I need to find a replacement keycap
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- Location: Canada
- Main keyboard: Focus FK-9000, heavily modded
- Main mouse: MX Master 3
Being the idiot I am, I broke off the stem of one of the control keys on a Lite-on SK-2002. This really sucks as I don't have *any* replacement doubleshot control keys, and the ones on my FK-9000 are a slightly lighter colour and are different keycaps. I was wondering if anyone has a replacement or knows where I can get one. All of my attempts to glue the stem back on have failed (epoxy, hot glue, super glue, etc; nothing works and by now the stem is long gone). Here are some pictures of the top and bottom of the other control key from the same board (identical, but not broken obv). I really hope someone can help me out here. Thanks!
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- IMG_20200112_141251.jpg (116.12 KiB) Viewed 1419 times
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- IMG_20200112_141258.jpg (127.46 KiB) Viewed 1419 times
- Polecat
- Location: Downstream from Silicon Valley
- Main keyboard: Monterey K104 Industrial Gray
- Main mouse: Logitech Optical
- Favorite switch: Early Alps SKCM
- DT Pro Member: -
We talked briefly about those caps a few months back, perhaps this will help:
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=10405&p=450478
Those keyboards were made by Silitek and were often rebranded. The photos I posted were from a Liteon-branded SK-0002, badged as Northgate. I also have a Silitek-branded SK-0002 with non-DS caps and Chinese sublegends, so be careful as not all of them had doubleshots.
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=10405&p=450478
Those keyboards were made by Silitek and were often rebranded. The photos I posted were from a Liteon-branded SK-0002, badged as Northgate. I also have a Silitek-branded SK-0002 with non-DS caps and Chinese sublegends, so be careful as not all of them had doubleshots.
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- Location: Canada
- Main keyboard: Focus FK-9000, heavily modded
- Main mouse: MX Master 3
If you have a matching keycap, would you be willing to sell it?Polecat wrote: ↑12 Jan 2020, 21:09We talked briefly about those caps a few months back, perhaps this will help:
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=10405&p=450478
Those keyboards were made by Silitek and were often rebranded. The photos I posted were from a Liteon-branded SK-0002, badged as Northgate. I also have a Silitek-branded SK-0002 with non-DS caps and Chinese sublegends, so be careful as not all of them had doubleshots.
- XMIT
- [ XMIT ]
- Location: Austin, TX area
- Main keyboard: XMIT Hall Effect
- Main mouse: CST L-Trac Trackball
- Favorite switch: XMIT 60g Tactile Hall Effect
- DT Pro Member: 0093
These are ABS key caps. With the correct surface preparation it's one of the most superglue-friendly plastics out there.
I would "pin" the parts together using, for example, some sections of paperclip, inside the hollow region of the Alps mount.
I've used these techniques to repair broken PBT keycap stems, perhaps you will have some luck.
I would "pin" the parts together using, for example, some sections of paperclip, inside the hollow region of the Alps mount.
I've used these techniques to repair broken PBT keycap stems, perhaps you will have some luck.
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- Location: Canada
- Main keyboard: Focus FK-9000, heavily modded
- Main mouse: MX Master 3
I threw out the stem long ago. I gave up after almost two days of trying to fix it.XMIT wrote: ↑12 Jan 2020, 21:35These are ABS key caps. With the correct surface preparation it's one of the most superglue-friendly plastics out there.
I would "pin" the parts together using, for example, some sections of paperclip, inside the hollow region of the Alps mount.
I've used these techniques to repair broken PBT keycap stems, perhaps you will have some luck.
- Polecat
- Location: Downstream from Silicon Valley
- Main keyboard: Monterey K104 Industrial Gray
- Main mouse: Logitech Optical
- Favorite switch: Early Alps SKCM
- DT Pro Member: -
Sorry, I just have the one with DS caps. It's yellowed but the switches are nice so it's a keeper.kelvinhall05 wrote: ↑12 Jan 2020, 21:17
If you have a matching keycap, would you be willing to sell it?
I've had good success repairing ABS with plumbing glue. But you have to be patient and wait two or three days for it to fully dry; that's the, uh, hard part.