the colors and what they mean on the original cable since they can vary from board to board.
Black: GND
Green: N/A
Red: N/A
Yellow: VCC
I will be working on this for the next couple of weeks hopefully.
Edit2:
Back of the adds1010 controller
- TheInverseKey
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consideringquiet wrote: ↑So I took some extra photos. The ps2 cable I wanted to use is from a Dell quietkey. I spoke to a redditor on this and he gave me a pinout. He said he knew how to adapt my particular version and would tell me for a price. Anywho, attached are some photos I took. I have a cu on the ps2 jerry rigged in at some point. Don't want to plug in random configs for fear of frying
There should also be some parts of that board with some connections that are missing and have the following letter combo:
JUP
This is for the jumpers and I think last time I checked they were on the right side of the board on the front facing up. If you can post a picture of the whole top of the PCB then I can help you out more.
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- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: AEK II Mitsumi (rotating)
- Main mouse: G203
- Favorite switch: Orange Alps
- DT Pro Member: -
Heres some photos, sorry for iffy camera quality.TheInverseKey wrote: ↑consideringquiet wrote: ↑So I took some extra photos. The ps2 cable I wanted to use is from a Dell quietkey. I spoke to a redditor on this and he gave me a pinout. He said he knew how to adapt my particular version and would tell me for a price. Anywho, attached are some photos I took. I have a cu on the ps2 jerry rigged in at some point. Don't want to plug in random configs for fear of frying
There should also be some parts of that board with some connections that are missing and have the following letter combo:
JUP
This is for the jumpers and I think last time I checked they were on the right side of the board on the front facing up. If you can post a picture of the whole top of the PCB then I can help you out more.
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- TheInverseKey
- Location: Great White North
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Here is a photo of the jumpers that need to be added so that it can be converted. They are the ones that have been done in copper wire that doesn't have a silver plating on them.
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- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: AEK II Mitsumi (rotating)
- Main mouse: G203
- Favorite switch: Orange Alps
- DT Pro Member: -
So just clip the JA jumpers and solder those two JP jumpers together?TheInverseKey wrote: ↑Here is a photo of the jumpers that need to be added so that it can be converted. They are the ones that have been done in copper wire that doesn't have a silver plating on them.
- TheInverseKey
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Don't clip the the other jumpers and you should only solder the new ones on.
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- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: AEK II Mitsumi (rotating)
- Main mouse: G203
- Favorite switch: Orange Alps
- DT Pro Member: -
Oh so just leave the JA jumps? I'll make sure not to. Any tips on getting the wires to stay put while soldering? Just pray?TheInverseKey wrote: ↑Don't clip the the other jumpers and you should only solder the new ones on.
Last edited by consideringquiet on 15 Jul 2018, 18:48, edited 1 time in total.
- snacksthecat
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- Compgeke
- Location: Fairfield, California, USA
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There's a 7805 in the middle of those pics which is going to throw a wrench into easy PS/2 conversion. It's not going to work without at least 7V input, of which PS/2 only provides 5. Unless modifying the jumpers will bypass the voltage regulation section, you won't get any signs of life from the board on PS/2.consideringquiet wrote: ↑Heres some photos, sorry for iffy camera quality.
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- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: AEK II Mitsumi (rotating)
- Main mouse: G203
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From my understanding it enables the AT protocol on the board.
Seems like it. I wired up the board to a PS2 cable, I haven't done the jumpers yet. But whenever I plugged it in to see if I'd get any lights, I got zip. Of course, it could also be my awful solder job but I digress.Compgeke wrote: ↑There's a 7805 in the middle of those pics which is going to throw a wrench into easy PS/2 conversion. It's not going to work without at least 7V input, of which PS/2 only provides 5. Unless modifying the jumpers will bypass the voltage regulation section, you won't get any signs of life from the board on PS/2.consideringquiet wrote: ↑Heres some photos, sorry for iffy camera quality.
Heres the mess I made:
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- I know its awful. But I'm working with a chisel tip and no extra flux. It definitely sucked soldering this small bit together.
- IMG_20180715_1242222.jpg (175.67 KiB) Viewed 9907 times
- Compgeke
- Location: Fairfield, California, USA
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Quick tip on soldering: the chisel tip is fine (it's what I use), it's more on method. For joining the wires to pins with solder, I'd tin the wire lead, tin the pin lead then heat them together to reflow the joints into one. Same process one would use for something like soldering leads on LEDs.
When tinning the leads, apply heat from the bottom and solder from the top. This helps make sure the solder flows throughout and not just a blob on one side.
When tinning the leads, apply heat from the bottom and solder from the top. This helps make sure the solder flows throughout and not just a blob on one side.
- snacksthecat
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My novice advice would be to first get the power problem sorted out then move on to the protocol.consideringquiet wrote: ↑ From my understanding it enables the AT protocol on the board.
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- Location: United States
- Main keyboard: AEK II Mitsumi (rotating)
- Main mouse: G203
- Favorite switch: Orange Alps
- DT Pro Member: -
So tinning is preapplying solder right? Thanks for the advice though, I'll hopefully remember it next time I need itCompgeke wrote: ↑Quick tip on soldering: the chisel tip is fine (it's what I use), it's more on method. For joining the wires to pins with solder, I'd tin the wire lead, tin the pin lead then heat them together to reflow the joints into one. Same process one would use for something like soldering leads on LEDs.
When tinning the leads, apply heat from the bottom and solder from the top. This helps make sure the solder flows throughout and not just a blob on one side.
So I put all the jumpers in, and still, nada. I think I'll definitely have to figure out the power issue.
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- Location: United States
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- Main mouse: G203
- Favorite switch: Orange Alps
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All soldered in. Now I gotta figure out this power issue. The guy I spoke to over reddit didn't mention this to adapt but I'll try to contact him again.
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