Hi everyone, recently I managed to acquire an F-122 (for a decent price might I add), however, the original housing on it was unsurprisingly had been pretty dented up in transit, including a terrible crack that has created a split near the numpad area. So I found and bought an early M-122 case (one that has the model F compatible feet cut-outs) and while it does technically fit on the housing, I believe I still need to modify it somewhat to get it to stay together nicely.
Pre Travel
Post Travel with keycaps removed (thanks Fedex):
Anyway I was reading up on posts taking about being able to swap early model m top housing on model F-122's and was wondering if anyone here has actually done/tried this before and if its even plausible and if not what can I do to properly repair the current model f housing I have.
Imagie of the M replacement case I bought:
Source of claim of compatibility with early M cases on model F-122: https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=49313.0
Though they talk about the modifications but don't quite specify (or at least don't show pictures anyway), such as if I need to use different screws (either from the original model F or M screws included), etc, sorry if the post seems a bit vague I'm mostly nervous about the whole thing and this is my first "big" project.
Anyway thanks again for the reading this nervous ramble, looking forward to hopefully getting this thing up and running nicely.
Model F-122 Case Conversion and General Repairs.
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- Location: Canada
- Main keyboard: F-122 (Ansi Mod)
- Main mouse: Logitech M570
- Favorite switch: Capacitive Buckling Spring
- fohat
- Elder Messenger
- Location: Knoxville, Tennessee, USA
- Main keyboard: Model F 122-key terminal
- Main mouse: Microsoft Optical Mouse
- Favorite switch: Model F Buckling Spring
- DT Pro Member: 0158
wcass created the original version, and still the best.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=45 ... #msg939658
It is imperfect, but works pretty well. The "spline" (or whatever you want to call it) in the F case is kind of a clunky concept, but marrying the metal to the plastic must have seemed like something that called for an extra piece at the time.
A broken F case can be repaired, I showed a good strong repair in my guide:
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=48 ... msg1048948
But it is not an invisible repair, so if you do something like that, you will probably want to paint the case later.
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=45 ... #msg939658
It is imperfect, but works pretty well. The "spline" (or whatever you want to call it) in the F case is kind of a clunky concept, but marrying the metal to the plastic must have seemed like something that called for an extra piece at the time.
A broken F case can be repaired, I showed a good strong repair in my guide:
https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=48 ... msg1048948
But it is not an invisible repair, so if you do something like that, you will probably want to paint the case later.
It can be connected to a new computer with this code (and a Leanardo device) :
https://github.com/kpishere/yakt122
https://github.com/kpishere/yakt122
- Yasu0
- Location: hawaii
- Main keyboard: dull grey ibm selectric
- Main mouse: vertical ergonomic old man mouse
- Favorite switch: unicomp m, spring and rubber in perfect harmony.
I have naught to contribute to the case swap.. but there are some good plastic repair products out there. I have used plasti-fix on NLA 80's sport bike fairing repairs with excellent results. If the swap doesn't work out I would give that a shot on the old case. It tends to work beautifully on this type of plastic these cases are made of.